ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/9/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Fabulous weather is upon us!  The Captain is getting the attention it has been missing for a month or more.  The environs around the Nose are jammed at the moment.  Other routes are getting attention too.
So break out your shorts, tank tops, and sunglasses and come up on the Cap for the adventure of a lifetime!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The 4 man Korean team topped out this afternoon after a smooth ascent.  Never did see that cheater stick brandished!  Good on them.
Lower down another Korean team, this time from the Team Extreme Riders, was seen climbing to the end of three as I departed around 3pm.
In the middle Ryan, who had fixed 4 a couple of weeks ago, got some time off working at the Mt. Room Broiler and is solo on the route.  I saw him climb to the start of the Black Tower pitch by afternoon.
Riley reports that Karl Baba did break his arm yesterday while climbing on the route and is doing ok.

Korean climber waiting to release kit from Peanut Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Korean team low on the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortest Straw:  Neil slept in this morning and reached Peanut Ledge in early afternoon.  He could climb off if motivated enough.

Early morning on the last pitch of the Straw before it joins Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  The colorful team from yesterday bailed for the Bail of the Day!

Mescalito:  Dave, Ben and Carmen spent a comfortable night on the Bismarck Ledge and stayed there for a late breakfast.  They climbed away rapidly and were last seen just before the last pitch.  They will be off this evening after a 3 day, 2 bivy on this great route.

Lazing around on the Bismarck Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down Mike Donaldson, recent solo on Zodiac, started the route today.

NDTR:  The Austrian team bivied on ECT and were involved in the worst traffic jam I have ever seen around the Boot Flake.  They climbed away from the crowds and onto their route in early afternoon.  They are a sharp looking crew of good wall climbers.

Austrian belaying on Tribal’s first pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The King was jammed from the ground to the top all day.  I will just list some of the highlights.
Oklahoma Tony and buddy Todd flew up the route in a NIAD they dusted off in 8 hours and some change!
Mason Earle rope-soloed the route today and was passing parties right and left.  I last saw him at C5 and expect him to be off by dark.  He broke 16 hours!
The Hammond Bros were climbing to C5 as I departed and may be off after dark.
Laura Mack and Andrew Porter climbed off ECT and were headed to C4 as I departed.  She has lead every pitch I have seen thus far.  Good on her!!
Many other teams were active on the route… too many to keep track of individually.

Boot Jam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Traffic pattern around the KS.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose team on Grey Bands Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Laura and Andrew headed to C4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mason at Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Muir/3D:  It appears that a solo is on the Muir and a team of three is on the 3D.  Who are they?

Muir solo at the traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  There are supposed to be a team of 4 Spanish on the lower part of the route but I didn’t see them today.

Lurking Fear:  I did see two teams over there this afternoon.  Also an all woman team is heading up the route.

Feature of the Day:  Horsetail Falls washing old fixed lines abandoned after the rock fall last fall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:   The Bridge was crowded this afternoon with climbers and Tourons alike.  Everyone was having a good time.
On a personal note… I have decided to end the ElCap Report at the completion of the Spring season, on June 30th.  I will keep the site open for a while but deactivate it for good later.  If you want to copy reports you are in then do it soon.   I will still be at the Bridge, shooting pics as always but will not be writing the ElCap Report anymore.  To all of those of you who have supported the site, and helped out with donations after my photo equipment was stolen, I say a heart felt, “Thank You!!!”  So, enjoy these last three weeks of Reports and remember all the good times I have reported to you.  (I didn't quit after all.. Ha!)

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 9th day of June, 2011.
Later Tom Evans