ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/24/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Whoa dude.. Perfect, sunny, warm day here in Yosemite.  The weather has broken on the good side, so we can finally make up for all those shitty days we had earlier in the month!  The Captain is starting to get some serious climbers on it.  So listen up Cupcakes… the time is now … you know what the temperatures will be in a month… yes, HOT!   So make up some excuse to leave your cubicle, tell the mate you are going to the store for a while… then jump in the unit, shut the doors and hit the gas!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Although on the wet side, low down, this classic route is getting real traffic for the first time this season.  A team of two who fixed a couple of days ago is leading the charge and was dusting off the Black Tower pitch as I departed this afternoon.

Hauling to the top of Zodiac’s 4th pitch early this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Closely behind the team of two is Peyton Hassinger, who, if you recall, is also looking for a partner for Sunkist.  He decided to solo Zodiac, for fun, while waiting to hook up with a seasoned partner.  He is moving well and will most likely dog the lead team all the way up.

Below him is a team of two who fixed a couple today for a later blast off.

The Trip:  The team of two from the past two days is moving right along in the center section of this oft done, not so great route.  Two more days for them I think.

Iron Son:  Richie’s resolve finally evaporated and he bailed from the EC Tree.

Nose:  The King is alive and well it would appear, although some have been put off by reports of water in the cracks high on the route.
Today I saw borthers Eric and Neils blazing up the route on a NIAD run.  I picked them up on the Great Roof at 9am and they moved well all morning.
I think they had a 22 hour NIAD in the past.  Should be better today.  

NIAD climber in deep shade on the Great Roof early this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cleaning Pancake Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pitch into Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down four teams were jammed up around the Boot this morning.  
All had difficulty with the King Swing.  I don’t get it… how to do this easy traverse is widely known to almost every climber on the planet with the exception of those who actually climb the Nose for the first time.
As the great Cedar Wright said, while struggling on the PO Wall,
“It’s a mystery up there”!
It does appear that all of the teams today will probably make the top eventually.  There was another NIAD at the rear of the column today and they are for big time suffering, as their pace is slow for the task.

Pitch to the Jardine Traverse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boot Flake, jammed bag, lower out, cleaning, waiting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steppin high on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

He needs to be two feel lower and grab the corner where it is less wide... then just change feet and press left.  But he got it anyway!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shortcut into the Gray Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pitch into Camp 4 on the Nose.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Triple Direct:  I saw the Spanish 3 D team summit around 3pm this afternoon.

Salathe:  Several parties marched up to the Ear this morning and the top one bailed early in the afternoon.

BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two other teams are proceeding along and reached the Ear pitch as I departed.

Lurking Fear:  Sorry but no information as my shooting area has been closed.

The YOSAR is having a training day today and the EC Meadow was off limits to civilians.  I am not sure about tomorrow as they got a really late start this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news.  Nice at the Bridge today.  A few climbers drifted in and out as did Tourons.  The air was nice and clear and make for some good shooting.  The big weekend is rapidly approaching and with it will come the EC Shuttle Bus.  It is a blessing to all, so use it!

So that’s the way it is for this Tuesday, the 24th day of May, 2011.
Thought of the Day.
“Unconscious courage is an easy achievement for the uninitiated.
They don’t know any better.”
Later Tom