ElCap Report 9/25/12

ElCap Report 9/25/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… More great weather has drawn climbers to the best of the best in the Big Wall department.  Uuuu Reeeaaallllyyy missed it, if you are not here!  But there will be a string of many more good days this season so come on out.
Facelift started today and in a bit I am going to the evening show to see the Reel Rock Tour show.  Lots of people have shown up to help out with the effort and more are needed, so come on out!

Today's ElCap Report... written just for you...unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The guys from yesterday were fixers, not blasters.  They stopped by the Bridge for a chat this afternoon.  They are Brits, Vic and Guy and are keen to go tomorrow.

Trip:  Oli Warlow is on the route now and making excellent progress.  He  was on the  8th when I departed.  Solo’s have to do lots of lowering out to do cleaning, so I have included a couple of shots of him cleaning the 5th and 6th when he linked the pitches.

1)  Oli cleaning on the 5th.





























2)  Oli lowering out on the 6th.




























I did see a couple of people starting the route earlier in the day.

North American Wall:  You know there’s this huge pine tree in front of the Bridge that blocks most of the view of the route so I, once again, missed seeing a party on the route until they were high up.  I picked them up by accident really, when a large cam caught the sun and gave their position away.  They were just past the roof and heading to the Cyclopes Eye.  Sorry guys but you didn’t stop by and tell me….  So … next time…
3)  Pitch into the Eye from way out west.  Island in the Sky, on the PO, I think is large feature in the left of the shot.




























ND/Genesis:  Really loving the shots of this route and am glad that Pete and Jon are on it … I have someone to show the Tourons every day and great rock to shoot!  They are at the elevation of Camp 5 on the Nose.  I have gotten a ton of great shots and look forward to more… Vertical camping.. Not so bad for the photographer!
4)  Jon leaving the belay stopped to get the forgotten haul line.  Looks like he got the word on the tan shirt he has been sporting the past few days!   Yellow rules!





























5)  Jon leading on the first, and maybe the last, of the day!




























6)  Jon at the belay, shot from miles away out west.




























3D:  I spotted 3 guys yesterday, leaving Mammoth Terrace, and saw them on the pitch above Grey Ledges this afternoon. 

Nose:  The team I posted a pic of yesterday were not to be seen today…bailers most likely.
Above a team of three made good progress above ECT, doing the King Swing and leading to Camp 4 as I departed.  Nicely dressed crew with only one black shirt.
 Lower down a team from Brazil dragged into the Legs in mid afternoon and have miles to go to Dolt with ECT but a distant dream.
A  team of two Scots, Phil Sanderson and Shaun Roberts, climbed over from the 3D to jump in front of the 3man team early in the afternoon.  Phil's chatty wife, Pauline,  stopped by to watch the lads climb.  Spunky las that one, with a quick wit and a sharp tongue!  They were on the GR as I departed around 3pm and spent the night at Camp 5.

Salathe/Freerider:  Presently the routes to do on the Cap.  I counted 5 parties strung out along the route with most being above the Ear.  The Japanese are moving steadly moving up and I assume making the pitches free.  A very colorful team was planted on the Ear as I shot later in the afternoon.
Below are some the the scenes I shot today.
7)  Climber working the difficult pitches up to the Roof this afternoon.  Where in the hell are they getting these lousy looking shirts?




























8)  Belayer waiting on Sous le Toit ledge.  Nice colors... see it can be done!




























9)  Three man crew on the Ear this afternoon.  Nice colors!




























10)  Headwall pitch from the Bridge.  Leader... bad colors!




























11)  Headwall from out west.




























Cosmos… looks like Ski and Amanda are a few below Thanksgiving ledge and will most likely top out tomorrow.  I got some shots of them but none were very good.

12)  Mystery pitch of the Day!  Name the Route and Pitch of this climb shot today





























13)  Blast from the Past:  On a very hot day in late July 1983, water long gone, I am seen climbing to the start of the last pitch of the Nose via the 3D.



























In other news:  Well…mmmm …let me see… well… Oh yes ..the speedy women record setters, Chantel and Mayan, did the first women’s link up with the Reg on the Dome in a little more than 19 hours after a leisurely climb of the Dome.
I went to see the Facelift show at the auditorium this evening, but the venue is much too small and people were packed in wall to wall… the heat was awesome and I could see it was not going to be fun for an old timer who likes breathing room, so I said hi to some folks and left before the show started.  
So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 25th day of September, 2012.
Later, Tom


"Blast from the past"

Tom, look at YOU!!! Great photo. Feels like yesterday, eh?


Mystery pitch

ZM, somewhere about 10 or so?


El Cap Nose

Have you seen two climbers from Chattanooga? Should have started climbing the Nose on Monday or Tuesday.
 Names are Sam & Robert. Thanks!
They didn't come by so I don't know what they look like or when they started.  Many climbers on the Nose now.  Tom

TOM! great shots today.

TOM! great shots today. thanks for the report and your efforts out there.

basking bob...

Awesome Shots Tom

Wish I was there - no idea where your mystery shot is.

You should see the Reel Rock films - they are sweet!


Killer Stuff Man

Thanks for another stellar report. Keep em comin' till the snow starts fallin!
Scott (Micronut)

ND 2 Genesis

Thanks Tom great shots and Fox is pushing for the record for sure. Pete hold on mate Fox is getting up to speed and the bags are getting lighter.

See ya Friday at the bridge men for cold ones.

From PTPP on the wall for 9/25

"Tell Tom we dress to please!


We have created Schneiderado at a superb 15' long x up to 3+' wide flat bridge halfway along P7. My Rope Gun Jon performed yeoman service leading some stout free climbing on P6 but the real deal came first half of P7 with some runout 5.10 between marginal 'pro'. Dsng. Buddy can climb, eh?

Oh yeah, I made an aid climber out of him with some hooks, duct tape and Scream Aids. We added two 5-16" buttonhead bolds and two ledge rivets so now it's amazing (sic) digs.

We were surprised that F Aists didn't set a belay and bivi here. It wud be like bypassing Bismark or Peanut Ledge."

Awesome pics

Great pictures as always, thanks Tom!!!!


Great pics of the soloist on TT. Really love how much detail you can see. It shows how much work goes into soloing a route like that.

Teddy Bear

The fall lighting is nice!

You're right that the fall light is great, but thanks for being there in the summer too. Sweet pictures and I'm jealous of those that can spend the fall in the ditch.