ElCap Report 9/15/12

ElCap Report 9/15/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Today I start what will be a lot of Reports for the Fall season. The long, hot days of summer are just about over. The Cap has seen some action this past week and we soon expect it to be burgeoning with climbers. BUT take heed, potential ElCap climbers. It is still pretty warm up there and only the most physically able to climb in the heat should be on the wall now. Thus, as you can imagine, the wall is pretty empty at the moment. In this report I will write about the climbers presently on the wall and some of those who have recently made noteworthy ascents… So saddle up, Cubicle Pukes, and get on board for the ride of a lifetime these next few weeks… I am here and you can be too, if only in cyberspace!

Today’s ElCap Report… written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodiac: This classic line has seen some action this past week with a couple of two man teams and a solo Brit named Oliver Warlow, who climbed it solo as his first ElCap climb!

1)  Oliver rappin down to Peanut ledge on his solo ascent of the route, over 7 days of climbing.




























 There is presently a three man team who have greeted me with all the colors I don’t like to see on the Cap… will they ever learn?!  I know who you are!!

2)  Leader in the middle of the Circle.





























3)  Hauling to the middle of the Circle this afternoon.




























4)  Native Son: Climbing ranger, Ben Doyle and partner, “no pants” Ben are finishing up this excellent route this evening. The nasty slime pitch below the Golden Finger of Fate has dried up completely now so they kept the rain gear in the bag!

Ben Doyle at the belay beneath the Wing yesterday.


























5)  Ben Doyle climbing out from under the Wing yesterday.




























6) “No Pants” Ben cleaning today on the last machine head rivet pitch this afternoon.





























7)  The traverse to the Golden Nipple pitch just before it intersects with the Trip’s exit pitches.





























Ned’s Excellent Adventure: British ace and nearly local, Neil Chelton, finished his solo ascent and the second over all ascent of this difficult route, in 12 days of climbing… Wow!!! And in crushing heat too!! The kid is tough, that’s for sure!!

8)  Neil a couple from the top on the last day of the climb.




























Nose: Several teams were seen on the King and its’ daughter, the 3D, this past week. The largest group is a team of 4 just finishing the route this afternoon, after 4 days climbing. They are YMS guides Aaron Jones, and Mark Grundon and clients, John and Elaine Yagi.

9)  The team at Camp 5 late yesterday.


























10)  John and Elaine getting ready to climb the last pitch, as Mark tends their belay above.





























The Salathe has seen some action and a few climbers have their sights set on Freerider now that the Sewer pitch is dry, for the first time in memory.

Out west Peyton and Stanley Hassinger, North Carolina climbers with big time ElCap creds, did a push on Never Never Land earlier this week.

11)  Peyton getting to some shade in the middle of the route. Hate that shirt!!



























12)  Mystery climb and pitch of the day. “Irish” Jane and local “bear girl” Adrianne Ghio (leading) climbed this route and pitch over three days this week.

What route and what pitch?




























In other news: Nice at the Bridge today with many Tourons and even a few climbers passing by. Remember that the Facelift is during the last week of the month and your support is welcomed. If you can’t make it in person then send a donation to the YCA website. BTW, Old Tom (that’s me!) can use all the donations you can send as the “Ask a Climber” program is going now but is unfunded. So if you enjoy the reports then donate what you can using the Donate button on the top left of the page! Many thanks!!!

So that’s the way it is, for this Saturday, the 15th day of Sept. 2012, the start of the Fall climbing season here in Yosemite.

Until tomorrow I remain,

Capt. Tom, your man on the scene and in the know.





thanks for the great photos, Tom! I received my the Posters you sent after you closed shop for the summer. Fantastic! I have them in my toddler son's room!



It's so amazing to be able to study routes on el Cap with these pictures. We need to get NASA or GOOGLE EARTH involved in this, taking rock climbing beta to a whole new level. Create an iphone app and make sure there is a good 4G signal on the wall. In the old days you just had to go up there and try to figure out where the route is supposed to go, lol. I wonder if anyone has freed that "Wings' pitch above. Is this a feature on Wings of Steel? It looks like an amazing position for a free pitch. If I wasn't such a weak climber, I'd run up there and free it myself.

Correction, it's 'the wing'

Correction, it's 'the wing' not 'wings'.

OMG Thank you Tom!!! I

OMG Thank you Tom!!! I needed that.


Back in Business

Great to have the eyes back on the cap.

Thanks for the view Tom

Your photos get better every

Your photos get better every year, Tom. It's great to have you back and posting, life is good!


Great Shots

I will be on El Cap soon Tom can't wait to c ya! Welcome back hope you will have a good season


Psyched you are back in action for the season Tom!

That shot of the 9 o'clock roof and nipple is real nice!

Neil, congrats on the 2nd ascent of Ned's, hope you had fun!


Way to go Oli!!

Great Job mate!

Thanks for the report Tom.
Russ @ Fish


Ahwahnee Ledge, WFLT
You got it for sure!  Tom