ElCap Report 9/22/12

ElCap Report 9/22/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… A fine day here in the Valley with thin, high clouds and cooler temperatures.  Looks like 70’s forever in the forecast.  Loving it!
Action slacking off on the Cap as many teams are reaching the top today or early in the morning.
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Trip:  The three man team slept in and didn’t get rolling until after 10am.  After that they moved right along but will need another day to climb off.

1)  Nathan jugging near the bags, which always involves the risk of tangled lines.




























2)  Higher on the center of the route later in the afternoon.  Russ leading.




























3)  Mescalito:  The Bismarck was the bivy spot last night and the team got off to a good start sending the infamous pitch above.  Off tomorrow.
Pitch off the top of the Bismarck.




























4)  ND/Genesis:  Jon and Pete stayed at ECT last night and climbed on the Geneses part of the route today.  Pete lead the first pitch and I got this shot of him hauling kit to the belay later in the afternoon.  Texas Flake is prominent in the view.




























5)   Nose:  Yesterday I spotted a mixed team just getting into the Legs as I was leaving.  They climbed to ECT for the bivy and set off again this morning.  Here they are leaving ECT … Jon and Pete are on the right side of the ledge.




























6)  The guy did the King Swing a bit on the high side and I am showing his line with these shots.  It shows that you can do the Swing from just about anywhere within 15 or 20 feet of the Tan Band but a word to the wise… don’t run on the band itself as it is much smoother that rock on either side of it where the friction is much better.







7)  The man did all the leading and was quite good and moved along quickly.  I last saw them on the Pancake Flake from way out west.





























8)  Above him were teams strung all the way up the final dihedral.  The three woman’s team didn’t make Camp 5 until this morning, staying, I think, at the Pancake Flake belay last night.  The other two wall style teams were ahead of them and I think they all will get off by tonight.





























9)  Lead team making the top in mid afternoon.





























Salathe:  The 4 man team of Japanese climbers hoping to free the route, showed up today and hauled kit to the bottom of the Ear where they had fixed lines a couple of days ago.  Looks like a siege climb in the making!
10)  Moving up the lines early in the morning.





























11)  Cosmos:  Once again I was able to get out west to see Skiy and Amanda.  They seem to be going well and I was able to get a shot of Amanda Fenn leading above the reclining Mr. Detray.  Very colorful rock out there.

























12)  Scenic shot from the 90’s.  Can you guess what waterfall it is??  Duh!



























In other news:  Very quiet at the Bridge today with some guys hanging out for most of the time.  John Selove brought cold beverages for the crew and is planning on something out west or on the dawn wall.  Sean O’Neill, brother Timmy and a support team are planning on climbing the Reg. within the next few days.  Sean is disabled from the waist down but is not deterred from doing just about anything he wants and has done 3 EC routes in the past!!
So that’s the way it is, for this the 22nd day of September, 2012.
Later, Tom


ND to Genesis - from the wall...

PTPP asked me to post this from Sat., Sept. 22:

Wow. Got two hard pitches fixed today. Second was quite stout with intimidating nailing straight up under a roof traverse…Solved with peckers driven vertically and tat through the top hole to minimize bending movement. One scary near fall when piece I was on blew and I fell onto the one I was nailing which actually held me – yikes! Followed by some hooking up the ramp, sung to the tune [One Enchanted Evening] and then thin beaks to finish. Gads, two pitches in one day?! Looks like some A4 for lunch, after my rope gun leads some free climbing to get me there.

Great photography

It can never be said enough, your images and text are fantastic: positions, rock texture, framing. You are so right about the King Swing, I found out the hard way some decades ago (when one still expected the fixed intermediate pendulum point to be in place, as you probably recall) and took some monstrous pendulum swings back, unable to stay stuck to the rock and grab a hold. Great show for the crowd down in the meadow, I suppose.

Good to hear the O'Neills are at it again. Timmy's slide show on their Zodiac climb was one of the best I've ever seen. Advise use of Depends though, you will laugh that hard.

Girls RULE!!!

Keep up the good work...Good luck ladies!
Thank you Tom for all your hard work.

Thanks, Tom...

Hey, Tom -

I have been appreciating the updates since your return this fall. The shots are amazing and much appreciated by those of us in "cube world." Wish I was there...


Amanda and Skiy

Thanks so much for getting some shots of Cosmos with Amanda and Skiy again. She looks strong. Gorgeous colors in that rock! Thanks for the updates and photos. Great way to share in their adventure.
Amanda's family