ElCap Report 5/15/12

ElCap Report 5/15/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… The long winter has passed and your man, ElCap-pics, is here to bring all the latest ElCap climbing news directly to you. So, listen up Cubicle Pukes!! Put down your work, clear the room, put on some cool tunes, and come with me to the Valley of your dreams, in this, the first of many Reports to follow.

The weather has been spectacular for over a week now with warm, clear days that belie the action on the Captain. Today there were 4 parties on the Cap with three of those being on the Nose. Since I have been here almost a week now, doing lens tests and setting up for the season, I will update you on some of the recent action.

Today’s ElCap Report… unique in all the world… written just for you!

Prophet: I saw Nik Berry working the A-1 Beauty several times of late and hear he is trying to recruit Cody Sims, who I hear is not psyched yet.

Zodiac: This classic route has seen a lot of action this past week. The YOSAR team of Paul and Pete topped out a couple of days ago, along with several others. Ammon and Kait came in with a very limited time schedule and went up to do the route but were not allowed to pass a team on the first pitch. The unknown party said that they were worried that they would be held up, by the dynamic duo who, they said had “camped out on Wings” and were thus too show to let pass! In a brilliant move, Ammon and Kait jumped on the first 7 of Shortest Straw and slid in front of the hapless Zodiacer’s by the top of the 7th pitch, where they joined Zodiac, and kept the lead for the rest of the climb!

Ammon and Kait starting the Shortest Straw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kait cleaning on the Nipple pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Passed Zodiac team in the White Circle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scorched Earth: Over the past week Eric Erickson and Kate Robertson climbed this recently pushed route. They are one of our most solid teams and seemed un-phased by the difficulties.

 

Eric on the Levitator pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kate lowering out to start another day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NA Wall: A team of two Norwegians bailed from the top of 5 a few days ago.

Mescalito: An experienced foreign climber, named Louis, finished his solo on the 9th of this month.

Nose: The Nose has seen some activity this past week. As usual, bailers were about equal to senders in number. Today Stanley and friend, Eliza Kurr, easily did a NIAD in daylight. The route is nearly empty as I type these words. Below are some shots from the past few days.

 

Mixed team of Norwegians on the Great Roof one afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of three climbers who did the 3D is short fixed and waiting on Pancake Flake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Making the grab on the King Swing as a couple of Ravens do a fly-by.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stanley stylin on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe/Freerider: TC and Hondo breezed up Freerider, free, in 7 hours the other day. Local Hero, James Lucas and partner Mark, rapped the route while working some of the harder pitches. They will be back!

A team of two did a SIAD a couple of days ago.

Never Never Land: Wild man, Jamie Mundo, and two others blasted today on this, out west, route.  Local Parker soloed the route last week in warm conditions.

Lurking Fear: Several teams have climbed this popular route this past week. Solo push by Cheyne Lempe, and Bud Millers push with a partner, highlighted the week.

Here are a few shots for your viewing pleasure.

 

Dogwood sex.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pink Dogwood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Snow plant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news: Conditions here could not be better. Perfect weather and campsites available have made this a great start to the season. The Captain is mostly vacant so the way is open for you. I am staying at the Camp Host site in Camp 4 so, come on by when you can.

So that’s the way it is for this Tuesday, the 15 day of May, 2012.

Later Tom

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stone age Dude

Great pics Tom. Always good to see the report up and running again every spring. I'll be there on Sunday! Can't wait!

It's good to see you're back

It's good to see you're back at the bridge for another round. I will see you there as soon as possible.

Adam Long

mice making nice

You have a great gig and you're enthused over success and not critical of lack of it. What a plan!--Mouse from Merced

Need anything

Nice pics Tom. Should arrive in 17 days, need anything from the outside world? Fresh veggies when we arrive? Love the new pics, and the writing isn't too bad either.

Burly Bob

Hi...Tom Hyung... I'll arrive

Hi...Tom Hyung...

I'll arrive there 1st ofJune....

I send a Email to you ....

Please Check it...

See you soon..

I.C.Kang

Soooo Gooood!

Tom, your images are striking and the drama fresh and hand picked. Thanks for coming back rarin' to go with full blown wall action.
Your first crop of images are un-real. Those shots of making the grab on the King Swing are CA-RISP! You're already stepping it up a notch.
Have fun this week. Thanks.
Scott Jett (Micronut on ST)

The season has started!

Psyched you're back Tom. I look forward to your pictures and commentary.

Awesome

As I started reading this article, I was charging up my iPod and picking songs for our trip to the valley on Thursday! Thanks for the awesome report and killer photos. We'll be heading up Freeblast on Friday, my first time on the Captain, and I'm already losing sleep over it, lol.

I've missed your photos.

I've missed your photos.

welcome back!

Glad to have you back and reporting from the bridge. My Spanish friends are heading up 3D. If you see a Catalonian woman wearing bright colors, smoking hard and aiding fast, that's Mamen. Looking forward to following their ascent. Cheers, Shino

See ya soon, Tom!

I'll be there in 11 days, Tom! Too bad you don't drink coffee!

Mark