ElCap Report 6/15 to 6/16 2014

ElCap Report 6/15 to 6/16/2014

By Tom Evans

Yo... Cool and windy seems to be the weather pattern for the moment.  Climbers are showing up to get on the good routes.  So come on out!

Today's ElCap Report...written just for you...unique in all the world!

ElCap Report 6/14/14

ElCap Report 6/14/14

By Tom Evans

Yo... perfect weather is here and we still need some replacements for the teams that have climbed and gone home... what about You??

I noticed a forest fire just starting up on my way into the park this morning.  We have had smoke drifting in all day and that is making for some bad atmospherics. 

ElCap Report 6/13/14

Yo... Splendid weather now... cool and sunny... no rain in any forecast.  Still lots of open routes and plenty of time for you to get on something.

We did have an accident last evening.  Alex and Brandon were fixing the first on Lunar Eclipse when Brandon pulled a head and the next piece, a newer BD #5 nut, as I recall, had its cable break!  The next piece down, another nut with a sling on it had the biner come off the sling.  Anyway Brandon went to the deck and YOSAR was called to the scene.  Broken hip was the call from the scene and Brandon was collected and flown out on a med-evac flight.  I talked to Alex this morning and it seems that Brandon was lucky... he has a very badly bruised hip, a broken rib, and a lost tooth or two but other wise is ok.  Check your nuts!!

ElCap Report 6/12/14

Yo.. The great weather is here and looking like hanging on for the rest of the season.  Cool up high today as witnessed by the Shield crew in puffy jackets and windbreakers all day!  Most of the action is on the Nose and Salathe/Freerider.  Zodiac is now empty... so this is your window of opportunity for that great classic.

ElCap Report 6/11/14

ElCap Report 6/11/14

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Hey the weather continues to be great up on the wall... a bit too hot on the Valley floor.  Not a lot of action on the cliff but the routes that are going are seeing some good teams on this today.  The internet I have been using has changed and it is very slow now... so I will get this report done and see what I can find for the next one.

ElCap Report 6/8 to 6/9 2014

Yo... Ok the great weather continues but on the warm side.  A cooling trend is expected in the next few days.  So be here, or be stupid.

I only have about an hour of internet access these days so those of you who are not in Yosemite and are emailing me for your climbing shots will have to bear with me... Drop Box takes ages to download so many images so it will take some time for me to get back to you.... have patience please and keep sending me email reminders every week or so and that way I will remember who you are!  Yesterday, Allfrey and Honnold finished their 7 ElCap routes in 7 days.  They finished on the 3D in a time of 5:15 which is a new time record.  So out of the 7 climbs they got 4 new speed records... not bad for a couple of young guys!!

ElCap Report 6/6 to 6/7 2014

ElCap Report 6/6 to 6/7 2014

By Tom Evans

Yo... Splendid weather continues to dominate the late Spring season on ElCap.  Hotter the next few days.  The Nose and Zodiac are seeing most of the action with some other climbers on Never Never Land, the Salathe, and Tribal Rite.  Allfrey and Honnold zipped the Zod in 5:05 this morning and were down by noon for a party thrown by Dave's folks at my tree in the meadow.  Good times for sure!

ElCap Report 6/5/14

ElCap Report 6/5/14

By Tom Evans

Yo... Beautiful days here in the Valley and lots of routes still to be done by.... you Puke!!  Get here... soon.  Or miss some of the best climbing weather we have seen in many a year.  Allfrey and Honnold are still knocking off EC routes daily.  They did the Nose today at what, I recall, Alex calls, "Recreational Pace".  No record this day but none was expected as that record requires considerable preparation and practice.  Still 5:15 is pretty smoking!!

ElCap Report 6/4/14

ElCap Report 6/4/14

By Tom Evans

Yo... still sweet weather here these days and the cliff is seeing some action.  Two teams on Tribal via New Dawn, several teams on the Nose, Zodiac has a bunch including several fromTeam Extreme Riders, Salathe has a team, Hudon and Richards are finishing the Albatross as I write this.  Italians have finished Mescalito. Allfrey and Honnold have set a speed record on the three climbs they have done over the past three days including, New Jersey Turnpike, Tangerine Trip and today they sent Eagles Way. 

ElCap Report 6/3/14

ElCap Report 6/3/14

By Tom Evans

Yo... continued great weather... get here soon folks.  Gotta run today so this will be short on words but long on picture quality.

Today's ElCap Report... written just for you...unique in all the world!

ElCap Report 6/2/14

ElCap Report 6/2/14

By Tom Evans

Yo.. kind of a slow here today with not a lot of action on the cliff, in spite of the great weather.  We had climbers on the Nose, Salathe, Albatross, Mescalito, Zodiac, and New Jersey Turnpike.  Dave Allfrey and Alex Honnold are on the higher reaches of the Turnpike as I type these words. Here are a few shots of today's action.

Today's ElCap Report...written just for you...unique in all the world!

