ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/25/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Nice day here in the Valley.  Started out sunny but by afternoon a thin layer of high clouds moved in along with a bit of wind.  There is a forecast for some possible showers tonight and I suppose that has kept some new parties from starting on the Captain.  The NPS folks had a good day of training with the new chopper crews from the CHP.  
 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Charlie’s route is now the most popular on the rock.  The team of two continued today after a bivy just in the White Circle.  They let the solo climber, Peyton Hassinger, pass them and he took off at a rapid pace.  He has no ledge and damn little of anything else so he is sleeping at the top of 7 and 13 (peanut ledge).  I’m sure he appreciated their generosity.  The team of two got started as Peyton started the Nipple.  

Starting the day in the White Circle.

Peyton giving the thumbs up while leading the Nipple pitch.

Peyton cleaning the Nipple pitch.

Center pitch in the White Circle.

Lower down another solo is on the rock.  He is a guy named Mike, according to my spies.  Here he is on the first pitch.

The Trip:  The two guys from the past couple of days were up and at it early and were at the bolt ladders when I departed around 3pm.

Early start on the Trip.

Almost done with the pitch before the bolt ladders on the Trip.

Nose:  I did see one of the teams from yesterday exiting Camp 5 around 9am this morning.  Otherwise there was no sign of anyone from yesterday being left on the route.  One of the teams from the Stovelegs yesterday did remain on the climb and went from ECT to the Gray Bands as I watched.  They had some difficulty on the King Swing due to the swinger wearing approach shoes.  That tan band is really slick and it is best to break out the climbing shoes for the swing.  They soon got it and went on.  Camp 4 for them tonight.

Hauling off Texas Flake this morning.

Sliding around in approach shoes on the King Swing.

Climbing past the triangular roof and tan band on the way to the pendulum into the Gray Bands.

Salathe:  All the teams (3) I saw over there yesterday bailed.  Today a team of two climbed past Hollow Flake and were headed to the Ear by the time I departed.

“Up rope”!!  At the belay atop Hollow Flake.

The NPS has another practice day today.  And here is a shot of some Honcho’s.

In other news:  Piton Pete arrived today and immediately lead a caravan of porters off to the cliff.  I hear a certain Pirate and his wench are due in town soon to start the Muir Wall.  Jamie Mundo showed up yesterday after a considerable absence.  The man looked healthy and full of fire, as usual.
The Bridge was very quiet today as no one wanted to sit around listening to rotor wash and breathe in dust all day.  
So that’s the way it is for this Wednesday, the 25th day of May, 2011.
Inspirational advice of the Day!
“Early to bed, early to rise,
  Work like hell and advertise”

Later,  Captain Tom