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Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 04/23/2009 - 01:44
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Welcome to the ElCap Report website. Below you will find the reports I have written for the past several climbing seasons in Yosemite. I use a 500mm and a 600mm lens for the images you will see below. The early reports were written before I had my own website, so don't expect to see images with the early reports. Originally the reports were done on Supertopo.com so you will find references to that site in the writings. I started this site in late April of 2009 and have been pleased with the interest you readers have shown. Website design and operation by Chris Falkenstein of El Portal, CA. Many thanks Chris!!
IF YOU SEE ANY SPAM IN THE COMMENTS SECTIONS PLEASE DO NOT CLICK ON IT AS IT ONLY ENCOURAGES THEM!
DISCLAIMER:
THESE REPORTS ARE THE MUSINGS OF AN OBSERVER WHO IS FAR FROM THE ACTION AND ANY RELATION TO THE TRUTH IS THE MEREST OF COINCIDENCE. A SMALL PORTION OF WHAT IS WRITTEN IS SOMETIMES SIMPLY A FABRICATION, WRITTEN TO MAKE THE STORY "BETTER". DON'T TAKE THIS STUFF TOO SERIOUSLY. IT IS MEANT AS LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT, FOR THE MOST PART, ALTHOUGH I DO TRY TO GET THE CLIMBING FACTS RIGHT. THESE REPORTS ARE WRITTEN FOR CLIMBERS, SO DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU, A NON-CLIMBER, DON'T GET THE TERMINOLOGY. THIS REPORT IS IN NO WAY "OFFICIAL" AND IN NO WAY REFLECTS THE OPINION OF ANY GOVERNMENTAL OR PRIVATE AGENCY. ALL CONTENT IS STRICTLY MY OPINION. IF YOU DON'T WISH TO BE MENTIONED IN THE REPORT, OR PHOTOGRAPHED, JUST SEND ME AN EMAIL (CLICK "CONTACT" ABOVE) TO THAT EFFECT, OR COME BY THE BRIDGE, AND LET ME KNOW AND YOUR PRIVACY WILL BE RESPECTED. NO ONE IS REQUIRED TO READ THE REPORT.. IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT THEN DON'T READ IT.
Read and enjoy the exploits of the climbers who take on El Capitan. They are a diverse group with a common bond and each has a unique story to tell.
Many thanks to those who have made a donation to the site... all donations are really appreciated, no matter the amount! The costs of doing all this far exceeds the amount of donations received, but without donations, the photography and Report would not be possible. It is for all the readers of the report, and the climbers in it, that I spend time and money to keep this thing going.
Best wishes, Tom Evans
The "read more" for this section will give you additional information about getting pictures and processing, and comments.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Mon, 09/25/2023 - 13:27
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ElCap Report Farewell Tour 9/24/2023
By Tom Evans
Yo.. We had a beautiful day here with some action on the Captain. The facelift ended today and that should free up more climbers to get on ElCap. The SE face is starting to see some action a new team fixed 3 while I was shooting. There is a solo on South Seas to Pacific Ocean route (SSPO). Also, the strong team of Hudon and Richards fixed on the Sea today. Several teams are very soon to start on the SE face. So stay tuned Cubicle Pukes or you will miss some big ascents, about to happen.
Today’s ElCap Report.. Written just for you.. Unique in all the World!
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 09/22/2023 - 14:22
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ElCap Report Farewell Tour for 9/21/2023
By Tom Evans
Yo… I arrived here in Yosemite 9/18/2023 and have been busy shooting. The weather has been warm and the skies clear… until today when a thunderstorm blew in early this afternoon. My friend Tony Yeary and I were shooting from the meadow and were sent scurrying for our vehicles. The downpour continued until about 4pm. As you have probably heard, this is the last season for the Report. I am no longer able to meet the demands it makes on me. I will try to post a few reports as the season develops so stay tuned. The season is shaping up to be a good one. This report will cover the first several days of shooting.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 10/29/2022 - 23:35
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ElCap Report 10/29/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo… West winds have carried a new weather pattern our way, surely a harbinger of doom for the Fall climbing season. Some of the crew have all ready departed for the warmer environs of the Creek and JT. Rain and snow are on the way by mid-week and I too will be beating a retreat, on Monday morning early, but for home instead of desert crags. Lot of top-outs these days as the season closes out. The miserable scammer pukes, finished their hoax-climb after skipping the first 10 pitches in favor of the fixed lines to heart ledge. All are safe. The SF Chronical is publishing an article soon, refuting this blatant publicity stunt… check it out on line and possibly in print.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 10/27/2022 - 16:32
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ElCap Report 10/27/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo.. It looks like I will be staying a while longer, as weather permits. So, ditch the cubicle, rack up, tune in, and ride along with Capt. Tom as we explore all things ElCap. Lots of action on not so many routes. The Big Lie is in its latter stages now as the guides huff and puff and the imposters chat and lie about waiting for the essential ropes to be fixed for them to jug. Joe Baker, tried to hire YMS guides to take them up but YMS wanted no part of it... so they are using "pirate guides" to haul them up. It is getting late this morning in the Café so I will stop jawing and get this report out to you.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Tue, 10/25/2022 - 16:49
