ElCap Report 9/18/12

ElCap Report 9/18/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Nicer weather every day, and more climbers heading up to the great rock. However, the trees are blocking our view of some teams. I have asked the NPS to cut down about 12 trees so the view from the Bridge would be improved… they sent a psychiatrist to verify that I am, indeed, crazy! So there are teams still to be reported on when they come into view.

Today’s ElCap Report … written just for you…unique in all the world.

Zodiac: The most popular route on the hill, at the moment, is pulling the teams to it. The Green team of Spanish climbers was nearing the top this afternoon, when I departed.

1)  Leading the pitch to Peanut early in the morning.




























2)  Next to the last pitch on Zodiac.





























3)  East side boys, Ian and Aaron, were spotted leading into the Circle this afternoon and I figure they will stay beneath the MOZ tonight. Standard fare thus far.





























Mescalito: The three man team of Bret, Josh, and Cam blasted on the route this morning but I have not seen them above the trees yet.

4)  ND to Genesis: I did see Pete lead the 4th this afternoon and haul kit to the belay as I was leaving for the afternoon.  Jon fox lowering some bags out.





























Nose: Several teams are jockeying position in the vicinity of Sickle ledge. Scott Stowe and two experienced climbers are taking a run at the Nose, starting tomorrow.

The only team I saw climbing was Bud and Paul making a run at a NIAD for which they prepped last week. They looked real solid up to the end of the King Swing but slowed noticeably in the Grey Bands. They are shooting for 20 hours or less so were on schedule as I departed.

Update:  The men threw down a 17 hour NIAD and are psyched!!

5)  Paul Koubek leading the pitch above Dolt this morning.





























6)  Bud Miller getting a little help to finish the King Swing.





























7)  Bud doing the Lynn Hill traverse.




























Shield: Niels Tietze thought better of his solo of this classic route and rapped from the end of the Roof pitch this morning. It looked pretty scary to me but Niels is a rope ace and handled it with no problems.

8)  Big air on the Shield!





























We are a little short of shots on the Report so I am putting some old time shots up for your viewing pleasure.

9)  Tom Evans doing the King Swing in May of 1971. Photo by Paul Sibley.






























10)  Self portrait 1975.

























In other news: A lot of climbers came and went today with a strong YOSAR contingent, here to root Bud and Paul on and to check on Niels. It was fun!! Steve Gerberding and his two friends stopped by to hang out at the Bridge and talk about their Zodiac ascent. All in all it was a busy, but pleasant day here.

So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 18th day of September, 2012.

Later, Tom

King Swing May of 71

...that shot was taken before I was born, and so also without having the benefit of your great beta... Your technique looks better than mine yesterday... Thanks for all the great beta Tom! - Paul Koubek


Great shots Tom! Keep it up!
Love your vintage Nose shot, and those ~fancy!~ RR shoes.


Will you be able to get any shots of Amanda and Skiy on Cosmos?
 Amanda's mom
Certainly... assuming they get started some time this Fall!!!  Regards Tom

Wonderful. We really love

Wonderful. We really love your photography. Indiana doesn't provide much opportunity to see the amazing things those climbers can do.


Awesome pics Tom