|Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 09/28/2012 - 01:41|
ElCap Report 9/27/12
By Tom Evans
Yo… Same old same old with the weather. Will it ever rain again? The rock is seeing some interest on the Big Trades with the exception of Genesis. The Facelift has sucked some teams off schedule but they will have their day. Fall colors are starting to come into form but have far to go yet. The maples on N and S side drives are starting to turn yellow and my favorite Sugar Maple has a few leaves turning now but it is no where near what it will be in a week or two.
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you… unique in all the world!
Zodiac: Brits, Guy and Vic, climbed the Nipple this morning after a bivy at it’s base. I think they could make Peanut Ledge tonight but not the top unless they push the issue. They are doing well thus far.
Guy doing some Nipple wrestling as the sun comes on.
Vic turning the Nipple… or trying to turn it. He make it without too much trouble.
Trip: Oli Warlow continues to be in the smooth groove and will make the first bolt ladder by day’s end. For a 3rd big wall climb, and his second ElCap solo in two weeks he is performing well beyond normal expectations.
Lunch break high on the Trip.
Lower down the team of two from yesterday blasted this morning… maybe… and were getting ready to do the 4th as I departed. Wonder who they are… must have gotten the work on clothing colors… a good thing!
The cramped, hanging belay on the Sombrero.. Remember the Black Cat is watching!
New Dawn: Ken and Tom did make LLL last evening and were spotted climbing above this morning. I think they will make ECT and maybe fix one above this evening.
Tom leading above LLL while Ken tries to be invisible.
ND/Genesis: Pete and Jon say that there is some hard climbing up there… and they should know! They are 3 from joining WEML just below the Harding Roof. Amazing rock up there… the geologist's, seeing these photo’s, must be freaking out!
Pete and Jon above last night’s bivy.
Pete leading past “The Sweetness” crack on Disorderly Conduct which takes that seam to the left, up that incredibly smooth wall. Amazing!
Hauling kit to the start of some awesome corners heading high up on the face. Amazing squared!
Nose: The two guys miles from Dolt yesterday did in fact arrive there last night. Today they climbed to ECT and were doing the Boot as I left at 3pm. They would be wise to fix and stay at the Tower tonight. They are slow… but we all know by now that persistence and tenacity are more important than speed, in getting up ElCap!
Higher up the 4 man team, that crossed over from the 3D yesterday, made the top early this afternoon.
Happy day!!! Hauling kit to the top of the Nose this afternoon.
Salathe: Still the most popular route on the wall and there seems to be no shortage of suitors. Freerider is calling and seems to have a lot of numbers to call! I saw a team of two…dressed in all the wrong colors… climbing the Headwall this morning and into the afternoon.
Lower down there was a team above the Boulder problem headed to the Block.
Lower down yet a team from yesterday bailed from the Alcove.
BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!! STILL... LOVED THE COLORS!!
In other news: I hear that the shows at the facelift were not so crowded as the first night and it was possible to actually get enough oxygen inside to sustain life! Lots of Facelifter’s on the side of the roads and in the woods looking for that illusive piece of trash.
The Bridge had a good crew there and was fairly busy. Scott Deputy took the shift there today so I could have some time to myself.
I hear that the Fresno Bee newspaper is doing a little ditty about the Bridge scene in tomorrows edition.. So if you are able to … take a look!
So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 27th day of September, 2012. Chow… no.. not the dog… but where I am going now… to the Lodge Café.