ElCap Report 6/21/09

ElCap Report 6/21/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… All right… Listen up Pukes of all stripes… this was a way sweet day to be here in the Trench.  The weather was perfect… the climbing was perfect… the bridge was chocked with perfection… and where were you?
I don’t want to hear about it… if you weren’t here, then you blew another day of your life and some of you, by the laws of statistics, don’t have too many days left to blow.  So change your plans, take a break from your consumption based existence, lie to your boss, tell your friends you are going to rehab for a few weeks and by all means …. Get your sorry ass with the program, and come to the Valley of your dreams….. Yosemite.

ElCap Report 6/20/09

ElCap Report 6/20/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… yes it is true… I am back at the throttle on the ElCap Bridge, so tie in tight, check your knots, and get psyched up for the latest news, from the most important rock on the planet.  I drove all night to get here early this morning so I could have a full day at the “office”.  The Trades are pretty full and a few climbers are venturing onto, soon to be, Trade Routes.   High clouds and moderate temperatures set the stage for a great day of climbing on the Captain.

ElCap Report 6/15/09

ElCap Report 6/15/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cloudy and on the cold side today… but no rain.  The Captain is sparsely populated now that the Korean teams have finished their routes.  The SW Face is pretty empty.  The Nose had a team going over the top and a team in the lower stove legs.  So the place is wide open to anyone with the time and the plan.  The strange spring continues. 
Today’s report is a brief one so don’t blink or you will miss it…
Today’s report…

ElCap Report 6/14/09

ElCap Report 6/14/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Wow, what a beautiful late April day we had today!  Nice, puffy clouds and intermittent sunshine make it sweet… unfortunately, the wall was nearly empty.  Two solo’s were on the starting pitches of Zodiac and OK Tony and Clay, with his son, stopped by on their way to start the Nose.  Clay’s son, Grant is just 11 but seems to have been well trained by Clay.  He did look a little concerned when I said “Son you are going to die”, the traditional good luck send off for climbers heading to ElCap.  They walked off with the two adults trying to reassure the lad that all would be well!

ElCap Report 6/13/09

ElCap Report 6/13/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Ok, so it does rain more than ten minutes in Yosemite.  The skies opened up around 12:30 pm today and it rained pretty hard but it was short in duration… short enough that I was going to poo poo it on the report.  But, around 3pm it really opened up and drenched the Captain.  However, the climbers on the SE Face continued to climb unhindered…with the exception of the Korean climbers on day 7 on LA.  They were on the third from last pitch and exposed to the elements.  They were hosed to be sure.  Still… I encourage climbers to just forget about the weather forecast and get on a route, if only just to fix a couple of pitches.  The action is getting thin on the Captain and we need replacements to head up to the front line! 

ElCap Report 6/12/09

ElCap Report 6/12/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Another killer day here in the ditch.  It was breezy and cloudy most of the day… Sweet!!  Many of the teams are getting pretty high up on the routes now and it seems that there are not many replacements.  While the forecast continues to call for 30% rain it has not happened.  These temps are making for low water consumption and higher energy levels to climb with.  Better than the weather for the usual June.  So come on out before the real summer weather arrives… you will be glad you did!

 

ElCap Report 6/11/09

ElCap Report 6/11/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Another very nice day for climbing on the Cap.  A bit windy but the right temps for free climbing on the big stone.  We still have supposed wall climbers sitting in the café waiting for the weather to have a 0% rain forecast… get over it Pukes!  Routes are being climbed every day now no matter what the chance of rain.  No more of these lame excuses dudes… WTF.. you invested hundreds of dollars in that Gortex rain gear and you lug it up the Cap just in case… so go climbing!!  Actually there are a lot of climbers on the wall now so I guess I shouldn’t complain… still it bugs me to see climbers sitting around bemoaning the weather when it is really perfect!!  If it was a normal June I guess they would be sitting around bitching about the heat!

ElCap Report 6/10/09

ElCap Report 6/10/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Brilliant (as the English like to say) climbing day here in the Trench.  Cool temps, with mostly overcast skies, make for good climbing and good photography.  This weather is far from normal and has been for weeks on end…. But that said, wall climbers are a persistent crew and not put off for long when they see a way to get the job done.  Several teams sallied forth to the big routes on the SW face of the Captain.  The Salathe still sits idle but several other routes on the face are getting some attention.  The Tourons have shown great interest in the Major Phil story and many came back today asking how his ascent was going.  More on that below.

ElCap Report 6/09/09

ElCap Report 6/9/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Sweet day here, with cool temps and no rain for a change.  The Cap was pretty busy and more teams are mounting up.  The Korean teams are doing well on the SE Face of the Captain.  The Trip and Straw teams topped out early in the day after good climbing on the routes.  We are hoping for continued good weather, as several new teams are striking out on the SW Face.

So saddle up and grab the reigns, because you are going for a ride on the Big Daddy of all the big Yosemite stones!
Today’s report is brought to you by the man himself, Dave Turner, just in from Baffin Island!  Great to have him back after a long absence. 

ElCap Report 6/08/09

ElCap Report 6/8/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… It was really nice climbing weather today… right up until 4pm when a 10 minute, tropical downpour, drenched everything in its path.  The teams on the SE Face hardly took notice but the Nose must have been pretty wet.  However, it was soon enough gone.  Still, the weather just doesn’t want it to be June and we will just have to keep dealing with it.  Zillions of Tourons continue to learn, the “real deal,” about climbing, here at the bridge, so much so that there seems to be little room for the climbers to hang out!!  But it is all good and everyone is enjoying the action on the hill.

