ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/30/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Beautiful day today, but they say it won’t last!  Still, there were parties heading out and up.  We are hoping that June will be like May usually is, and not just turn into hot summer days.  Now that the ElCap Shuttle is operating there is a lot of action at the Bridge.  This past weekend was not so good but today was light duty, as far as getting around on the roads.   The HEATED swimming pool is now open at the Lodge so come on out and have some fun!
 

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you.. unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Mike Donaldson climbed off last night and came by the Bridge this afternoon for a chat.  
Later in the day… Corbin Usinger and Burt Bronson started on the route this afternoon with an eye on fixing 4 and blasting tomorrow in a push.  At dinner last night there was some speculation about this teams chances at actually doing it in a push.  The lads have nearly ZERO aid climbing experience, although both are solid free climbers.  “You’re going to die” was the most frequent phrase heard around the table!

Corbin leading the 2nd while Burt tends the ropes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later yet… another team arrived and started the route.  They are Riley Wyna and partner Sayar.  They fixed the pitch and are going back tomorrow to go to 4 Riley starting Zodiac’s 1st.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortest Straw:  I convinced the Brit, Neil Chelton, who was going to solo Aurora, to abandon that soaking wet route and do the Straw.  He lead the first pitch this afternoon and was cleaning when I departed around 4pm.

Neil leading the first pitch on the Shortest Straw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zenyatta:  Mark and John headed up, in the company of two porters, Colin and Cheyne, to resume their ascent of this great route.  They were on the third as I departed.

Hoofin to the Cap.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Read the sign boys!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mark leading the third pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  A team materialized out of cosmic void and were seen low in the Stovelegs around 4pm.  Otherwise the route stands empty.

Salathe:  After a storm bound day and night, the team of 4 Spanish climbers bailed this morning.  A very good move in my opinion at the center of the route is really wet.  BAIL OF THE DAY!

Spanish team talking over the decision to bail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lost World:  I did go out west today and spotted Piton Pete’s camp at the top of the first pitch.  Seems they have been hold up there for the last several days.  Pete was above camp setting up the hauling.

Camp Piton with Dave Blattel at the belay.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:  Seems that the Fear was more than lurking out there today.  I watched a team climb the free variation of the 2nd pitch.  However they didn’t free climb at all…. BUT used a huge cheater stick to advance along the protection bolts.

STICK OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Nice day at the Bridge today as several friends came by and chatted for a time.  
HEADLINE:  NPS issues new uniforms to YOSAR team members.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this Monday, the 30th day of May, 2011.
C U later…
Telephoto Tom