ElCap Report

Welcome to the ElCap Report website.  Below you will find the reports I have written for the past several climbing seasons in Yosemite.  I use a 500mm and a 600mm lens for the images you will see below.  Many of the reports were written before I was able to post images, so don't expect to see images with all the reports.  Originally the reports were done on Supertopo.com so you will find references to that site in the writings.  I started this site in late April of 2009 and have been pleased with the interest you readers have shown.  Website design and operation by Chris Falkenstein of El Portal, CA.  Many thanks Chris!!

IF YOU SEE ANY SPAM IN THE COMMENTS SECTIONS PLEASE DO NOT CLICK ON IT AS IT ONLY ENCOURAGES THE BASTARDS!

DISCLAIMER: 

THESE REPORTS ARE THE MUSINGS OF AN OBSERVER WHO IS FAR FROM THE ACTION AND ANY RELATION TO THE TRUTH IS THE MEREST OF COINCIDENCE.  SOME OF WHAT IS WRITTEN IS SIMPLY  A FABRICATION, WRITTEN TO MAKE THE STORY "BETTER".  SO DON'T TAKE THIS STUFF TOO SERIOUSLY.  IT IS MEANT AS ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE MOST PART ALTHOUGH I DO TRY TO GET THE CLIMBING FACTS RIGHT.  THESE REPORTS ARE WRITTEN FOR CLIMBERS SO DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU, A NON-CLIMBER, DON'T GET THE TERMINOLOGY.  THIS REPORT IS IN NO WAY "OFFICIAL" AND IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE OPINION OF ANY GOVERMENTAL OR PRIVATE AGENCY.  ALL CONTENT IS STRICTLY MY OPINION.

Read and enjoy the exploits of the climbers who take on El Capitan.  They are a diverse group with a common bond and each has a unique story to tell.

Many thanks to those who have made a donation to the site... all donations are really appreciated no matter the amount!  It is for all of you who read the reports, and for the climbers who are in them, that I spend the many hours it takes to keep this thing going. If you want to read about my life then click on the "About Tom Evans" box above.

A new feature of the site is the Photo Gallery above.  If you just want to see some pics from 2009 then click on this box or click on any images in the thumb nails grouped on the left of the page, or the Monthly Archive for April 2010.   Be sure to click on "original" to see a larger image of the shot.  Enjoy!!

Best wishes,  Tom Evans

  The "read more" for this section will give you additional information about getting pictures and processing, and comments.

ElCap Report:Special Edition report on the new "Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide".

Special Edition: ElCap Report on new Yosemite Bigwalls Guide Book.
By Tom Evans

Yo… I am having a great winter thus far but I wanted to take a moment to make you aware of the new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide.  Erik Sloan and Roger Putnam have gone to great lengths to put this guide together for all of us to use and enjoy.  They are trying to raise the funds to have the book published by May 2014.  They have over 300 big wall topos, diagrams, history, and photos in this book of totally up to date information.
They need YOUR help to get to their goal of $20,000.  Go to the website linked below and read about what you can do to help.  It is a good deal for you and them.  I have personally donated money and pre-ordered a book myself… so I totally recommend it to you!

ElCap Report 10/02/13 Special Shutdown Edition

ElCap Report 10/02/13  Special Shutdown Edition.

By Tom Evans

Yo… Things are getting weird here now.  There is a ranger check-point on the road at camp 4.  They stop you and tell you that if you leave and do not have a nps sticker or employee card that you will not be able to return once you drive past that check-point.  Another check-point is at the EC crossover.  Everyone must be gone by 3pm tomorrow.  I have a site in camp 4 tonight and will be attending an impromptu “last night” party there.  I can’t go down to the Bridge to check on those on the wall who may be of interest to you, so this will be the last report until the government grows up and stops playing childish politics.