ElCap Report 6/07/09

ElCap Report 6/07/09
By Tom Evans
Yo…. Sweet day today with no sign of rain!  It was pretty chilly but probably just right on the wall.  There were teams on the Nose but most of the action is still on the SE Face of the great rock.  The crowds were mild but several climbing friends stopped by to say hi and see what was up on the Captain.  Everyone is moving up or topping out. 
So drop what you are doing and clear your schedule because the weather is perfect and you are coming with old Tom for one more ride on the Captain.

ElCap Report 6/06/09

ElCap Report 6/06/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Sweet day here today, with cloudy skies and very cool temps.  The rain held off until very late in the day and then it was a casual shower.  The teams on the South East Face were all moving up in the shelter of the overhanging wall above.  The weather is the news here and everyone is getting a little tired of the doubt.  June where are you?  This is April stuff.
Anyway, the bridge was on and off today as the weather dictated.  The entire rock West from Mescalito is vacant, and for good reason.  But if it doesn’t rain then there is no problem, but caution is the rule of the day.
So take a break, flog the snake, and come on back to today’s ElCap report,  where you will be in the shit with all the big wall Pukes you are jonesin to be. 
Today’s ECR…
 

ElCap Report 6/05/09

ElCap Report 6/5/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Well our luck ran out with the weather today.  I heard the pitter patter on my tent, late in the night and knew the run was over. The guys on the SE Face played the smart bet and are warm and dry as the steepness has sheltered them from the rains.  However, the rain has been light, but longer in duration than those of recent times.  No big down pours have occurred thus far.  I went down to the bridge at 10am and scoped it out.  The Shield boys were breaking down their ledge as I arrived and were soon leading toward Chickenhead ledge, where they are most likely interned.  The guys on Mescalito were also out in the weather but looked cozy in their ledge and have made no move to get out and climb the two pitches to the Bismarck Ledge.

ElCap Report 6/04/09

ElCap Report 6/04/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Cold and windy here in the valley with a huge chance of rain today… but of course, no rain!  The bridge was crowded today with Tourons and climbers alike.  Nose and Salathe are still devoid of any sign of life, while most of the action continues to be on the upper east side of the SE Face.
It was very much like an October day here and everyone is wondering where all the forecast rain went.  Today’s report is brought to you by a refreshing family of German Baptists who came by the bridge and just couldn’t believe what was going on up on the Cap and on a slack line from the bridge to the edge of the river.  Everyone  seemed in great spirits today and we all had a good time.

ElCap Report 6/03/09

ElCap Report 6/03/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another great day for climbing on the Captain.  We had cloud cover all day long and for just a moment, at 2pm, it misted very briefly.  I don’t think the climbers on the Cap even knew it happened.  The Zodiac was the center of attention as the Nose and Salathe languished in disuse.  The weather continues to confound but not enforce.  The cool weather is a boon for water conservation and everyone seems to be headed up, not down.  So don’t be discouraged.  Even though the forecast is doom and gloom the reality is anything but.  I know some of you want to do the Nose and guess what?  The Nose is totally empty…. The Salathe is totally empty… The West side is completely empty.  Hell, what else can I do for you Pukes, I’ve cleared the whole SW Face of ElCap just for you, so show up or shut up!!

ElCap Report 6/02/09

ElCap Report 6/02/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… another nice day of cool and cloud… the Nose emptied out and the Zodiac filled up.  I think it wanted to rain but didn’t, just to piss off all the climbers who are sitting around bitching about the weather!  This has been a strange spring, more like early spring than early June.  I remember one day, long ago, when I was at Pratt’s camp in C4...  he looked at the skies and said to Tom Bauman, “let’s go do the Muir, this weather is perfect”.  That was a day like today.  They went and made the 3rd ascent if I recall correctly.  So… don’t take my word for it, take Chuck’s!!  Three days in a row with no real rain on the Captain. 

ElCap Report 6/01/09

ElCap Report 6/1/09
By Tom Evans
Yo.. Wow, two nice days in a row for climbing on the big stone!!  The crews have responded by heading up on the routes.  Three parties now on Zodiac, one on Virginia, 7 on the Nose, one on Mescalito, the old dads on the PO,  a team fixed on the NA, one on the Shield, and some more staging on the Salathe.  I think everyone is sick of just sitting around when it only rains a few minutes of the day.  It was great for the photography as the high clouds kept the shadows off the Captain and I could get all the rock details and climbers, normally deep shadows… Sweet!!

ElCap Report 5/31/09

ElCap Report 5/31/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… well there was no rain all day while I was at the bridge and strangely there were no climbers either.  The only action was people who were already on the wall.  There was one party on the Nose and one on SSPO.  A couple of teams with high powered climbers are headed to the Shield.  The bridge was really quiet all day.  We were expecting rain but it never came.
Today’s report is brought to you by Doug and Melissa who hung out all day. 
Today’s ECR just for you…

Zodiac:  I did see a team of two guys fixing the first late in the day.  It looked dry over there so this is a good time to get on it.

ElCap Report 5/30/09

ElCap Report 5/30/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… special day here at the gateway to adventure.  Several old timers and young hot dogs were around today for interviews with the Autry Museum staff for the exhibit being prepared there under the auspices of the Yosemite Climbing Association.  Nice weather for shooting with moderate cloud cover until there was a ripping thunderstorm and torrential down pour!  Seems as though there is a low pressure from down south to the east of us and it is sending lots of moisture our way.  These are not the normal, causal showers we come to expect at this time of year… so…. If you are thinking of a run at the Captain be warned.

ElCap Report 5/29/09

ElCap Reports 5/29/09
By Tom Evans

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