ElCap Report 5/27/11

ElCap Report 5/27/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Very nice here today but the weather reports are not the best for the weekend.  So please consider staying home this weekend!  The traffic here will be a mess so be prepared for the Report to be late or missing for a while as I will most likely not be able to get to an internet connection in a timely manner.  Man up.. You can survive without your regular scheduled ElCap hit.  Today had light action on the Cap so without further delay..
 

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Mike Donaldson showed up high on the route today.  I spotted him just finishing the Nipple pitch at 9am and later shot him climbing into the White Circle.  He looks to be going fine and I anticipate no problems for him.
Mike entering the White Circle.  ZM's Lightning Bolt Roofs are on the left part of the shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  The two man team of Adam and Angelo are moving right along.  They are utilizing the short fix, block, technique and are thus putting the pitches behind them in good order.

Lowering the Bags from the end of the 5th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing the 9th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The team of three and the team of two from yesterday stayed at Camp 5, I guess, last night and I caught them all on the last pitch early this afternoon.

Last pitch of the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down it continues to be “Climb to Dolt and rap Day”.  Two teams were on the plan today.

Dolt Boys.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a team of two wall style climbers trudged toward Dolt this afternoon.  It doesn’t look promising for the lads and the weather moving in could dust them off.

Shield:  Sara and Corey were up and at it this morning.  Corey got the pitch after the Triple Cracks and Sara the one above.  They should reach Chickenhead Ledge late in the day.  Off tomorrow.

Sara leading past the Canoe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  The team from yesterday were spotted in the Alcove this morning but were not seen climbing at all.  ????
Lower down a couple of local boys were making a run up to work the 19th pitch on TR, but are moving so slowly that I don’t think they can get there by dark!  One looked like local climber, Lucho….  New nickname perhaps?… Lucho the Slow.

Out West is a place I didn’t go today as I had some business at personnel this afternoon.

Mystery Mountain of the Day!!  Name the tallest mountain in the background of this1969 shot I took.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glacier pt. area a few days ago.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meadow flower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news.  Very quiet at the Bridge today.  The ElCap Shuttle Bus is now running!  Have a nice holiday weekend!
Today’s words of wisdom.
“Our whole dignity consists in thoughts.  Let us endeavor then, to think well.”  Pascal 1670.

So that’s the way it is for this Friday, the 27th day of May, 2011.
Bye,
ElCap Tom
 

mike donaldson victory laps on the zodiac

Go Mike, Go!!! We are cheering you on from a far in Boulder, CO!
-Jess!!!

trip picture above

looks like finishing p8 to me.

Check out ropes on soloist

And then soloists, seriously! Consider the continuous loop solo aid method. Nothing f's up your ropes more than having all that stuff hanging, especially when the wind kicks up like we have been seeing this week. See Mike has a haul line (white dangling from him)? Not required with the continuous loop method. See him having to carry loops of red rope around with him? Not required! And when the wind blows, it gets worse! So, check out the CLSAM and things are a lot easier.

Nose

Thanks alot Tom! That was me and my friend finishing the Nose last night. We had planned on a NIAD but it took us 34 hours, and we didnt ever sleep. Ugh. Im super tired. Must get time down next go.

Go Sara and Corey...you guys kick ass!

Could be K2

Great stuff Tom.

Thanks or the photos.

I don't mind waiting because it is always worth it.

Cheers,
Jingy

Mike Donaldson

Crush it, Mike !

Tom, thanks for what you do.

Team Donaldson

Nice Shot

Good shot getting those guys on the last pitch of the Nose. The Canoe is one of my favorite features on El Cap.

Russ

Thanks Tom!

Always a good read! Great shots Tom!! Thinking of you this weekend:)

The Princess

gud shit

gud shit! diggen on the less nose and more shots of other roots~!!!! keep it up!

Grand Jorasses, Chamonix

Grand Jorasses, Chamonix
 
Right you are!!!  Tom Evans