ElCap Report 9/24/12

ElCap Report 9/24/12
By Tom Evans

Yo… Seems like Fall is in the air now.  Leaves are turning on the main drags but as usual in dry conditions the big oaks are just turning brown and falling off.  Maples and Aspen are saving the day so far.  The Facelift is about to start so the reports may be a bit late coming to you.  Nice conditions on ElCap and good routes are getting done.
Today’s ElCap Report…. written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  Yep the old Zode is back on the report.  A couple of guys climbed off the deck with a small bag and were last seen leading the 4th this afternoon.  Maybe fixers or blasters… don’t know yet.
1)  Blue and Grey team on Zodiac’s 4th.





























Trip:  The crew from the past several days did make it off and now we have Oli Warlow… the guy from the first report of the Fall who soloed Zodiac over 7 days.  He couldn’t find a partner so he is solo on the Trip!
2)  He did the direct start over two days and here is a shot of him almost to the belay at the top of the 4th.




























ND/Genesis:  Jon and Pete are making progress and Jon says they will be off by Friday… we will see.  If you can contact Jon please tell him to ditch that tan shirt or just put the yellow T-shirt over it when climbing.  He is screwing up the shots with his clothing!
3)  I got this shot from over by Manure Pile Buttress this morning.





























4)  Jon lead off the bivy this morning and clipped a lot of rivets but not before he had to do some hooking, shown here, on the pitch.



























5)  Jon hauling kit to the belay in the afternoon.






























6)  Nose:  Noticed a couple of teams in the Legs this afternoon.  This was the lowest.





























Higher up the guys from yesterday climbed above Camp 4 toward Camp 5 this afternoon.
7)  This shot is the recently dangerous upper section of the Pancake Flake pitch.




























Salathe:  The two climbers I shot yesterday were not visible from the Bridge and were gone by the time I got out west.
8)  The Japanese are moving slowly up the route and did the Monster crack this morning late.





























Lower down and right on the tails of the Japanese I spotted a team of two very well dressed climbers.  They were on the Ear when I departed.

Cosmos:  Skiy and Amanda are slowly putting the pitches behind them and look to have several days before they are off.
9)  Amanda clearing the belay this afternoon.




























Pretty shot of the Day!
10)  Bleeding hearts at Ansel Adams Gallery in 1997.




























In other news:  I haven’t heard the exact time for the women who did the Nose record and Half Dome in a day but hear they took the overall record too.  Nice work ladies!  Very sedate at the Bridge today.
So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 24th day of September, 2012.
Capt. Tom


Amazing photos!

Your photos are all so amazing...keep it up! Our family is glued to your site.
Amanda's mom

Love those bleeding hearts...Aren't they lovely?

Great picture, Tom. Wish I was there. Thanks for all your hard work. So appreciated back here in "cube land".


ND to Genesis - from the wall...

PTPP asked me to post this from Monday, Sept. 24

Yesterday’s P5 aid lead was hard for sure, every bit as hard as P3’s. The Blade, if knott harder. Was quite gripped! Some stout hooking on P5 but now without the ‘enchantments.’ Enjoying my day off as we search for the mythical Schneiderado Ledge , to be somewhere to the north, where everyone talks like Cali hippies and the wine – Genesis – is paired to the wall.

unknow comics

Hi Tom,

Curious if you have seen a party of four "unknown comics" (Dave, Brian Chris & Keith) that started yesterday heading up Triple Direct? Dig your web site - very informative and gorgeous pic's...Thanks!!!

All my best,
Kim (Keith's curious wife)


Thnk the two guys on Zodiac are Vic and Guy from England

Austin, TX, crew on the Nose?

Waiting to see Adam and two others on The Nose. Hopefully they stopped by the bridge and introduced themselves so we get a good play-by-play.

Thanks for the reports, Tom!
Long time lurker

Austin, TX

I think your thinking of a crew of four (JP, Adam, Alex, and Jacob) from Austin that are not on the nose but on Lurking Fear.

Tan Fox

I'll give Fox a call this morning and see if he has his one piece pink Lycra climbing suit with him.

He told me friday and beers on the bridge so he's either about to start the night climbing or we will see him Sunday morning for pancakes n beers.

Thanks again Tom check your email please.

Tan Fox

I sent him a text too and told him you wanted him to lose the tan shirt man!

Pancake Flake

You said the "recently dangerous upper section of the pancake flake". What made it dangerous?
There is a thin section at the end and a few have fallen from it and hit the ledge below... one was the big rescue in the spring with broken hip, elbow, ribs etc.  So be careful with that small crack.... it likes to spit out gear!!  Tom


Yo Tom, Thanks for the pics and the updates. Always nice to see whats happening on the bridge.

Teddy Bear

More great shots, Tom.

More great shots, Tom. Thanks.


The captain calls... -Dave

The captain calls...