ElCap Report 9/24/2022

ElCap Report 9/24/2022

By Tom Evans

Yo… Yep, I have returned for the Fall season and plan on being here, in the ECM, until November. I arrived on Thursday 22 September to find perfect weather for climbing ElCap!  You know what that means…. Cubicle Pukes, arise, leave your confines and get your sorry butts to the Valley of Adventure. I am here if you can’t make it, so you can still send with the senders and bail with the bailers on the ECR! The annual Face Lift is just about over after another successful year. As in the past, I will not be posting daily reports but plan to post solid coverage every couple of days. Stay tuned for all the latest news from the Epicenter of American big wall climbing!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac: On 9/22 I spotted a husband and wife team, on vacation, climbing into the great White Circle.






























2)  I did notice a couple of guys hauling kit up to Heart Ledge on their way to the Shield on 9/22.






























3)  On the Nose I spotted a team of speedy NIAD climbers, Alan Shanoski and Michelle Pellette, turning the Great Roof on 9/22.






























4)  I did get a nice shot of some local boys out for breakfast in the ECM on 9/23.






























5)  I got this shot of Camden Clements, a YMC guide, leading his client up the pitch after the King Swing, on the Nose 9/22.






























6)  Camden lead the Lynn Hill traverse on the pitch in shown in 5. This is a very popular variation from the regular route as it goes free at a reasonable grade and is faster than the traditional pitch up to the pendulum.






























7)  Lower down I spotted this team climbing the long 5.9 pitch up to the Jardine Traverse on the way to ElCap Tower. 9.23






























8)  As usual, the Nose has the most climbers on it.  So, King Swings abound and this climber is seen here learning to fly.






























9)  The Shield is seeing some action as Danford Jooste and Matt Bernstein made short work of the route in a push on 9/23. Here Matt is leading over the famous Roof pitch.





























10)  The next three shots are of Matt taking a plunge off the pitch above the Triple Cracks.  He went for a long ride… I judged to be close to 50 feet!  Yippie!! He can fly!  Notice the Canoe, up and left in the shots.






























11)  Matt airborne.






























12)  Matt wondering when he will stop falling.






























13)  The rope stretch sent Matt banging into the wall and we were concerned he might have a debilitating injury.  Danford came up and determined Matt was ok and got him up to the belay.  Matt was tied in with a clove hitch that immediately cinched down and locked on his biner tie-in and took some time to release.  After a few minutes Matt felt good enough to continue leading his block and they were off by dark.  Like they say…. All is well that ends well.






14)  You ECR followers will remember Marek Reganowcz from past difficult solo ascents of some quality routes.  He is here now and put on a well-received program at the Face Lift on 9/23.  He started this morning on, “Nightmare on California Street,” surely a contender for the most difficult climb on the Captain.  We will be following his progress so stay tuned. Earl Bates photo of Marek.































In other news:  The weather forecast looks great for the next 8 days and climbers are heading for the great rock.  At the moment most routes are empty and await your presence


So that’s the way it is, on this Saturday, the 24th day of September, 2022.

Capt. Tom… back in the Valley… just for you.

Matt's whipper

Relieved that Matt was not banged up too badly and able to continue. That just shows the fortitude one needs to dig deep for to continue upward instead of bailing which may have been a very long tedious affair. And speaking of 'married couples climbing', I wonder if the husband and wife team will still be 'Husband & Wife' after their climb is finished ? Ha !
Thanks Tom for keeping us updated !... Mtn Tradman.pitons


Amazing you caught that fall! Also the climber in the sunlight on shield roof.

From Tom... Cross lit shots, like the one in shot 9, are kind of a speciality of mine,

                     as I know the cliff and lighting so well I can wait for the right moment to shoot

                     already knowing what the outcome will be.