ElCap Report 10/01/13

ElCap Report 10/1/13

By Tom Evans

Yo…Fortunately the Government can’t yet control the weather!  Perfect day for another NOSE RECORD!!!  Read about it below.  The government shutdown is having a huge impact here in Yosemite.  If nothing is done we all have to be out of here on Thursday at 3pm.  Many of the shutdown regulations, now in force, are pretty stupid, even for the park service, normally known for illogical, ill thought out regs.  However, to their credit, most of those kind are being ignored.  An example is.. you cannot stop at a turn out, to look at the view, or take a photo.  Another is that you can’t go out for a morning walk/hike.  Anyway, we all, park service included, are hoping for a quick resolution.  In-park and local business are losing a ton of money each day this shutdown goes on. 

ElCap Report 9/30/13

ElCap Report 9/30/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Today was perfect for climbing on ElCap, with 80% cloud cover in the morning, dropping to 50% later in the day.  In the forecast are eight sunny days, of 70 degree weather.  Lots of action on the Cap with a record number of shots on this report.  So check your knots, clip into the first piece, and get out on the lead with Capt. Tom watching every move.

ElCap Report 9/29/13

ElCap Report 9/29/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… It was another beautiful day here in big wall heaven.  Lots of interesting routes are getting attention.  The Nose is essentially empty now that the ladies are done … SETTING A NEW WOMAN’S SPEED RECORD, THIS MORNING!!  More about that below.  Many Bigs have shown up to climb on the Captain… Gerberding, Trotter, Caldwell, Leary, Smith-Gobat, Sharma, Cecil, Hillary, Harding…the list goes on!!  Do they know something you don’t?  Yes!!  They know that this is the time to get it on with the Captain…now, you know too!

ElCap Report 9/28/13

ElCap Report 9/28/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… It was an absolutely spectacular day here!  The Nose and Salathe saw most of the action today and most of the other routes were standard fare.  It is high season on El Capitan, so if you are coming to climb the big stone, now is the time.  I would go on and on with the usual spray but I have been slowly running out of energy these past few days and I sure need to get some rest.  So……

ElCap Report 9/27/13

ElCap Report 9/27/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. The weather continues to be sunny but with a chilling wind up high and down below.  Lots of action on the Nose and Salathe.

We had a new mixed team speed record on the Nose and I will show several shots below. 

The last night of shows are going on tonight so I will cut to the chase so I can get to bed at some reasonable time tonight.

I also wanted to mention that Jim Bayer, if you didn’t read about it in a previous report, became the oldest person to solo ElCap by virtue of his recently completed Lost in America solo.  He was 57 years 11months at the time.  Congratulations to Jim!

ElCap Report 9/26/13

ElCap Report 9/26/13
By Tom Evans

Yo… Sunny, windy, and cold on the Captain today.  Lots of action, scattered around the cliff, in spite of the conditions.  Saturday is forecast to be the start of warmer weather.  I spent the shooting day in the EC Meadow shooting in windy and comfortable conditions.  So drop what you are doing and come along, up to the big stone, where the puffy’s were out and the ropes blew east.

ElCap Report 9/25/13

ElCap Report 9/25/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… The weather and a mishap on the Nose are the news of the day.  It was unseasonably cold, with high winds today and the forecast rain is yet to appear.  Climbers in the wind prone areas were in expedition puffy’s all day while those in protected areas were comfortable with T-shirts.  We are expecting some nicer weather within the next couple of days.  The Nose is empty of teams wanting to climb to the top.

ElCap Report 9/24/13

ElCap Report 9/24/13

By Tom Evans

Yo…Nice day here but some clouds floated by later in the day, forerunners of some rain tomorrow afternoon I hear.  Not a lot of different routes being done on the great rock… mostly… you know the one… the King!  The Facelift is on now and the first program is tonight so this will be short and sweet.

ElCap Report 9/23/13

ElCap Report 9/23/13

By Tom Evans

Yo…We had another beautiful day here in Yosemite.  Lots of action of ElCap, so you will be seeing many pics on today’s Report.  The air was clear but surprisingly turbulent in the afternoon.  Remember, the Facelift starts tomorrow so get out here and pick up all that stuff that shouldn’t be on the ground.  We are expecting a big turnout this year.

