ElCap Report 9/30/2015

ElCap Report 9/30/15

By Tom Evans

Yo… Cloudy days and warm nights are trending here in the Valley.  Every day I would swear it is about to rain …but none falls.  The lighting is great for what I do, so there are no complaints coming from me!  Lots of climbers are on the Cap, with more to come when the weather settles down a bit.  It is a great time to try doing something in a day.  So cast off your shackles, Cubicle Pukes, pack your kit, kiss your loved ones good bye, and you will be in the gnar before you know it!

Today’s ElCap Report ..written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Two parties are working the route at the moment with the mixed team in front.

1)  The upper team's woman, Laura Ashley, is seen here making the reach to start the bolt ladder on pitch 5.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  The man, Sean Warren, got the Black Tower pitch and cruised it.  These UK folks are good climbers for sure!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Lower down, a team of two started the route and moved rapidly upward.  Here they are on the second pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  On the Trip, the “Mikes”, Mike Ierien and Mike Tupper, blasted on the route today after fixing one.  This is a long shot showing the lower regions of the area. You can just see MT leading the third pitch, and the high fixed point of the resting Austrian team.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  TOM'S "SHOT OF THE DAY!!  MT at the belay beneath the famous “Black Cat”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Sea of Dreams:  Neil Chelton and Callum Coldwell-Storry are on the route.  I suppose they figured that they should do it since “Big Andy” Kirkpatrick Sent it solo in the spring.  Neil, on the start of the second pitch, while Callum belays.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Later in the day, here is a shot of Neil finishing his pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Mescalito, Bug Wall:  Meg continues to cruise the “Bug Wall.”  I have been shooting her for several days now and I can tell you that this woman is a really good wall climber.  Her belays are so well arranged and managed that they make Hudon’s look like one of Pete’s junk shows!  She climbs with a relaxed style and efficient movements.  Yeah Meg… sending!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  The secret of her diet was on display for all to see today.  She has a giant Amazon cricket lashed to her haul bag that she munches on from time to time.  It seems to be working for her!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  PO:  High on the route now, Regan and Magda are in the finishing stages of the route.  Off tonight or tomorrow for sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  On the Nose, the NIAD team of Mark Smiley and Leah Papajohn, were well on their way by the time I arrived in the morning.  Here Leah is leading the pitch into camp 5 while Mark is thinking about other things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Mark leading the pitch off Camp 5 in early afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another NIAD team was not far behind them.  They are Greg and Dana from SLC.  They climbed well today.

13)  Lower down a couple of teams were wandering about.. some for fun..some fixing.. some dreaming.  Dolt run.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  El Corazon:  A German mixed team is working the route while based at Gray Ledges.  This is the first crux above the ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Salathe:  After blistering assaults, the last few days, the route was nearly empty now.  I did get this team of three at Sous le Toit ledge this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16)  Since I was out west for an hour this afternoon I was able to get this shot of the belay at the start of the 4th pitch on Lurking Fear.  Window Pane Flake is in the foreground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17)  It has been a strange fall thus far.  The oak tree leaves seem to be turning brown rather than yellow.  Pretty dull viewing these days.  I did stop by my favorite tree, the Sugar Maple, across from the chapel.  It looked old and weak, but is turning out some colorful leaves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18)  Sugar Maple.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Rumors of a PTPP expedition up the Cap were confirmed today by the arrival of 12 Mongolian Porters who have been employed to carry the several thousands of pounds of kit necessary to sustain a typical Pete climb.  They will be working day and night until their INS permit expires.  Bets are being taken covering ever possible contingency.  Stay tuned, it may be over before it begins.

So that’s the way it is, on this cloudy Wednesday, the 30th day of September, 2015.

Capt. Tom