ElCap Report 9/27/12

ElCap Report 9/27/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… Same old same old with the weather.  Will it ever rain again?  The rock is seeing some interest on the Big Trades with the exception of Genesis.  The Facelift has sucked some teams off schedule but they will have their day.  Fall colors are starting to come into form but have far to go yet.  The maples on N and S side drives are starting to turn yellow and my favorite Sugar Maple has a few leaves turning now but it is no where near what it will be in a week or two.  
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Brits, Guy and Vic, climbed the Nipple this morning after a bivy at it’s base.  I think they could make Peanut Ledge tonight but not the top unless they push the issue.  They are doing well thus far.
1)  Guy doing some Nipple wrestling as the sun comes on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Vic turning the Nipple… or trying to turn it.  He make it without too much trouble.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trip:  Oli Warlow continues to be in the smooth groove and will make the first bolt ladder by day’s end.  For a 3rd big wall climb, and his second ElCap solo in two weeks he is performing well beyond normal expectations.
3)  Lunch break high on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the team of two from yesterday blasted this morning… maybe…  and were getting ready to do the 4th as I departed.  Wonder who they are… must have gotten the work on clothing colors… a good thing!
4)  The cramped, hanging belay on the Sombrero.. Remember the Black Cat is watching!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Dawn:  Ken and Tom did make LLL last evening and were spotted climbing above this morning.  I think they will make ECT and maybe fix one above this evening.
5)  Tom leading above LLL while Ken tries to be invisible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ND/Genesis:  Pete and Jon say that there is some hard climbing up there… and they should know!  They are 3 from joining WEML just below the Harding Roof.  Amazing rock up there… the geologist's, seeing these photo’s, must be freaking out!  
6)  Pete and Jon above last night’s bivy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Pete leading past “The Sweetness” crack on Disorderly Conduct which takes that seam to the left, up that incredibly smooth wall.  Amazing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Hauling kit to the start of some awesome corners heading high up on the face.  Amazing squared!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The two guys miles from Dolt yesterday did in fact arrive there last night.  Today they climbed to ECT and were doing the Boot as I left at 3pm.  They would be wise to fix and stay at the Tower tonight.  They are slow… but we all know by now that persistence and tenacity are more important than speed, in getting up ElCap!

Higher up the 4 man team, that crossed over from the 3D yesterday, made the top early this afternoon.
9)  Happy day!!!  Hauling kit to the top of the Nose this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  Still the most popular route on the wall and there seems to be no shortage of suitors.  Freerider is calling and seems to have a lot of numbers to call!  I saw a team of two…dressed in all the wrong colors… climbing the Headwall this morning and into the afternoon.  
Lower down there was a team above the Boulder problem headed to the Block.  
Lower down yet a team from yesterday bailed from the Alcove.
10)  BAIL OF THE DAY!!!!!   STILL... LOVED THE COLORS!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  I hear that the shows at the facelift were not so crowded as the first night and it was possible to actually get enough oxygen inside to sustain life!  Lots of Facelifter’s on the side of the roads and in the woods looking for that illusive piece of trash.
The Bridge had a good crew there and was fairly busy.  Scott Deputy took the shift there today so I could have some time to myself.
I hear that the Fresno Bee newspaper is doing a little ditty about the Bridge scene in tomorrows edition.. So if you are able to … take a look!
So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 27th day of September, 2012.  Chow… no.. not the dog… but where I am going now… to the Lodge Café.
Capt. Tom
   

 

Oli Warlow

That is my son up there! Just discovered your website. Good way in Edinburgh to keep in touch with what the boy is doing.

ND 2 Genesis

Lambone I was asked not to tell but they told me they were going to throw
in a bandaloop performance up high with lots.of room for interpretation.

That's some mighty fine pictures Tom.

See you soon iim in El Portal pop 623 and well its hot here. My face lift will be me drinking a beer
Throwing it on the ground in front of me and then picking it up.

Thurs, Sept 27, notes from PTPP and Jon...

Thanks...! We were totally wondering what that thin crack is to our left. Thanks, Tom, it does indeed look PDD - Pretty Darn Disorderly.

Jon woke me up early and made me get out on lead - sheesh. Fortunately, the A4 was more like A3, until the Golden Corner which is the real deal - tricky reachy top steppy technical thin nailing, placing two heads and also blew out part of flake. Occasional rivets keep it from being full on... Def'ly A4, the real deal.

I'm becoming an expert in upward nailing under roofs so cheers to Mark Hudon for the sling thru the top pecker hole trick...A (sic) #1 rivet hanger failed when...my lead crab was like 6" from the anchor bolt and I took a 25' whipper! I hope Tom got that photo. Fully deployed my yates screamer. Silver...you owe me a 2-4 for that one.

(Pete about Jon) The lad can climb! He made the 5.11 look easy!

?

what the heck is going on in that first picture of Pete and Jon???

Great pics Tom! see ya in a couple weeks.
lambone

Some rock, indeed...

Those shots of Genesis with Pete and Jon are superb. Thanks for keeping us posted down here in "cube-land." Have fun out there and keep up the great work this season!

Carol

Cosmos?

Are Sky and Amanda off?
 
Yeah, they were hanging at the Bridge today (9/29/12) and I saw them at the Facelift last night (9/28/12)  Tom