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ElCap Report 10/25/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Cool weather has finally arrived… a month late! The ElCap free climbing hopefuls are coming out of hiding now and heading for FreeRider, and Golden Gate. Drop-ins are working the higher environs of the Great Rock. The fixed lines are reported to be in good shape now… but always be ready to use your own ropes for these raps, so pack them near the top of your kit for easy access on the descent down the East Ledges. The Big Hoax is supposed to start climbing today. CNN reports that Joe Baker says that his kid, Sam, is a “world class climber,” at the age of 8 years old!! CNN, of course, and other media are buying into this lie. Would a world class climber choose to jug fixed lines instead of actually climbing the rock itself?? Of course not!! The parents of this child are shamelessly exploiting this little boy, exposing him to a dangerous cliff where 29 “actual climbers” have perished and countless have been injured. Why would a parent do this when most would make climbing ElCap a long-term goal, involving training, body development, years of experience, and other smaller wall climbs, before sending him out on ElCap. What is the hurry that justifies doing this now, instead of when he is not a small child as he is now? What is so important? I will tell you what…. A supposed “World Record”, is so important for the parent’s greed for publicity and social media fame, that they are will willing to risk the child’s life to get it. They are spraying all over any media that will listen to their lies even before the event begins. Who is advocating for the child, if the parents are not? We are! Why is our Climbing Ranger silent about this? World Class… my ass.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Mon, 10/24/2022 - 01:37
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ElCap Report 10/23/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo… The BIG RAIN promised for 12pm yesterday somehow got lost on the way to the Valley and we had a nice, partly cloudy, day that climbers sat out for the most part… waiting… waiting…. Finally, around 5pm it arrived. We had 20 minutes of pretty hard rain and then it moved off into the high country. As a result of the waiting, I ended up hanging here in the Mt. Room Bar, in my usual corner by the door, most of the day. Today, dawned bright, after a cold and damp night. Of course, the C4 ranger arrived an hour late, for some unknown reason, and 50 of us stood around, freezing our butts off. As a result, I was not at the meadow until 11am and left by two to finish installing my camp, site #1. On Zodiac, we have a team helping a man with macular degeneration, get up the route before he completely loses his eye sight. He started today. As I didn’t get much shooting the last two days, I am going to give you a lethal dose of the Atlantic Ocean Wall shots I have taken thus far.
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Sat, 10/22/2022 - 16:19
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ElCap Report 10/22/22 Special Edition: The Big Lie is back, starting soon on ElCap.
By Tom Evans
Yo…The pre-spray is already on social media. A few years back a couple, the Schnieter's, claimed their daughter was the youngest person to “climb” ElCap at the age of ten. These people, and others, with the help of climbing writer Chris Van Leuven and Outside Magazine, have perpetrated this hoax on the general media. Van Leuven has promoted the kiddie age wars, on ElCap, by writing articles for, Outside, promoting these contests. They got world-wide attention even though the children didn’t actually “climb” the rock but climbed a rope set by guides. Imagine if I, at 78 years of age, went up to the famous boulder problem, Midnight Lightning, and set up a rope that I jugged up, instead of actually climbing the rock. Then I came back to camp and claimed to be the oldest person to climb Midnight Lightning!! What would actual climbers say? I will tell you… “No man… you didn’t actually climb it… it takes skill to do that climb, and you didn’t have or demonstrate any skill, other than climbing up a rope. You never actually had to deal with the rock itself. It was not any kind of a "climb or record!”
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 10/21/2022 - 15:01
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ElCap Report 10/20/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo.. The great weather holds and free climbers gather amid clouds of chalk dust. Weekend weather looks kinda sketchy at this time, but no one knows for sure how it will shake out. The free climbing mecca, that is the South West face of the Big Stone, is drawing the slim, fit, and motivated to test their resolve and talent. Fall lighting has made this past month a real shooting pleasure for me… and hopefully for you too! So, saddle up cubicle pukes, and take the ride with old Tom, for some of the best climbs on the planet!
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Submitted by Tom Evans on Wed, 10/19/2022 - 03:56
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ElCap Report 10/18/2022
By Tom Evans
Yo… Better weather is bringing the masses to the Captain. The free climbers have set off to the routes they are going to give it all to do. Free Rider, El Corazon, and Golden Gate all have teams on them. The Nose has some regular suitors and has remained pretty open with some clusters of climbers seen in the Legs and Gray Bands. Zodiac is pretty full at the moment with wall climbers and a movie crew, that has ropes strung from the top to bottom. Maybe a good idea to take a pass on it for now. The fixed lines on the East Ledges are in very poor condition as reported to me by a team who came down just yesterday. Watch out for knots in the middle of the lines and other damage too. Be prepared to use your own ropes until someone can get up there to place new/better lines. I will keep you posted!
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