El Cap Report 06/12/08

ElCap Report 6/12/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo… Well it was a beautiful and ugly day all in one here at the bridge. The weather was wonderful and there were many climbers hanging out at the bridge. For a lot of the day we had a great time watching as new action unfolded on the Cap. However, around 1pm a young climber who had just fixed on the Trip came up to me very upset and told me he had seen a body, at the base of the face, of someone who had fallen off the cliff. I talked to him for a few moments and then called 911. Rangers were immediately dispatched to the scene and the lad was interviewed and the location of the body ascertained. You can imagine how we all felt here at the bridge. It was like someone had sucker punched you in the stomach. Speculation was rampant of course. The young climber was quite upset and somewhat confused as to exactly what he saw. Was it a climber, a base jumper, a hiker? No one knew of course and all sorts of theories were proposed. Fortunately our SAR and LEO’s are the best in the business and knowing that it was in their hands and that a full and through investigation would follow was, in a way, a relief. But for several hours it was a grim scene here.

 

El Cap Report 06/11/08

ElCap Report 6/11/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo… very nice day here today. Perfect weather once again. Unfortunately, there was little action on the Captain to keep the interest high. So most of the day was spend just hanging around in the shade and talking shit with other loungers. The Tourons were thick as ticks on a dogs ear. And, to compound the problem, one of our “newbee” Colorado lads, you know the one, was answering the dreaded Touron question, “Are there any climbers up there?” With “why yes there are!” Instead of “No, not at this time.” Thus making them stop in their tracks and start a little game of “explain to me everything you know about climbing and show me all the climbers on the rock through that wonderful telescope.” When the Tourons departed, the lad received a through tongue lashing in the proper way to deal with Tourons at the bridge. Next time his mouth will be duct taped closed and he will be tied to a nearby tree! Today’s report is brought to you by Amanda, Lee Cossey’s fiancé, who was nice enough to bring me some healthy food for lunch and faithfully stay to watch “her man” even though he was doing nothing but sitting on a ledge most of the afternoon. Today’s Report.

 

El Cap Report 06/10/08

 ElCap Report 6/10/08

By Tom Evans

Yo! Man this was one sweet day here in the big valley. The action has heated up on the Cap and the scene at the bridge was just all fun today. Since it is Tuesday the Touron population is down from the weekend. You have once again missed the perfect late spring day here. Temps…. Perfect…. Sky …. Clear…. The Cap… Brilliant… the Bridge rats… doing the bridge lieback all day! The beer was free, the food was free, the laughs were many. The Posse was in full force and there were loads of climbers just relaxing and having a good time. Hell, we even allowed the young Colorado climbers to hang with us, not to mention the heroes of recent ascents of the Cap who were here to try to extend their, “basking in the glory” time. Several have passed the usual one day limit on basking, but they continue to glow in victory anyway. As you probably know, if you are successful on ElCap you get a full day to receive congratulations and ego massage. But if you do the walk of shame then you get crap from everyone for two weeks.

El Cap Report 06/09/08

ElCap Report 6/9/08

By Tom Evans

Yo! SWEET DAY!!!! It really was folks. Perfect temps, clear skies, cool breezes. However the Captain was nearly empty! Yep that’s right, just a few teams of climbers in this perfect weather. Why you ask? Well most topped out yesterday and there are few up to replace them. The Bridge, however, was busy with people most of the day. Today’s report is brought to you by Zander, who came by with the Beer, and hung out for a long time watching the few climbers on the wall. So here it comes, direct from Dead Bird ledge on Zodiac to you… Today’s ElCap Report..

El Cap Report 06/08/08

ElCap Report 6/8/08

By Tom Evans

Alright, listen up desk jockeys and cubicle geeks… this is the shit from the main Bridge Rat here at the scene of the action on the Cap. Perfect day here with masses of climbers hanging out. I guess it is Sunday, as all the puff daddy café rats suddenly left from the café this morning around the time church starts! They all returned red eyed from singing those hymns and praying so hard, I suppose. Anyway, it was nice down at the bridge even though the action on the Captain was somewhat abbreviated. So here is the report for today brought to you by a couple of smoking hot climber girls from Santa Cruz who happened by after a climb to look through the scope. They didn’t stay long in spite of the efforts of Lucho, “the Lover“, and Dave, “the Bone“, Turner’s best efforts to entice them to remain.

El Cap Report 06/07/08

ElCap Report 6/7/08

By Tom Evans

Yo. Nice day here for a Saturday. Great weather, nice folks, heroes down from the Cap and not too many Tourons. Unfortunately the controlled burn was not quite out in Foresta and after noon the skies got kind of hazy. I have the show to get ready for tonight so this will be to the point. Brought to you today by Lori who worried all day yesterday about her man Tony and friend Clay and in the end it was all for naught. So here it comes direct as the Direct on the Dome, to you, now..

