ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 5/19/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… Ok, now we have a climbing season!!  The weather cooperated today with clear skies and warmer temperatures.  As a result the rock saw many teams up and at it.  Some dark clouds scudded in later in the day, so we will see what happens.  The entire upper wall shines with water and the cracks abound with it… suffering up high will be the order of the day!
So, kick the tires and light the fires because we are heading up on the Big Stone to see what is to be seen.  Here we go!!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!!

Zodiac:  A team of two climbed the first pitch this afternoon and will most likely go higher.  I think it is Erik Sloan and friend Ryan, who are up for a push tomorrow after fixing today.  

ZM:  Scott Krankkala and Patrick Erley fixed one yesterday and were finishing the third as I departed early this afternoon. There seems to be some debate who these guys are and correspondence says they could also be Wade Undem and Eli Simon.  Does anyone really know?  The correspondence says they called from the 11th pitch but that would be impossible for the team on ZM.  So I'm going with Wade and Eli!!  Scott and Patrick must be on the Nose.  So far so good for these guys!

  Wade leading on ZM’s 2nd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Eli belaying on ZM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VA/Trip:  Holly has cut in the afterburners and was finishing the first of the two bolt ladders this afternoon.  She has made excellent progress these past two days and will be off tomorrow.

Holly heading to the bolt ladders on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down on the Trip a team of three wandered up the first 4 by later in the day.  I don’t know anything about these guys, so we will see how it develops for them.

Waiting at the belay on the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Swinging around on the 4th of the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The Gold Standard is busy as expected.  A team of three Spanish climbers, Joan DeRivert, Pol El Gruixaire, and Jordi El LLeidata climbed smartly up to ECT by early afternoon but seem to have decided to stop there for the night, even though it was only 2:30pm when I departed.

Hauling kit to Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jugging the haul line off Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spanish Team setting up bivy on ElCap Tower early in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below them several teams of two dragged along up the Stovelegs and were
miles from Dolt by the time I left.  Most will bail I think.

Salathe:  The Salathe is really wet, but has two teams of suitors who were seen hauling to Heart via the fixed lines.  Wet suits are advised!

The Captain with the wet look.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Denise, Russ, and Soren came by and hung out today.  They brought refreshments and spent several hours hanging out.  Lots of other climbers came and went and it looks like the Season is on.  Mikey Schaeffer and Kate Rutherford pulled into the Valley for an extended stay today.  The Ask a Climber Program had a nice crop of Tourons today and they left impressed with what they heard and saw.  The bad news is that the ElCap Shuttle Bus will not be running until Memorial Day weekend.

As you may have heard, the end of the world is predicted to occur in 2 days.  This was divined by intricate analysis of the Bible by those supposedly “in the know“.  Therefore, we will be having an “End of the World” party at the Bridge this Saturday, the 21st of May.  Share the last moments of earthly existence with the bridge crew and bask in the glow of the Captain is we all slide into oblivion!  

So that’s the way it is for this Thursday, the 19th day of May, 2011.  The last Thursday in the history of the world.  Enjoy!!
Oh yes, send me all of your money, as you won’t be needing it anymore!
Later Tom