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|Submitted by Tom Evans on Wed, 10/01/2014 - 22:45|
ElCap Report 9/30/14
By Tom Evans
Yo… Solid Fall climbing weather has set in and the Bridge crew has seen a rush of wantabe Freerider/Salathe free teams, swarming over the route on practice runs. The lower part of the Nose is infested with teams with questionable talent, hauling big bags and big dreams. The rest of the Cap goes virtually unused. So now that Fall is in full swing, this is the time for the rest of you, holding back, to get your sorry butts here and up on the Captain!! Cubicle Pukes!! Unshackle your chains and run for the door! Just tell them that Tom said it was ok!
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!
Bad to the Bone: The Canadian’s must still have a good supply of beer and wine as they seem in no hurry to finish the route. We figured they would be off by today but it may be 2 more days!! I think they have been up there almost 2 weeks now.. their odor must be off the scale by now.
Zodiac: Jeff and Caleb are making good time up the route and I suspect they will bivy at the MOZ or higher tonight.
1) Here they are climbing into the Circle this morning.
2) Around 2pm they were in the middle of the White Circle about to do the Nipple pitch.
Virginia/Trip: Neil and Maria are just moseying along, in no hurry it seems… maybe some of that “Pete” rubbed off on Neil when they did Continental Drift a couple of years ago!
3) Maria cleaning off the bivy belay this morning.
4) Later in the day she was spotted, from way out west, cleaning another pitch.
Nose: A large gathering of very well equipped gumbies are on the route along with a few vets from other wall campaigns.
5) The lead team from yesterday, Mark Grudon YMS guide and client, climbed from ECT to C4 while I was there. It is always a good idea for the second to keep a close eye on the ropes when lowering out… here the focus was stronger than usual! Nice job Mark!
6) The NIAD team of Deano and Shayna Brown (you recall them from their climb of the Salathe last week) cruised up the lower part of the route this morning. Deano easily cleared the KS and managed to toss Shayna a line to help her across, as doing the swing with a pack is always harder than without. The long toss was caught on the first try! CATCH OF THE DAY!
7) Higher up Doug and Dennis bivied at C4 and had finished the Roof when I left. Here Doug is leading the pitch to the start of the Roof. Their progress is not as rapid as expected and one Gene Malone, is wondering if Doug will have enough time to climb Lurking Fear, when he gets off the Nose.
8) Afternoon… waiting it out in the Legs.
9) Hot Dog climbers, Pete Whitaker and Tom Randall, are seen here working out the moves on El Corazon this afternoon. They climbed the lower Muir to get here.
10) Son of Heart: Mark Hudon is seen here leading over the Heart while Skot Richards tends the belay, this afternoon.
Salathe/Freerider: As mentioned at the start, the route is seeing a lot of practice climbing with miles of rope fixed from above. Who’s who is anyone’s guess!
11) ElCap Spire is seen here hosting climbers on top and bottom.
12) Don’t tell me there is no romance in wall climbing. Niels Tietze and girlfriend Liz exchanged a kiss at the belay above the Spire! GET A ROOM!!
13) I am not sure who this dude is, mini-tractioning a fixed line to Sous le Toit ledge today, but the man looked strong and fast. Here he is dipping in for some “white courage” (chalk).
In other news: It would appear that another suitor for the woman’s solo Nose speed record has arrived in town..stay tuned for all the breaking news.
So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 30th day of September, 2014.
More to come…