ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/28/11
By Tom Evans

Yo.. The beautiful days continue and you are probably somewhere else… now, is that what you really want?  Cubicle Pukes… I know you have to keep the world running, and we all depend on you, but come on man… take a break!  You do get vacation days… right?  You are damn near rich, because of all the work and long hours you have put in for “The Man”.  So come on out and enjoy great days that you will never forget… you will soon enough forget the individual days you worked…NO?  So they don’t matter… only the good days matter in the end.

Hang with the Crew at the Bridge and talk shit and slander the climbers on the wall… smoke some cheap cigars (I have a supply) and drink some Cobras (you bring those)… and you will go back to work a new, renewed person  working at 10 times the efficiency you formerly did… Makes sense doesn’t it?!!  The answer is YES!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The new solo, Dan Mottenger, was up and at it today and climbed smoothly to the Black Tower about the time I departed at 3pm.  The White Circle, with all its great climbing, awaits.

Continental Drift:  According to the topo all the difficulties have been passed and there is just one pitch left for the guys tomorrow.  Summit day coming up…. Showers, beer, a big meal, and talking smack at the Bridge for a day of basking in the glory!  The climb has turned out to be harder than expected and will go down as one of the more controversial in recent memory.  We await the spray!
1)  The Show leaving town.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PO Wall:  Two new contestants have ponyed up and were out fixing the third I hear.  I didn’t get a look at them due to trees obstructing the view.  I have requested that 12, large pines be removed to clear the view from the Bridge.  The NPS doesn’t seem to get it… come on man!!!… there are zillions of trees in the park but only one view from the Bridge!  Which is REALLY more important?  My view of course!

Mescalito:  Regan finished the long corner today and was hauling to the start of the Molar Traverse this afternoon… guess I will have to get out early to shoot him on the pendulum…ugh!
2)  Regan on the traverse to the Molar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Regan back to the belay later in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Sweet shots today as the boys climbed the beautiful pitches to the Harding Roof and beyond.  I’m thinking they will make a run for the top late in the evening.
4)  Long view of Harding Roof area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  New Dawn climbers, Alex and Ryan, up close.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Two teams made the top in early afternoon today.  Way below two teams of two climbed to ECT and continued late into the day.  One did the KS and the other was climbing above Texas when I departed.
6)  Great Roof, early morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Not the usual way to do the King Swing, but they pulled it off without a hitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Water break, Texas Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  A team of 4 Swiss climbers materalized on top of the Groove pitch this morning.  I suppose they climbed over the Roof and higher late yesterday, when I was not there.  They used a system of two leaders and two haulers that kept someone  on the sharp end of the rope all the day.  They made good progress and may just continue to the end.  However, Chickenhead ledge is a tempting place to park for the night!

Salathe:  The Salathe continues to be jammed.  Mayan and Sean Villanueva, climbed to the Block, all free, and are going for the Headwall in the morning.  Morning is the best time to give it a go as the sun gets over there rather late… unfortunately, for me and you, pics shot into deep shade really suck… so…hope for clouds tomorrow!
The South African team climbed around the Roof and continued on Freerider.  I don’t know much about their climb yet.  Lower down a team of three climbed past the Boulder Problem and a mixed team was seen climbing the Monster around 2pm.  Below the Ear a couple of teams were on the move…. Impossible to keep track of anyone in that mob over there.

9)  Rodeo Boy, Clinton,  ElCap Spire...Gitty Up!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Early light, high on Salathe Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Excalibur:  The team climbed right alongside of the Salathe crews and seem to be getting it done.  Who are those guys?

Lurking Fear:  I did see a team of two climb to the Window Pane Flake but couldn’t see anyone higher, but my view is seriously restricted.

In other news:  Two YOSAR rescues last night and into the morning.  A climber took a huge plunge off ELL on the Column and hurt his leg and back.  The team managed to make it to the top where a chopper hauled them off.  A YOSAR team was with them on top for most of the night.

 
On Higher Spire a climber fell and hurt an arm but not as seriously as first thought and was successfully helped down the slope and the incident was over by 2am.
Busy days around here.

The AAC is running an international climbers meeting here and so far it has gone quite well.  Dave Turner is honchoing the program and reports that all climbers are having fun.  Dave was so excited that he drove off with some climbers today and forgot to take his trusty and loyal dog, Jacks, with him.  The dog was frantic!  Dave showed up after having to drive the loop back to the Bridge… everyone was relieved, but mostly Jacks!

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 28th day of September, 2011.
Later ECP’s