ElCap Report 9/19/12

ElCap Report 9/19/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Our long national nightmare is finally over …. The Nose is jammed with climbers and other teams are showing up daily! Still a bit on the warm side with the nights cooling off a bit. Plenty of action on the cliff today and there will surely be more in the immediate future.

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chentel Astorga made a practice run on the Nose today in preparation for a shot at the record in the next few days.  BUT....Read about it below!!

Today’s ElCap Report …written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Ian and Aaron climbed from the top of the Circle today and were last seen heading for Peanut ledge. The team is going good and will be off mid day tomorrow.

1)  Turning the Devil’s Brow this morning.




























Trip: A two man team was spotted at the top of the 2nd this morning but I didn’t actually see them climb anything…. Talking it over perhaps.

Mescalito: Bret, Josh, and Cam showed up today and climbed from the top of the 4th to the 6th pitch while I watched.

2)  Climbing the 5th on Mescalito.




























ND to Genesis: The partners bivied a pitch apart last night and didn’t do much until afternoon when Jon Fox climbed the pitch to LLL. I didn’t see them haul all the kit there but assume they will stay at that comfortable location for the night and maybe beyond.

3)  Jon getting his part of the kit in order late in the morning.





























Nose: The hoards have suddenly decided the King needed their attention and they showed up in their legions!

Mayan and Chantel got an early start on a possible run at the woman’s speed record. I know when they finished but not when they started so I don’t know the outcome just yet but as usual will post up when I find out. They climbed well and I think they just might have gotten it or were really close. They are planning another run in a few days. Actually they are training for the link-up with ElCap and the Dome. Fortunately they broke through a log-jam of climbers lower down to break into the clear by the Stovelegs.

Breaking news... just in... the women's Nose record fell today at the hands of Mayan and Chantel... they posted a 10:10 on their first run!!!  Sweet!!!  Congrats to them!!

4)  Mayan leading the team though the Grey Bands.





























5)  Mayan belaying from the corner of the Great Roof while Chantel leads out of view above.




























6)  John Dickey came in from the top to shoot the women on the last pitch.





























When I arrived at the Bridge there were of all kinds of teams crammed together in the Legs. It was something to see. I think I saw three wall style teams and believe it or not…. 4 NIAD’S! Yep 4 NIAD’S. The NIAD’s blitzed through the wall teams and then they got jammed in the Grey Bands, later in the day. The only NIAD guys I knew up there are Scott Deputy and Luke Malatesta. They were at the back of the line but motored into second place as the day progressed.

7)  Wall teams battling it out in the Legs this morning.





























8)  Scott Deputy throws a heroic pose while climbing the Boot Flake.




























Scott and Luke worked a different solution to the King Swing. Luke went to the top of the Boot as Scott lead above in the Grey Bands. Then Luke just stepped off the Boot and jugged up to Scott. Pretty cool. Actually YMS guide Scott Stowe uses this system all the time but others have been slow to accept it.

9)  Scott leading past the swing as Luke heads to the top of the Boot.



























10)  Another NIAD party very low on the King Swing. He jugged back up to the Band then went across.




























11)  Scott and Luke bringing up the rear as the NIAD’s started to jam up.




























12)  Salathe: I did spot a team on Lung Ledge getting ready for the move to the Hollow Flake.




























Albatross: Joe and Neil hoofed down to the line up to get more water… to return tomorrow.

Cosmos: Where are Skiy and Amanda?… the world wants to know!

13)  Blast from the Past. My first big wall climb. South Face of the Column with Bob Williams in May of 1969. Notice the rack.



























In other news: Most of the YOSAR climbers gathered and spent the day at the Bridge in support of Chantel and Mayan, Scott and Luke. We cheered the teams on and even the Tourons got into it. We had a loyal group of Tourons who really got into the woman’s speed climb and they cheered right along with us.

14)  Even the kids want to see!!
























15)  Alex Honnold showed up late and talked to a young fan and his dad for a time. The crew had a good day … any excuse to hang out and party is a good excuse!

















So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 19th day of September, 2012.

The action will only get better as the weather cools, so stay with the Report for all the latest news.

Bye Bye,

Capt. Tom




How is it your photos get

How is it your photos get better every year? Thanks for these spectacular views of climbers on The Stone

Great stuff

Thanks for the great reporting you do. I'll be there to start Lurking Fear on Saturday. Group of four. Don't even know if you can get clear look from the bridge, but hoping the traffic stays on the trade routes. Crazy how times have changed. You guys were bad ass for what you did back then.

Kiwi Girl Power

Go Mayan!


Fawsome rack, TE!


I almost stayed over to watch from the bridge, but didn't sleep good, headed home instead. It was a pleasure meeting you and never expected to hear such good stories and lore and humor. Yur rack is just fawsome!

9 days till I leave Hood

9 days till I leave Hood River for the Valley!



…Like the beginnings of a great season.

Thanks Tom for keeping up my view.


nice shot of the Chicken Wing

nice shot of the Chicken Wing