El Cap Report 06/06/08

ElCap Report 6/6/0

By Tom Evans

Ok… here it is …. I just got back from the exhibition of climbing photos and museum artifacts that Ken Yeager has put together. Nice little party to kick off the showing. Lots of climbers in evidence. Many of the “Old guys” were there too and it was nice for a “never was” striving to become a “has been” to get the chance to mingle with greatness. A good time was had by all…. Many thanks to Ken for putting on this event. A beautiful day at the bridge it was too. Perfect conditions brought out a lot of folks. The action on the Big Stone was good too.

El Cap Report 06/05/08

ElCap Report 6/5/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo.. Nice day here today, low winds and clear skies. Unfortunately, for me and the Tourons, the Park Service has decided this is a good day for a controlled burn and by noon the ElCap area was filled with smoke and thus the visibility so reduced that pics were impossible to take. So I left early. Today’s report is brought to you by Steve Muse and entourage, who were here at the bridge to take in the sweet taste of victory! Nice going gang.

El Cap Report 06/04/08

ELCap Report 6/4/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo… got up to partly cloudy skies and very cool temps with a strong west wind this morning. Low clouds were hanging off the Dome and Cathedrals. Went down to the bridge and of course found that “MY SPOT” was taken once again… I hate it when that happens. One would think that the head bridge rat could at least keep his parking place! Anyway a stiff wind was blowing across the deck, and it was all I could do to take a few shots against its tug. Wind is the dreaded enemy of the telephoto lens. The slightest push and the pic is trash. So I fought it all day. The place was empty and would stay that way for most of the day. It was cold and the Captain was marshalling its forces against the climbers who would dare. There were people in retreat, two parties from the Nose route. So I did what I could and hung in there until around 2:30pm when I had just had enough of the jostling about. Most of the teams were bundled up but moving upward.

El Cap Report 06/03/08

ElCap Report 6/3/08

By Tom Evans

Yo… geeeeezzzzeeee.. So much going on today. Lots of climbers on the major routes with the exception of the Nose. Perfect day most of the time with high clouds and comfortable temps. The bridge was deserted for half the day and then was so crowded that you could hardly find a place to stand. Mostly it was climbers but quite a few Tourons came by too. This report is brought to you today by Gene who was up from Modesto late in the day sporting a limp from a fall he took on the trail serving as a crash pad for Steve Muse! Anyway I have so many images to process tonight I may never get to bed so I figure I had better get this Report done now, so here it is!

El Cap Report 06/02/08

ElCap Report 6/02/08

By Tom Evans

Yo… very nice day here with warm temps and a nice breeze. The Nose was completely empty below Camp 5 and I assume anyone above got off today. The other routes were busy with the SE Face getting the bulk of the attention. So without further ado here is the report you have been waiting to read all day. It is brought to you by one, Dean Potter, who’s VW station wagon cut me off at the lodge this morning… the lad looked in a hurry, perhaps late for a Monday morning meeting of the Valley safety committee. Today’s ElCap report, in color, with all the slander you expect from the Sultan of Slander himself, ElCap-pics…

El Cap Report 06/01/08

ElCap Report 6/01/08

 By Tom Evans

Yo… lots of action on the Captain today with Tommy and Beth doing their thing. Photographers hanging all over the route shooting every move. Large crowd of meadow watchers too. I would have gone out west to see better myself but I had things to do at the Bridge. Things like shooting the many “regular” climbers on the routes of their choice. You see, those hot dog photographers aren’t interested in you my dedicated reader. Nope, they just want the bucks and the bucks come from the climbing rags. Do Jimmy, Corey, Heinz, Linc ever come down the ropes and shoot shots of you?? Huh? No? You know why? Because to them you are just some Puke not worthy of the effort. So who does get the shots of you when you are at your limit on the route of your life? Do the climbing rags have a little drink stand set up so when you come down to the Bridge jonesin for a beer you can get one? Do the equipment makers who want your bucks offer you a chair and an ear for your story of the climb you just busted your ass to get up?? Does 5.10 send you shoes anytime you need them or do you pay full cost for yours? Do any of these people give a rodents rectum if you live or die?!! No! Nada! Nope! Well, that’s why I was not shooting the elite, big time, heroes… because I, ElCap-pics, am the guy you can trust to care about your climbs and dreams. I am the man who hands you that CD with you doing the King Swing, Salathe roof, or the Nipple pitch on Zodiac. I enjoy giving you that cold beer, hanging out with you and hearing your story. I want you to succeed and if you don’t then you have someone to commensurate with. Oh, I may give you a little poke in the ego but you know I am there for you. Plus you get all the news direct from the Captain itself… Patagonia, North Face, Alpinist? Do they give you the straight dope from the scene? I don’t think so brother! So keep that in mind when you read today’s ElCap Report, brought to you by the survivors of the wedding party at Coilers last night.