ElCap Report 5/30 to 6/1/2014

ElCap Report 5/30 to 6/1/2014

By Tom Evans

Yo... Continued great weather prevails here in the Ditch.  Where are you?  You are not here?  You screwed up!  Allfrey and Honnold are blasting tomorrow on New Jersey Turnpike to do it in a day and for the next several days they will be trying to do an ElCap route a day!  You are going to miss it all, Puke.  But I will be sure to let you see the highlights on the Report!  Part of my, Mr. Nice Guy Policy.

ElCap Report 5/27 to 5/30/2014

ElCap Report 5/27 to 5/30/2014

By Tom Evans

Yo... Spectacular weather doesn't seem to be enough to bring in many climbers... so this is YOUR chance to get on that route you always wanted to yourself!  The climbing that is going on is of a high quality.  James McAffie and partner Dan just got down from a send of El Nino, just a few days after Tobias Wolf and his partner Thomas did the route.  Hudon and Jones made it back from their climb of Reticent.  Honnold and Allfrey are in the Valley now and are formulating some amazing plans... stay tuned.  Team Extreme Riders, from Korea, are due in soon.  So the stage is set for good things to happen.

ElCap Report 5/23 to 5/27/2014

ElCap Report 5/23 to 5/27/2014

By Tom Evans

Yo... perfect weather is bringing them back to the Valley, although today was not a very busy one on the Cap.  Hudon and Jones are down from Reticent after a very nice ascent of this difficult route.  A Zodiac team finished this afternoon and a solo is going into the circle now.  The Nose has had a lot of action in the past few days.  New Dawn has the normal Piton Pete crew on it but have not cleared the trees yet... maybe later in the week! The British climber James McCaffy and his partner are half way up El Nino.  The rest is sort of explained in the pics below.

ElCap Report 5/23/14 Rescue Edition

ElCap Report 5/23/14  Rescue Edition.

By Tom Evans

Yo... Nice weather these days but the cliff doesn't reflect the great conditions.  Perhaps the big holiday weekend is keeping them away.  Yosemite Search and Rescue had their annual May helicopter training day on the 21st of the month.  All the rangers qualified to get a ride on the bottom of a very long rope, suspended from the chopper, got to practice taking flight and landing on the side of the East Buttress of the Cap.  The weather was not great that day but they pushed through it with Richard Shatto doing the precision flying.

Well just two days later, Tobias Wolf and his partner Thomas, were rappelling near the area of the practice when a rock fell, without warning, from above and hit Tobias in the left knee.  YOSAR was quickly dispatched to the scene with Fire chopper 551, flown by Richard Shatto again.  It was the same flight as was practiced just two days before and it went quickly.  Below are some shots I got as I arrived a bit late for the first part of the flight.

ElCap Report 5/22/14

ElCap Report 5.15...22.2014 A week of climbing.

By Tom Evans

Yo...  Well, it has been hot.. cold.. dry... and wet, this past week.  Right now the conditions are perfect for climbing.  The Spring climbing season is in full swing now, so come on Cubicle Pukes... get out of your prison! 

ElCap Report 5/20/14 REMEMBERING TWO OF OUR FINEST FRIENDS

ElCap Report 5/20/14  Remembering Richie Copeland and Sean Leary.

By Tom Evans

On 5/18/14 we lost one of the best climbers and friends the Yosemite climbing community has ever known.  Richie Copeland was, as best we can figure, at the base of the first pitch of a Liberty Cap route, after hiking there with a friend to do the climb.  He put down his pack and scrambled around to, perhaps, get a better view of the climb, when the rocks he was standing on suddenly collapsed, causing his fatal fall down the cliff. 

ElCap Report 5/19/14

We lost a great man and friend to all, yesterday, as Richie Copeland fell to his death on the approach to Liberty Cap.  This has been a rough year for Yosemite climbers as Sean Leary was killed base jumping in March.  If you have been reading the Report, these past years, you know what fine men these friends were. I will see if I can get together some photos and such for each of these unique men who left us far too early.  We here in Yosemite are just crushed by the loss of these men.... both were one of a kind and we won't see the likes of them again...

ElCap Report 5/15/14

ElCap Report 5/15/14

By Tom Evans

Yo… Sunny and very warm here in the Valley.  The action on the great rock is presently confined to the Nose and Salathe routes.  The rock has no bird closures and is completely open to climbing.  I have procured a place to stay, outside of the park, which entails a fairly long drive to and from the valley.  I will be shooting climbers on ElCap daily from now until July. 

ElCap Report:Special Edition report on the new "Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide".

Special Edition: ElCap Report on new Yosemite Bigwalls Guide Book.
By Tom Evans

Yo… I am having a great winter thus far but I wanted to take a moment to make you aware of the new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide.  Erik Sloan and Roger Putnam have gone to great lengths to put this guide together for all of us to use and enjoy.  Go on line and buy this great book at the link below.

Syndicate content