ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 9/15/09
By Tom Evans
Yo… Wow what a sweet day here in the Valley!!!  The Fall climbing season has officially started.  I don’t remember a more perfect day for climbing in the Yosemite Valley than today was.  Of course, this also means that those holding back for some reason now have to pony up or shut up.  We had good action today on several routes and more is coming as the lurkers have come out of the woodwork to play the big game.
Today’s report is brought to you by Hayden and JT who I watched climb the Nose with daylight to spare today!!
Here it is without the usual BS I spew…. Today’s ElCap Report… happening now…

Zodiac:  The two Koreans from yesterday didn’t actually blast yesterday as I thought but fixed to the top of 4 and were on the route today with bags in tow.
1)  Lower down a team of two did the first two by mid afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe and Trevor hiked the last of their loads to the base and were talking about blasting as they already had the first two fixed.
This great route is about to be come a conga line!

2)  Trip:  The team of three climbed to the 10th pitch as I departed today.  They are looking solid if not speedy.  Their prominent location made them the Touron favorites of the day and they were closely scrutinized.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lower down a team of three Norwegians fixed three yesterday and are blasting tomorrow.  Meanwhile a team of two fixed to three this afternoon… another conga line in the making?

The Nose:  The two Swiss chicks came by today after getting off the route yesterday.  They are Rachael and Gaby who had a great time and were none the worse for wear as they are off to hike to the top of the Dome tomorrow!
Today I saw a couple of NIAD teams smoking up the route, after early morning starts.
Hayden Kennedy, who did the route a few days ago, and his good buddy JT screamed up the climb and were off around 5pm with plenty of light to spare! 

3)  They caught a team from yesterday at the last pitch. Here is a shot of Hayden crossing the Grey Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Behind them came Eric Perlman and friend Paul who make good time but by early afternoon retired from the Boot Flake in good order.  Bail of the Day for sure!

4)  Eric streaking the king Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A team of two Norwegians, Leif and Ole climbed to ECT as I was leaving and behind them a team of three were slugging up the Legs with determination and effort.  Dolt for them tonight.  A couple of other teams were milling around Sickle Ledge.

5)  Sunkist:  The two teams who are playing butt tag on the west side of the Shield headwall are not on the Shroom as previously reported but on this great climb.  I haven’t seen an ascent of it for many years and had a blast shooting them this afternoon in great light!  Who are those guys?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salathe:  I did see a two man team, Wally and partner I think, climb across to Hollow Flake in the morning and on to the Ear later in the day.  They had done the Freeblast and hauled bags a couple of days ago.  Several teams are talking about going on the route but actions speak louder than words spoken from the Café!  I hear that a couple of SAR pukes are coming in from the top to work on Freerider but I didn’t see them from the Bridge.

6)  Hauling freight to Hollow Flake on the Salathe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  The season is really on now and lots of climbers are wandering around the bridge seeking information about the crowding conditions on the Cap.  I tell them all not to give that a thought… just get on the route now as some parties always fall by the wayside and clear a path for you.  I “ordered” a couple of teams off the Bridge today and told them if they didn’t get going on the climbs that I would ruthlessly slander them on the report!  It seemed motivation enough! 

The Tourons were as thick as bumps on a Leper today and were very interested and impressed with all we are doing to educate them about the sport of climbing.  They far outnumbered climbers and were well behaved and a pleasure to talk with.
 
Every season as I arrive in the Valley I wonder what will transpire on the Captain.  I know of nothing “special” planned for this season but when you think about it…. What could be more special than climbers reaching for their dreams and sharing their adventures with all of us?  That in itself is “special”!  You can never be sure how things are going to work out in life, you almost know, but not for sure!  So settle in and come along with me to see the greatest spectacle in the greatest pure rock climbing area in the world.  Follow all the daily action from the East Buttress to the West Buttress on the ElCap Report… unique in all the world.
So that’s the way it is for this the 15th day of September, 2009.
Signing off… Ansel Evans, your eye in the sky.