ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 10/26/14

By Tom Evans

Yo… The rain came and went in an hour or so last evening with about 12 drops reported to have actually hit the ground!  Today was breezy and sunny.  The action on the hill was light, as the fearful cowered in their hovels yesterday, awaiting their demise by drowning.   Tuesday will see the girls back on the Nose for another run.  I was mistaken yesterday, as they didn’t start at 6 but 7am.  So their time was within a few minutes of their present record.  Their plan is to take an hour or so off the record, not just break it.  Stay tuned. 

I will be leaving in a few days, as I have other commitments.

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Lunar Eclipse:  Kenny and partner climbed from the Tooth to Lunar ledge this morning and spent the warm afternoon lounging on the ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Zodiac:  Damien and Ryan, local heroes, climbed from the start of the MOZ to Peanut Ledge as I shot today.  They will go off this evening.  Here they are leading past the Devil’s Brow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  A bit later they swung past the Lunar team, who were waiting for them to pass, so they could get on the exit pitches too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Lower down the new solo, Steve from JTree, climbed from the top of 4 to the end of the Black Tower as I shot.  Here he is climbing onto the Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Higher up Steve crossed the white dikes to the finish of the pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Tangerine Trip:  Todd Koziczkwski, who fixed and hauled one yesterday, finished to the roof and was climbing beyond as I took this shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Jim Beyer is continuing on Iron Hawk now.  He may be finished with his new variation of that route.  He was sure in some great looking rock this afternoon!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  I spotted this mixed team hauling kit up to Heart Ledge this morning.  A word to the wise… don’t dress like the guy below the bag! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Salathe:  Later in the day another mixed team climbed to the start of the Ear while I was there.  The woman hauled the bag and she rocked it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Earlier in the day, I talked for a time, with Tommy Caldwell about various climbing plans and such.  Later I saw him, wife Becca and their child, returning from a short walk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Chantel came by for some hang time in the meadow with several others, and is leaving in the morning.  She is planning on returning in the Spring to take care of some unfinished business.  The forecast calls for some nasty weather this weekend which just might close out the season for most climbers.  I think Tommy and crew will be staying on into November to work the Dawn Wall.

Regan came into Camp 4 late in the evening and we talked about his adventures on Surgeon General for a while.  He loved the climb and said it was the best one he had ever done and that the 2 weeks spent on it were just great!  We await his trip report!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 26^th day of October, 2014.

 

Later, Capt. Tom