ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/16/11
By Tom Evans

Yo… We had a very fine day here in the Ditch.  Cool breezes and comfortable temperatures have brought climbers to the rock.  Maybe the rain has taken its leave.  Lots of action up on the Big Stone today, with the King commanding the multitudes.  Hopefully with the return of good weather, and the Face Lift coming soon, there will lots of climbers in the Valley doing good things and renewing old friendships.
So listen up, Cubicle Pukes, armchair and computer “climbers,” because the Report is just a few sentences away and there is a lot to read about, including a NEW NOSE SPEED RECORD!!
 

Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…. unique in all the world!

Shortest Straw:  I saw a couple guys climb the first two pitches this morning with kit in tow.  Don’t know who they are yet.

Continental Drift:  I went out west to shoot this afternoon and had a good angle on the first few pitches of this route.  I saw the crew hauling, hauling, and hauling some more… not a surprise when Piton Pete is involved.  I have not had the pleasure of seeing anyone leading yet, but they should be high enough pretty soon to be visible from the Bridge.

 

Pacific Ocean Wall:  Adam, Jordan, and Bill are moving right along now and I figure they were on the 6th pitch when I departed.
1)  Organizing the kit on the PO Wall.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Bill lowering back to get some gear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mescalito:  Saw Phil Wesseler climbing above the top of the Bismarck this morning and into the afternoon.  I figure he will be off in two more days.
3)  Phil taking a look into the void from Bismarck Ledge.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower Down, Hugh and Duncan finished the long, right leaning corner up to the Molar this afternoon.  I suspect they will bivy at the end of the traverse tonight.  So far so good for these guys!
4)  Early start for Hugh and Duncan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  The King is loaded to the brim.  The two man Austrian team was seen climbing above the Glowering Spot this afternoon and will most likely be off late this evening.  Above them a three man team was seen topping out around noon.  Behind them, at about 1:30pm I spotted the all woman team of Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga clearing the top of the rock.  They started early this morning and passed miles of teams along the way.  They were in hopes of breaking the woman’s speed record of 12 hours.  I got to the Bridge early in hopes of getting them in the early sunlight but they were already on the Great Roof when I finished setting up.  They were killing it!  I just talked to them at the Café and they said they threw down a 10:40!!  Pretty good stuff, knocking almost one and a half hours off the speed record!
Congratulations… Chantel and Libby…. fastest Women up the Nose and ElCap for that matter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
5)  Libby leading the Great Roof while Chantel gets rested for her block to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down the Belgian TV team moved rapidly off their bivy at DT this morning.  With Stanley on the sharp end of the rope setting, and bag hauling there was no question about the logistics.  TV Tom seems to be moving along without hesitation and lived up to his claim that he would actually do the King Swing!  He did start the swing sort of prancing across the rock like a Jr. High girl, but quickly got serious and busted hard on several swings.  He did reach the end of the swing were a cameraman, Sean, was ready to snag and secure him to the ledge.  He is walking the walk, I will admit!
6)  Belgian team and others crowded at the bivy on Dolt Tower.  Sean in the plaid shirt, Nico in red, TV Tom in bright red.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Tom throws the Belgian stiff arm on the King Swing, as Sean photographs the move.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Safe at last… end of the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott Stowe and Ron Washington were last seen finishing the Great Roof around 3 and will bivy at Camp 5, as Scott always does on guided climbs.

8)  Stowe reaching for the belay on the Great Roof pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The mixed team stayed late on Dolt and labored to ECT by early afternoon.  They were caught be a team that came up from below and both teams were on ECT as I left.  

Below them…. OMG I couldn’t believe it… there were 4 wall style parties from the top of Sickle to the first pitch of the Legs.  They were all nearly static for the longest time.  I predict that at least two of the parties will not be there in the morning.  Hell, they may all bail!!
9)  OK let me get this written down … 4Cobras, 6 cheese burgers and 8 fries to go!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Lowering off the Sickle late in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did spot Mayan and Zack climbing from the Hollow Flake to the Spire today.  It went smoothly until the notorious pitch above the Ear kept tossing Mayan off.  She dogged it to the Alcove and I suspect will go back on it in the cool of the morning for the send.
11)  Mayan off the Salathe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team from a couple of days ago climbed from the Spire this morning and was seen leading to the Roof this afternoon.  Long ledge tonight.

I spotted Mason and Hondo on Freerider later in the morning.  They were in the vicinity of the Teflon Corner when I spotted them and were last seen doing the traverse from the Roof.  Off by now for sure.  Hoping for the send.

Hole World:  Ammon and Richie climbed by the watermark for most of the day and were last seen climbing over the dark bulge after the watermark.  The face looked really smooth from my angle and I suspect the routes name told the tale there.
12)  Ammon starting the pitch with miles of rivets, on Hole World.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lurking Fear:  I spotted three teams around the Grand Traverse but didn’t have the angle to see lower or higher.

In other news:  Nice at the Bridge with perfect temps and small crowds.  Timmy O’Neill and friends, Heath and Jeff, stopped by after racking up for the Nose in the company of Dave Turner.  Good to see Timmy again.
So that’s the way it is for this Friday, the 16th day of September, 2011.
Later,
Captain Tom