El Cap Report 09/19/07

ElCap Report 9/19/07
 By Tom Evan
s Yo... Yes it is true. I am back, rolling in around 5 this evening. I went down to the Cap to see what the action was. So this is a quickie.

Zodiac: Saw a party of two on the next to the last pitch heading for the top... should be off by now.
DNR (Dave's New Route) Saw the lad at the belay after the long traverse on the WEML and heard from locals in the know that he spent the day hanging on his portaledge... he is about half way up the wall at the moment.
Ivo Direct: Spotted Ivo a couple of pitches below the Dawn roof and it was reported that he did some climbing today... he is in a sheltered position with his ledge and fly up.
Nose: Spoke with Alex and Thomas Huber just down from a run up the nose today to refamiliarize themselves with the route and see what condition it was in... They will be here for a while Alex said. Alex mentioned that they passed a party on the great roof but there was no sign of them when I looked around 5 but that said they could have been above camp 5 and thus out of my view. That is what I saw on the rock this afternoon late...
In other news: There is a storm brewing, as you already know, but latest reports indicate that it is not as bad as first thought. But at this time of year it is prudent to be cautions so maybe that explains the lack of parties on the routes. Also, it was really smoky in the valley today due to some controlled burns in the meadows that are mostly out now. Plus if it does rain that should put the smoke out of commission. They are working on the roads too so expect some delays driving around the valley, but the ElCap shuttle is still going so save the air and take the bus down to ElCap. Also ran into several "locals" and enjoyed catching up on recent action here... So I will be here to dish the dirt and heap the praise as required... BTW our climbing ranger Jesse is getting married in a few days and while fearful does exude an certain air of optimism often seen in the unknowing!! You know what they say... even the most beautiful rose has its thorns!! Best of luck Jesse! Several friends and posse members have plans to go on the big stone as soon as the weather stabilizes... Henry from Germany is here and has some wall equipment to sell so as not to have to haul it back across the sea.. check the bulletin board in camp 4 for the particulars..
So that's the way it is on this Wed. Sept 19, 2007 .. good luck and good night!! Signing off... ElCap-Pics Tom Evans