ElCap Report 10/25/09

ElCap Report 10/25/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Fall …it continues to enchant all who are here… perfect days and nights… that I hear will soon come to an end.  The last few days of the season are on now and by the weekend it will be over as the snows are supposed to fly on Friday.  Most of the teams on the wall are getting off today or in the next couple of days.  I will soon be out of things to write about and when the herd moves on …. so will I.
Today’s ElCap Report … written just for you…unique in all the world!

Fall picture of the Day:  West Face of Sentinel Rock.


























Lunar Eclipse:  I couldn’t believe it…. The guys bailed!  I was so psyched to get some more cool shots on the route. 
Bail of the Day… have another drink lads, you will have all winter to think about it!





















Zodiac:  The German team of three topped out late in the afternoon today.
Below them a team of two, Kevin (from the solo on the trip the other day) and partner Tim are on a push today, after starting a little after 6am..  They are moving fast and were already headed toward Peanut Ledge when I got out of there.  Sweet!  They just walked into the café at 6:30pm!
Kevin busting some free moves on the Mark of Zorro pitch.























Below them the solo from yesterday, Ben, climbed the Black Tower pitch without too much trouble and I think will be spending the night just in the White Circle.
Ben Doyle up close and personal with the Black Tower.

























Lost in America:  Scott was just a pitch away from the top when I departed and is most likely on top now enjoying a Cobra, left by Amanda’s Crew, who hiked down today.  Nice climb Scott!!
Scott Deputy finishing off LA.

























Trip:  The two man “Butterfly” Team topped out this morning and were down by afternoon.  The route is now empty.

NA Wall:  Kevin and Cooney climbed the Black Dihedral today and should be spending the night at the ledge in the Cyclops Eye.  They were pretty hard to see in the dark of the corner.
Kevin sitting in his cut down chair at the belay in the Black Dihedral, NA Wall.
























I hear there is another team fixed to two but haven’t seen anything of them although I haven’t been looking yet.

Nose:  Two teams were in the upper dihedral today and I watched the leading one top out.  The other was at the top of changing corners and could be getting off around dark.
Below them the team from yesterday, Tyler Logan and partner Phill, who were a bit late getting off Dolt in the afternoon, were on Eagle ledge by the time I arrived this morning.  They were starting the Great Roof when I left and are headed to a C5 bivy.
Below them the team of Mash and Hayden climbed the Stovelegs and headed to ECT as I left.

Muir:  Chris Bevins climbed the upper section today and was at the base of the last pitch by 3pm.  He really flew up the last half of the route.  Nice climbing there Son!
Chris hauling in the upper dihedral of the Muir.
























Chris looking at the direct finish on the last pitch of the Muir.
































Salathe:  I saw the Brits, Sam and Tom, get the works in the Hollow Flake this morning.  They did some strange maneuvers to get that pitch done and were just on the ledge there by the time I left around three.. Not good… not good at all.  They have no hope of reaching the Alcove and would be wise to fix a couple and stay where they are tonight and give it a hard go in the morning.
“Replacement leader, please report to Hollow Flake, right away!!”

























Lurking Fear:  This Super Trade has several parties on it at the moment.

Feature of the Day:  Yesterdays was indeed the Black Arch on the Dihedral Wall.






















In other news:  Not much other news these days.  The Bridge is very quiet now and a nice place to hang out.  The leaves are still beautiful here in the Valley and Fall is still going strong.  Some of the Dogwoods haven’t even started to change color yet!  Hanging on till the end here!!
So that’s the way it is for this the 25th Day of October, 2009.
Later Tom

Chris Bevins

Dude, you smoked up the route, as I expected you would. Awesome job! When you're are finished with the stuff, just give it to Tom. Can't wait to see the Lunar guys back on the job.\



The quiet of Winter

I think I will miss the words as much as the Pictures during the winter months. Your verbiage is as beautiful as the Pics. However, relax during the off season. Renewal is the thing that makes winter important. A time to reflect, to gather strength and take up the staff again in the Spring.
Until then Sir, we love the work and think kindly of the Photographer.
Jingys Mom

El Cap Rocks!

Cheers for the T-meadows SAR tearing it up on Zodiac! Props also to bolt-replacers, shiny bolts make climbing fun!



Dear Lunar Team, Thank you for the public service!

9 O'clock Roof ZM

cool spot!

Prod Sez!

Man I enjoy these reports.

Thanks Tom,


bail of the day!

Thats right! We made history! Bail of the day. But it wasn't a bail, just a temporary retreat. We ran out of anchor bolts and that was some manky manky anchors up there! We will be back soon to fix up this forgotten but stellar climb!

Stellar shots Tom! The

Stellar shots Tom! The colors on the Captain really stand out! So good to see you :)Wish we could have spent more time visiting with you but I had rock to climb!

Princess of the El Cap Bridge!