ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/10/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Another great day here in Yosemite.  Big action on the great rock.  Weather seems to have stabilized but the rivers are overflowing threatening some campgrounds.  My site was part of the river last night but it retreated in the morning.  Fortunately I sleep on an air mattress!  Several stunts for TV are in the planning/production stage and I will keep you posted as I learn details.  Saddle up cowpukes and get ready for more of the best climbing on the planet in today’s ECR.

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Ryan Baker climbed into the center of the route today and was about to do the Nipple pitch as I departed.  He looks solid so far.

Ryan into the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Higher up Neil Chelton climbed off this route, done as the last part of his solo of the Shortest Straw.  This Brit showed his tenacity and toughness, in his solo of this difficult route, in awful conditions.  A job well done!!

Neil nearing the top early in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ZM:  Mark Hudon is back on the route but solo now.  He climbed to the 2nd belay as I watched this afternoon.  Pretty tough customer, for an old guy!  He is on a mission to rid the route of unnecessary heads that can be replaced with regular gear.

Mark at the 2nd belay on ZM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  I didn’t see Mike above the trees yet and expect that to happen tomorrow.  The speedy team of Ben, Dave and Carmen were down this morning at the Bridge none the worse for wear.

Tribal Rite:  The Austrians are climbing well and were on the Carrot pitch when I left.  These guys know how to climb and dress!

Austrian leader up and out early in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last light on Tribal Rite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The Nose is still jammed with climbers but most are now above the Grey Bands.  The 3 man team on 3D came over yesterday and got in line at the start of the Roof pitch.  The other teams were strung out all the way from Pancake Flake to the Summit pitch as I departed.

Didn’t I see you guys on the Boot yesterday?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slime climbing, above Camp 6 on the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Muir:  The solo, Matt Seymour, climbed from the Gray Bands onto the upper part of the route today.  He looks good and is moving right along, now on the good stuff.

  Matt, ready for better rock and climbing than the Grey Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  This mega classic has been out of commission for the past 2 weeks, due to waterfalls on the center of the route.  Sarah Land and partner Taylor are on it in a push and passed the Catalonian team at the Ear.  Good luck in the rapids!  The Catalonian team is two guys and Shino Jomoto, who was with them a couple of weeks ago when the weather caved.

Waiting on the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sarah almost done with the pitch above the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:  Several teams are on this route at the moment.  Most are invisible from my "out west" spot, as the Wood Pile is still closed.  Kate and Melissa are on it, as are several men’s teams.

Random Dude, Lurking Fear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Karl Baba came by with Zodiac partner, Riley Wyna, this morning.  He was looking pretty good in spite of a nasty fall on Zodiac a couple of days ago.  His head was chunked up and he had a black eye to complete the so called “rugged look”.  His arm is another matter.  Riley showed me the Xray and the fracture is a bad one.. A radial fracture with separation.  It looked ugly.  I offered him a Cobra but he was on the good stuff.  We all wish him a speedy recovery.
Ben, Dave and Carmen came back from their two bivy ascent of Mescalito this morning.  They looked great and headed off for the food court.

Carmen and Dave at the Bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read about Kar's accident on the following link.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1525015/accident-karl-and-riley

Karl, looking pretty dapper with his mangled face, black eye, and casted arm!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many climbers came by today to hang out or just stop to talk shit for a while.  A good time was had by all.
So that’s the way it is, for this Friday, the 10th day of June, 2011.
So long..
Captain of the Captain,
Mr. E