ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/26/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… This was the kind of day that climbers come to Yosemite for in the Fall.  It was perfect!  A lot happened today and it is very late (10:30pm) as I type this report.  So I will have to move along.
 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Jay the solo climber stayed in kind of late this morning leading to speculation that he was about to bail.  However, he rallied and led the 4th pitch later in the day.
1)  Sleeping in on Zodiac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A new solo, whose name I have forgotten, climbed the first two today and I think will blast in the morning.

Continental Drift:  The CD team moved over some very steep ground today with some impressive lower-outs that would freeze the blood of even the most hardy of climbers.  But they pulled it off nicely.  Getting pretty high up now and the end should be in a couple more days.
2)  Big lower out on CD.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Alex and Ryan have moved over to the long corners and were climbing to Wino Tower when I departed at almost 7 this evening.
3)  Alex Evans on the Traverse pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  My boy Regan climbed the seagull and was well into the pitches above when I departed after the Nose rescue this evening.
4)  Regan meets the Seagull.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The two Austrian climbers didn’t stay on ECT like I suggested but moved to C4 late in the night.  They were up early and past the Great Roof by early afternoon.  They were headed to C5 when one of them fell and his right thumb got caught and then severed by his aid sling.  Thus prompting the previously mentioned rescue.  It was a big deal and I will write a separate report about it after this one is done.
5)  Unfortunate Austrians earlier in the day.  Leader was the injured person.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Waiting for the chopper at the top of Pancake Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a team of three moved along well and passed the KS with interesting but insane techniques for moving the bags across the fabled Swing.  They were on the GR when the rescue went down and continued to climb.  
7)  Moving freight the risky way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Late evening on the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team of two was seen moving up the Legs late in the morning followed by a team of three who were very low, very late in the evening.  Epics will surely follow!  Stay tuned.

Salathe/Freerider:  The multitudes are still on the route with the South Africans moving diligently along.  I watched them climb the Monster and its right hand counterpart late this evening.  Looked like fun.
9)  Duel climbers on the twin cracks above the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  South Africans earlier in the day, climbing above HFL.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team of two Brian and Ben, climbed ahead of the mob and dusted off the Monster and were down in time to watch the rescue unfold.
11) Strong move into the Monster crack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another team trailed along behind and all should be sound asleep in the Alcove or on the Spire as I finish the Report.

In other news:  Tommy Caldwell showed up at the Bridge this morning after a long drive from Colorado.  He is psyched to get back on the Project but Kevin has not arrived as of yet.  Should provide some interesting viewing over the next several weeks.  Very quiet at the Bridge today in splendid weather.  I would have done the Report earlier but about the time I was about to write it the call came in for the Rescue so I went out to shoot the event.
So that’s the way it is for this the 26th day of September, 2011.
Later Tom