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ElCap Report 9/25/11

Submitted by Tom Evans on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 00:53

ElCap Report 9/25/11
By Tom Evans

Yo…. No rain in the forecast … but… it was cloudy, windy, and chilly all day.  The Cap took on a dark and forbidding appearance that kept even day climbers away.  The Bridge was quiet, with few climbers or Tourons evident.  This was the last day of a very successful Facelift.  So it will be a lot quieter tomorrow around here!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Jay, the solo, was on the route today and was at the end of the third when I departed.

1)  Jay climbing on the third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continental Drift:  The boys moved slowly today, of course they always move slowly. Pete was in the lead and much to my surprise brandished a long cheater stick to get past a spot which, I am sure MUST be impossible without such tactics.  So for our man Pete…
2)  STICK OF THE DAY!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Mescalito:  Regan was on the move today and I was able to pick him out through the trees, low on the route.  Should be a fun route for him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Steve and Brant were a pitch from the top when I departed at 2:30 this afternoon.  Should be off by now.
4)  Steve and Brant on the nice ledge two pitches from the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Lower down, Alex and Ryan climbed the rest of the right side of ECT this morning and were moving along on the traverse pitches when I left.
Finishing the right side of ECT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Alex and Ryan, talking it over next to Texas Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Alex on the traverse away from ECT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  Two teams climbed to ECT from Dolt this morning.  The lead team was a mixed team who climbed to the top of Texas, did a few of the bolts, before returning to Texas Flake and bailing the route.
8)  BAIL OF THE DAY!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  For a time there were three parties on ECT and they lined up for a picture!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last team to ECT, an Austrian team, climbed Texas Flake and were headed to the Boot as I departed.  They would be wise to just fix the Boot and bivy at ECT in the face of what can only be called “strange weather”.

Lower down a couple of teams were in the Stovelegs, one being a team of three.  They met up with the bailers later in the afternoon and it was a bit cramped.
10)  Climbers meet Bailers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower yet I spotted Ranger Jack and girlfriend Mary at the top of Sickle ledge.  It is her debut on the Captain and his umpteenth.  Like the rest of the teams, they looked cold.
11)  Jack and Mary top of Sickle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3D:  I did see several climbers who looked like they were rapping down to Mammoth.

Salathe:  I did spot a couple of the South African climbers around Lung Ledge and none seem interested in going higher today.

In other news:  Not much other news today… so…
That’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 25th day of September, 2011.
Later Tom
 

#1Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 18:16.

Sunday PM update

I sat in the Meadow till about 1730 on Sunday night. It was raining lightly as I left.
Update for a few of the teams:
Regan continued to make steady but slow progress on Mescalito. Working his way up the overhanging pitch that ends at a small tree.
Someone jugged the Alcove swing and re-rigged it with new line.
Steve and Brant finally got their bags over the New Dawn lip by about 1700. At 1730 the second was still cleaning up under the lip. No doubt they finished it.
The Austrian team on the Nose got to Boot Flake. The leader (in white shirt) had an epic struggle for nearly an hour to get the King Swing. First, too high, then too low, then just right but with a long loop in his tagline before making it. When I left at 1730 he was above the Eagle Nest nearly even with the top of Boot Flake and it was starting to rain lightly, his partner and Pig perched on the Boot. I hope they managed to get back together last night. I wonder where they bivvied.
Team of two in black clothing made camp on Dolt Tower then took a long time leading the next pitch. Team of 3 reached ECT and camped.
One party kept going on the Salathe from Lung Ledge. The leader was just reaching Hollow Flake ledge when I left. I wonder where they bivvied.

#2Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 10:46.

Pete, Neil & Callum...

I totally believe in the three of you and know you are giving CD a terrific "second go." Your progress is *RAD*. Looking forward to hearing of your success this week.

Thank you, Tom, for all of the daily posts and your great support of the climbing community.

Carol

#3Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 07:33.

Interesting block at the top

Interesting block at the top of Sickle, never noticed that before. Thanks!

#4Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 03:49.

Pete....Pete....Pete....you'v

Pete....Pete....Pete....you've got some 'splaning to do...

~lambone

#5Submitted by Anonymous on Mon, 09/26/2011 - 03:32.

Great stuff Tom

As usual...

Nice shot of Pete with the stick.... I always thought those things were for wussies... But now that Pete's using one, I guess its in fashion...

So...

#6Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 09/27/2011 - 08:18.

Pete is climbing a hard el

Pete is climbing a hard el cap route while you sit at your computer.