ElCap Report 9/22/2019

ElCap Report 9/22/2019

By Tom Evans

Yo… Splendid weather has been holding firm here the first several days of my stay. But next week some rain is in the forecast and we are hoping it will not disrupt the Face Lift.  The action on ElCap has been mostly on the big trades with the exception of the huge rockfall scar from a couple of years ago, which you saw a shot of in the last report.  More on that below.  Climbers are coming now for the Face Lift and we expect for things to pick up after the clean-up if the weather holds.  Ok people, a lot of you are showing up on the cliff wearing gray, black, and other dark colors… not good for photos… so don’t expect to have your pic on the report if this describes you.

Today’s ElCap report… written just for you…unique in all the world!

1)  Brandon Adams seen here cleaning the first pitch into the upper rock fall yesterday.  I spoke with him this morning and he was very positive about the proposed route going up. However, he had a problem while rapping down a pitch yesterday as a large flake come off and in a freak occurrence it actually cut the leash to his hammer and it was lost down the cliff!































2)  Later in the afternoon, yesterday, he reached a good ledge about half way up the upper scar.  He spent the night there after losing his hammer and rapped off this morning.






























3)  The solo Hungarian, Aron Urbanics, on Zodiac finished the route this afternoon.  Here is a shot of him yesterday finishing the Mark of Zorro pitch.































4)  Over on Mescalito, Kelly and Roddy are moving along nicely.  Here Kelly is hauling kit to the belay after the Seagull pitch this afternoon.































5)  Roddy is seen here fighting his way up a small jungle on the pitch after the Seagull.  For some reason both are wearing packs while leading, and cleaning, even though they are hauling kit.






























6)  Lots of action on the Nose, which has had several choke points and thus is slow going these days.  Here is a team later in the afternoon, yesterday, on Texas Flake.




































7)  The 3D is getting some action as the way around traffic on the lower Nose.  Here Paul Gagner is leading the traverse at the so called “Crossroads”, yesterday, while Sunny Stroeer belays.






























8)  This afternoon I saw Sunny lead the notorious pitch into Camp 5 while Paul is seen here cleaning.  Nose route.































9)  Here is a shot of a team leading to the Glowering Spot.  Notice the huge feature on the wall to the left… The Camp 5 Surfer!  Also notice the King Kong chimney on the upper left of the shot.  Nose route
































10)  A team later in the day, is seen on the Great Roof, Nose route.
































11)  I did spot this very nicely dressed leader on the long pitch on the way to Gray Ledges, on the Triple Direct (3D).
































12)  I spotted this team my first day here, while they did the Hollow Flake.  In this shot they traversed under the roof to finish Free Rider this afternoon.































13)  Erik Sloan (Yosemitebigwall.com) has had a huge, very hi rez shot of ElCap, with the routes and major features printed on it.  The meadow crew was impressed and spent some time looking it over.  Contact Erik if you are interested in obtaining one of these great 40 x 60 inch prints.
































14)  Perhaps you remember the “Thumbs Rescue” from 2011 that received national interest. Michael, with thumb attached, showed up with his partner, Kelly, and hung out in the meadow with the crew.  They are off to do the Salathe, starting in the next few days.
































In other news: Face Lift people are coming into the Valley now and it is great to see friends of all ages again. 

Saturday traffic was a bear yesterday so be aware of crowded roads on the weekends.

Plan accordingly if you are interested in climbing the Nose… it is getting a lot of use these days.

Pete and Hayden made EC Tower this afternoon and will be coming down the Real Nose as Hayden has a deep cut on one of his hands.

So that’s the way it is on this Sunday, the 22nd day of September 2019.

Capt. Tom… here for the duration.


Glad to have you back!

Strong start to the season! Keep 'em coming!

Helo Tom, please keep up the report...

Shsss...our good friend Ottawa-Doug is on the way....

Thanks Tom! The cubicle

Thanks Tom! The cubicle pukes appreciate you!

Charlie H.


Glad to see the report back up with frequent updates!

Thumb rescue

The one who was plucked off near pankcake flake when his thumb was caught in his aider?


From Tom:  Yes it is!