El Cap Report 05/31/08

ElCap Report 5/31/08

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Ok you made it to the Report, so now all you have to do is read it and figure out what is really going on. I will attempt to derail you with typos, bad grammar, poor spelling, and references to "insiders and local situations". If you understand everything they you can consider yourself a "local". Word has filtered through that various records are going to be attempted to be broken. Remember that all records will be reviewed and evaluated by the Bridge Rats Record Committee of which I am the chairman with the only vote! The attempt will be measured against stringent standards that have been arbitrarily set by me! Also be aware that any slander, past, present or even anticipated, directed at the committee or its worthy chairman will be utilized in evaluating your request for a record authentication!! With that thought in mind here is today's report brought you in the sweet 4WD van of Mike Ousley... So splash some water on your face and pinch your cheeks and pay attention because I'm not going to write this twice. Today’s Report

El Cap Report 05/30/08

Yo.. worker rats on the treadmill of consumerism... you missed another good one here in the Ditch. Sunny skies, cool temps, mild breezes here at the bridge. Up on the Big Stone the climbers were raging! All the way from the East Butt to Lurking Fear the routes are filling up... we counted 18 parties we could see and that didn't include anything "out West". So it takes a man at the scene who knows the rock and what is important on each route, and not some wantabe bridge rat who gets all his dope from the shuttlebus driver who talked to the bus boy in the cafe after he overheard a cafe rat after a Joint Chiefs of Staff meeting at the Office. You have come to the home of information and misinformation. Brought to you today by my man Erik "Nanook" Sloan, who took some time today to hang at the bridge and go over how to post pictures on the report. This will add to your enjoyment of the report and serve as a more factual accounting of my gross extrapolations! Remember I am in command of the gateway to adventure. So without further fanfare... hang on tight, cinch up your harness, tie in tight because you are in for a rough ride on the Captain itself....

El Cap Report 05/29/08

ElCap Report 5/29/08

By Tom Evans

Yo... yeah that's right... the weather has broken for the better and they say for 10 days no less. So as you can imagine there was a rush to the base of the Cap and fistfights broke out on Sickle Ledge for position in line. Beautiful, cool, sunny weather with a nice breeze to sway the tall pines. Had a good time at the bridge today as some of the regulars hung out and a few "new" regulars too. Today’s report is brought to you by the cute young hottie who asked if she could look through my camera after I had told some other Tourons it was off limits.... "of course my dear, what would you like to see?" I responded! So kick it back, knock it down, hang it out because here is the news of the day straight from the Captain himself..

El Cap Report 05/28/08

Yo....Ok... it poured buckets last night, washing out the dreams and aspirations of many a climbing team. Still unstable weather in the Valley of Light. In spite of all the rain several teams hit the wall climbing and are continuing in the rain. The SE Face is seeing all the action at the moment. Around 2 pm today a big cell burst upon the ElCap area and the bridge rats blew out of here like shit from a goose. So be warned... if you have plans then make adjustments... be sure to bring some bubble bath, rubber duckies, and a shower cap cause you will need them

El Cap Report 05/27/08

Yo.. still the weather threatens here in the valley. Some teams are just going up anyway, especially those on the SE Face of the Captain. I know you have heard various reports of things going on ... the Cap generates a lot of talk and some of it is not quite accurate. So what do you do to find the real dope on all the dopes on the wall? That’s right pukes, you wait for the ElCap report so you can get the real stuff, not second hand information from some puff daddy cafe rat.

El Cap Report 05/26/08

Ok.. I'm back. Was gone a couple days when my girlfriend Mara, Queen of the Bridge, suffered a heart attack. Fortunately there was no real damage done and we went to Modesto to get her about 12,000 tests. Most were good and not to worry.. the grill has its commander back today! Still wet weather here and the rats have swarmed inside to the warmth and protection of the Cafe, where much leering at attractive members of the opposite sex was taking place along with a healthy dose of slander directed toward all not present and some that were. I managed to extricate myself and head for the bridge before things got too physical between James and Lucho who were fighting over a swooped half eaten piece of toast.

El Cap Report 05/24/08

ElCap Report 5/24/08

By Tom Evans

Man the life boats!! Screw the women and children, its every man for himself!! Total rain soaking here today.. low clouds.. every one is holding up in the Cafe. I expect some of my more creative “cafe rats” to write a ElCafe report from there sometime today. Fortunately the wall emptied out yesterday with several top-outs and fixers delaying the start of new projects. I didn't go down to the Captain today, as I have a feeling I wouldn’t be able to see it anyway, as the clouds are just off the deck here today.

El Cap Report 05/23/08

ElCap Report 5/23/08
By Tom Evans

Break out the Gortex, head for the Cafe, get the laundry done, catch up on your email... rain in the valley today but not steady. The Cap cleared off like the rats off the Titanic! The bridge was cold and damp today. Folks wandered through on the way to hiking loads to the base of the Cap. Good day for that! There was a team on the nose hauling to the top of Sickle. The other teams all bailed including the AAC belay testing unit. All down safely. All the teams near the top yesterday made the top and all are down save the Brits who are staying on Long ledge on the Salathe for some reason.

Syndicate content