ElCap Report 9/22/13

ElCap Report 9/22/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… We had a crystal clear day here in Yosemite.  Yesterday’s storm came and was gone by midnight.  It was strong enough to force several teams off the wall and make things interesting for those left on.  However, all the crews up there seemed ok today and moved steadily along.  Cool lighting made for some great shots all day long… so saddle up and ride high with old Capt. Tom. 

ElCap Report 9/21/13

ElCap Report 9/21/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… I got up this morning to clear skies and figured the bet I had with Blake Burwell, that there would be no rain today, was safe.  I cruised down to the Cap to do my daily shooting and secured a good spot in the meadow.  Soon clouds started streaming in from the south west and soon the sky was overcast and had a bad look to it.  I had fun shooting as a cloudy day is the best to get details without high contrast shade and sun.  About 1:30pm it really started looking grim so I made a dash for the Bridge and shortly thereafter the sky opened up and it has been pouring ever since.  I am afraid to even go to my tent and am holed up here in the Mt. Room Bar, doing the Report.  Camp 4 will be a swamp of wet misery.. oh the humanity!!

ElCap Report 9/20/13

ElCap Report 9/20/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Today, climbing continued on ElCap under very windy conditions.  The wind blew pretty hard from 10:30 to about 3pm today at the Bridge and one can only assume it was howling up higher.  However, I don’t think it caused any problems.  Tomorrow they are calling for a fair chance of rain, which would be very welcomed at this point. 

The leaves on Maples and Oaks are starting to turn now, but not like we want.  It seems the leaves are rapidly turning brown and then falling off the trees.  Not good!  The Sugar Maple, by the Chapel, is suffering the same fate thus far.

ElCap Report 9/19/13

ElCap Report 9/19/13

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Beautiful weather continues to send the crews marching to the Captain.  Lots of action on the Nose, but not much else.  I had a shot of Joe fixing the brakes on my van yesterday and hear that one can’t legally fix cars in the Valley.  I’m not sure if it is true, but you can see what a problem it could cause, so use the local garage for work requiring removing or replacing parts. 

The Face Lift is coming in a week or so and we would like all the help we can get to clean up the park.  Great entertainment is on hand with the premier showing of the film, “Assault on ElCap” kicking off the event.  If you have ever been to a Face Lift then you know it is a lot of fun and valuable prizes will be given away.

ElCap Report 9/18/13

ElCap Report 9/18/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Cooler today with some high clouds.  The Cap had a fair number of climbers on it but could hold a whole lot more.  That means that all you “Real” climbers should plan on hitting it soon.  I need to get some sleep do I will dispense with the normal bull crap and get right to the Report.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

ElCap Report 9/17/13

ElCap Report 9/17/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Spectacular day today with blue bird skies!  The action on the Captain is slacking off so all you “real wall climbers” get your butts out here.  The clock is ticking and I’m only getting older!  Tons of folks at the Bridge today and Erik Sloan hung in there, doing his usual good job.  In the early afternoon some Touron asked me a question (oh the humanity!) and I automatically went into my teaching mode, explaining about camming units and protection… after I realized what I had done, Erik asked if I was all right!  Old habits die hard!  Not my job anymore!!  These days I just hand off everyone to Erik or Roger and go about shooting!

ElCap Report 9/16/13

ElCap Report 9/16/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Great weather is drawing them to the Captain now.  Clear skies and mild days are the hallmark of the fall season, so come on out and enjoy the mid September days.  I got the website sorted out with my site manager, Chris Faulkenstein, this afternoon after shooting and we think it is working just right. 

Sorry about the small print but the program will not allow any different right now... we are working on it!

Today’s ElCap Report…Written just for you..unique in all the world!

ElCap Report 9/15/13

ElCap Report 9/15/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Ok the Report is back and all your anxiety was for nothing!  Rumors abound around the Valley about my demise, but the Report lives on.  Still some smoke in the Valley from time to time but nothing we can’t deal with.  I arrived on the 12th of Sept. to see a cliff that was not getting much action but now things are on the move.  This report will cover the last 4 days, today included.  So take a break Cupcakes, Cubicle Pukes, Internet Climbers, and get ready for today’s report … ditch the kids, the spouse, the pets… because this is your time to head up on ElCap with old Captain Tom!

Syndicate content