ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/21/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Beautiful here but rather warm.  Thus, traffic on most of the EC routes is almost nil.  The two big trades are taking all the traffic right now.  With the Face Lift starting tomorrow I imagine most climbers will be doing some volunteer work and not a lot of climbing.  The Bridge was very quiet with just climbers in evidence, not a bad thing!
Today’s ElCap Report will be a brief one and this may be the case for the next week or so.
Today’s Report…. Right now… unique in all the world… just for you..

Trip:  Doug and Mike made the bolt ladders early this afternoon and will probably bivy at the end of the last one.  They are on cruise control now.  Off tomorrow!
1)  Ottawa Doug high on the Trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the Solo in white from a couple of days ago, bailed.  He has been replaced with a what seems to be a team of three who climbed and hauled to the top of two today but stopped there.  I imagine the heat there was oppressive.

Nose:  The two teams from yesterday were seen on the last pitch early in the afternoon.  I can’t see into the route from the Glowering spot to the start of the alcove so I don’t know about anyone else.

Lower down three teams were in the stove legs with one getting to DT by 2pm and the other a couple of pitches away at 3:30 when I left.  A third team was seen to tie their bags to the top of the Stoveleg bail ropes and make for the the ground.  Several teams are jockeying for position around Sickle ledge  with ropes fixed to the ground and bags hauled.  It could get crowded low down on the route.
2)  Frog in the Stovelegs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shield:  Chris had a half day off yesterday and was back at it today early.  She climbed to Chickenhead ledge, arriving there early in the afternoon.  The Brits who just got off said there was a good amount of water there and at Chiefton ledge too, so with this heat wave setting in she should be ok if she was getting a bit short.  You got to love this girl!!!  The Bridge Crew is way impressed with her climbing and attitude.  Maybe two more days for her.
3)  Chris packing up and moving out on the Shield.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Chris heading to Chickenhead ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Taking in ,the view from Chickenhead ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Albatross:  A solo climber with some colorful kit, including a blue barrel, was heading for Grey ledges today as I caught his profile a couple of pitches above Mammoth.  Should be interesting to watch him do the route.
Who is this guy?  He is Kevin Andrews, I shot him doing ZM a couple of years back... he did a drive-by a couple of days ago and yelled "Albatross" out the window but with my slowly degenerating brain the event was lost in the confusion of the bridge.  Really a nice guy and a tough Dude too!!  Best wishes for safe climb!
6)  Kevin heading to the Albatross.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see a team of two go off the Block this morning and climb to Sous le toit ledge, closely followed by the Swiss and Belgian mixed team.  They were headed to the Roof when I left.
8)  Swiss leader Cedric in yellow… those guns…my God those guns!  They are working pretty good as he has thrown down an on site free climb of the route!!  Congratulations!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below them Brian and Sandra were hanging around the Alcove.  Sandra top roped the Monster crack just after the sun reached it… I think they are up on the route to work on free climbing.
9)  Sandra in the jaws of the Monster.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Chris, Dave and Scott were back from their 32 hour push on LA and basked in the glory here at the bridge today.  They looked good after the climb and we had a good time hearing about their adventure.  Several other climbers hung out and we all had a good afternoon.
10)  Scott, Dave and Chip, Heroes of El Capitan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is for this the 21st day of September, 2009.
Later Ansel Evans