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ElCap Report 6/3/13

Submitted by Tom Evans on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 04:16
ElCap Report 6/3/13
By Tom Evans
Yo… Hot and muggy in the Valley today. I had the day off from the Bridge, so I hoofed it out to the EC Meadow and hid under a tree, while I shot. The conditions made for a lot of air turbulence, producing masses of swirling hot air that have the effect of a lens. A person can be standing right next to someone who is in perfect focus and yet that person can be an out of focus blob of color! The wind was up too and that shakes the big gun and adds to a lack of sharpness. Plus, the high position of the sun in the sky makes for long shadows, hiding details of the persons and their kit. Actually I hate to shoot in the Spring! Were it not for the ACP and the fact that my friends come to climb in the Spring, I would not be here. Now that I have all the excuses listed…. Just wait until Fall!!!
Today’s ElCap Report….written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: These guys, Bryan and Corwin, are moving along nicely and will be at Peanut Ledge for their bivy tonight. They look fabulous!!   A couple of other teams have sallied up to the route, but bailed.
1)   The Zodiac Team…. BEST DRESSED TEAM OF THE DAY!!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
The Trip is seeing some activity around the first few… I’ll keep you posted.
 
Nose: The most popular big wall route in the world is pretty empty at the moment. There are two teams on it… one down low and the other up high. The low team, Asron and Jackson, moved along well today, and were last spotted heading above Dolt to ECT. The higher team is composed of Zeb and Diana, who have proven to be fast climbers and sharp dressers… gotta like that Lycra!!
2) I last saw them climbing toward Camp 5.  This is of Zeb and Diana finishing Pancake Flake.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
3) Here is a wide shot of the area near them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
PreMuir: Madaleine and Joe worked the so called “stemming pitch” this morning and seemed to have some success after a time.
4) Joe Mills holding on tight on the stemming pitch.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Shield:  Yann is moving along well and seems to have the required determination to do the job.  He is in the orange and is a solo. Today I got a shot across the face as he climbed the Muir pitches to Grey Ledges. Behind Yann is Cheyne Lempe of the Lempe/Hudon, Sunkist Team, on the Magic Mushroom approach.
5) Youngsters at play!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Sunkist: Mark Hudon and Cheyne Lempe are headed up to the big air up on this beautiful route.
6) This shot shows them this afternoon on the sweet approach cracks to Grey Ledges.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
7) The “I don’t believe I’m doing this” team, hauling kit up Freerider… Oh the Humanity!!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Salathe/Freerider: Oli Lyon and Chris Bevins went on the FR route yesterday and today ran into another team who appear to be on the Salathe. They converged at the Ear. There were a couple of people higher but seem to be practicing.
8) Oli is coming up the line on the right, while Chris tends the belay on the left. The dude in the middle is
Alejandro, from the Costa Rican team.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
West Buttress: Pete and the boys are getting up there now and are a pitch below the start of the Grand Traverse. That may be as high as they camp with a possible tag the top push in a day or so.
9) Pete leading up the sweet corner leading to the Grand Traverse.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This evening we had a threatening thunder storm that has yet produced any rain. Sunset was sure beautiful.
10) Colorful, billowing clouds over Sentinel Rock, moments ago this evening.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
11) Sunset over Half Dome.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Yesterday’s terrible accident. I am restricted from reporting on such things until the NPS posts its’ news bulletin. It came out this morning and is a good, simple explanation, of what happened. Go to this link to read about it.
It was a terrible thing to see and we all were shocked at the severity of the event. Our heartfelt condolences go out to friends and family of the deceased climber. 
In other news: Not a lot of other news at the moment. Mostly we are just trying to get past the events of the past few days.
So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 3rd day of June, 2013.
Signing off, for now.
Captain Tom
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
#1Submitted by Anonymous on Wed, 06/05/2013 - 01:00.

Best dressed guys from Minnesota Bryan and Corwin

The guy in Orange is My son Bryan Pyne and the guy in Chartreuse is his climbing buddy Corwin Diamond. They topped out today.
Thanks for the great photos of them on their climb.

#2Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 23:10.

Yaan on the shield!

We gave Yaan a ride to the base, he was smiling and psyched! Go Yaan!

#3Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 18:47.

Salathe Wall

Hi Tom! The team leading the original pitch above, the dude in orange, is the team from Costa Rica I am following with your postings and comments!!! Please keep your lense on them!!!

#4Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 07:46.

The looner on Shield

Hi Tom, the looner on the Shield is Yann, i'm his wife and following your news and pics! Thanks!

Eve-Marie

#5Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 06:35.

The low team on the nose

Low team @ approx. 1500' up is 22 y.o. Aaron Ramras of Fort Collins, CO and friend Jackson.

#6Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 06/04/2013 - 04:49.

Stay up Tom!

Don't let it get you down.

-Ryan