ElCap Report 6/4/13

ElCap Report 6/4/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… It started out sunny and warm, and about noon, a big cloud parked itself over ElCap and the temperature went down, and the light was great! I had the day off, so I parked myself in the meadow, in the company of several friends. I shot and we talked about what climbers usually talk about. Use your imagination! The light was everything it wasn’t yesterday and when the shade came on the details came out and the shadows vanished. Love these cloudy days!
Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!!
Zodiac:  Bryan Pyne and Corwin Diamond climbed off the route later in the afternoon. They climbed well and had a nice day to top out.
1)   Bryan and Corwin finishing the next to the last pitch early this afternoon, after the bivy on Peanut Ledge last night.
Tangerine Trip: Dan Hackett and Mike Kirby were on the route today fixing some for a blast off on Thursday.
2) That scary little hook move just before the belay on the 2nd pitch.
New Dawn to Tribal: Two parties are set to climb this route. Brit Andy Kirkpatrick, and Kiwi Steve Bate,are fixing but mostly lounging around the bridge eating Pizza and talking smack. They decided to let the Americans go first.
Max Jones and "Muscles" Mike Ierian(?) are in the process of hoofing tons of supplies to the route for their bid.
3) Mike, Max, Max’s wife and daughter, lending a helping hand with the kit hauling.
Nose: The Nose has a few teams on it at the moment.
4) The Ninja Stealth team of Drew Marshal and Ryan Grant, was spotted in the Legs this morning. Really? Really?... and after all the bitching I do about clothing on the Report!!
5) YMS Super-Guide, Scott Stowe and client were captured in this shot, climbing the short distance to Dolt Tower in early afternoon. Bivy on ECT.
Higher up, the team of Aaron and Jackson, from yesterday, were spotted making good time past the King Swing and were headed to the Great Roof as I departed. Camp 5 for them tonight.
PreMuir: Madaleine and Joe climbed across the traverse pitch to the end of the Muir part of the route this afternoon. They cleaned and hauled kit past the Stemming pitch early this morning.
6) They left a chalk heart in honor of Mason Robison, who died there two weeks ago. The climb is dedicated to his memory.
Shield: Yann Camus climbed onto the actual route after miles of approach pitches. He has made good time thus far and we look forward to getting some spectacular shots of him over the next few days.
7) Yann leading the Traverse pitch to the wildly exposed Shield Roof.
Sunkist: If you think Yann had a long approach, then think again. Mark and Cheyne have climbed miles of pitches and still aren’t even near the route!
8) Mark tried the squeeze above, but his enlarged head would not fit with his helmet on… so … here he is passing it back to Cheyne. He was then able to finish the short pitch.
Salathe/Freerider: Several teams are running on this track. 
9)  Mike, a guy I climbed close to on Zodiac in 1995, and Braydon Mayfield, were a pitch or so above Hollow Flake this morning, hauling kit.
10) Higher up, doing Freerider, are the Brits, Oli Lyon and Chris Bevins. They camped at the Alcove last night and headed above this morning. Here they are hauling kit to the top of ElCap Spire. Chris in red pants.
11) Higher yet are the Costa Rican team, of Alejandro and Gino, who are trying to be the first of their countrymen to climb ElCap. Alejandro has fashion sense while Gino is clueless! They are climbing well and will reach their goal!
12) Pete, Mark, and JP are well along on their trip up the West Buttress. They are at the Traverse now and all that remains to be seen is the logistics they will employ to deal with the kit! This shot is of Mark Winey at the belay before the traverse.
In other news: The weather has been forecast to be hot and hotter, however, we have been having a nice deck of afternoon clouds which are making things very nice. Nothing much more at this moment.
Attention: James Lucas, please stay away from the PreMuir, until after the next rain.
So that’s the way it is, for this Tuesday, the 4th day of June, 2013.
Signing off for now,
Ansel Evans

Costa Rican's Go Go!!!

Thanks for sharing on how are brothers are dispatching this!!! Please more pics.!!

Costa Rica

Pura Vida!

Go Yosemite Yann!!

Thanks for the updates and the great pics. The whole office is following closely.


Awesome! Another episode of ankle biter Hudon and his rope gun sidekick Cheyne. Hope that helmet fit back on the enlarge head.

Random Aussie with Nemo Van

Stoked to see updates on Chris and Oli's progress up Freerider! Also thank you very much for all your info and insight when I was there. I am so grateful to have been able to hang around and listen! Sad to hear of more tragedies and hope everyone is doing as well as can be expected. will forever check in to read and see your photos. Thanks Tom. Kim

Chris and Oli

Surely Chris and Oli are contenders for best dressed and most handsome team?

Thanks for your wonderful photos,


Great sense of humor!

I love your sense of humor coming through in today's report Tom. Keep it up!

Chalk heart

Nice work Madaleine and partner.

And Tom - ha! Someone make sure James doesn't have any toothbrushes available for a while!



That chimney is on Sunkist. They are on route.

Costa Rican Team

Ticos subiendo a El Cap! Qué Bueno! adelante maes!


p u r a V I D A c a p i t a n

T U A N I S I M O ~ M a e

S o l o B u e n o

mas Tico que la carreta!

Felicitaciones, amigos del pais de paz, sin armada, sin Guerra...


Los Primeros = si se puede, exito solamente...

Mateo de Chirripo (amigo de Eduardo)

Costa Rican Team

Going strong!!!! Thanks Tom... keep your lense on our guys!!!!


Looking forward to the Grand Traverse!