ElCap Report 6/30/17

ElCap Report 6/30/17

By Tom Evans

Yo… This is the last Report for the Spring 2017 ElCap climbing season.  I would like to thank all those who have supported the Report with their donations this season.  If you have not yet gotten the shots I took of your ElCap climb then be sure to send me an email (use the contact button on this page) telling me what climb, when, colors of shirts and bags.  When you get your shots you can use the Donate Button, on this page, to make a donation to the site if you wish.  Many thanks!

This has been a strange season with all the varied weather, crazy road conditions, massive amounts of water raging through the Valley, rockfall closing roads and such.  There was not a lot of crowding on the Cap, as the population of wall climbers was down this Spring, most likely due to the heavy winter snows isolating the Valley until the Tioga Pass opened in late June.  We did have some “firsts”, including the first nude ascent of the Nose, done in a snappy 12 hours, and the first free solo of ElCap via Freerider, done in an awesome 3:49.


Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

The Nose saw a lot of NIAD’s this season and it appears that is an increasing trend.

1)  Josie McKee and Quinn Brett are seen here heading to the Stovelegs on their NIAD.































2)  Jeff (last name?) is at the part of the Great Roof that some climbers get a bit nervous about… the step across to the belay at the end of the pitch.





























3)  A few days after his solo I did see Alex Honnold on the last few of Freerider… solo of course!





























4)  Alex dusting off the last few difficulties at the end of Freerider.






























5)  Keiko Tanada out west on Lost World during her solo of Lost World to Squeeze Play.






























The next few shots are of Drew Smith and Robbie Brown on their climb of Zenyatta Mondatta.

6) Robbie on the A3 hooking start to the 5th pitch.






























7)  Cool rock at the bivy before the Lightning Bolt Roofs.





























8)  Drew is seen here leading the A4 pitch to the 9 O’clock roof.





























9)  Drew leading on some interesting looking rock on the 11th pitch.




























10)  Robbie cleaning the 11th pitch.






























Zodiac saw a lot of activity this season with teams of several nationalities making ascents.

11)  Matt Lambert, in yellow, with friends Randy and Zak at their bivy atop the 4th.  They later bailed from the top of 7 due to an injury to Randy while hauling.
































12)  Korean climber, O Rang, Park hauling kit to the top of the Nipple pitch during her solo climb of the route.




























13)  Two of this three-man Team Extreme crew, from Korea, are seen here at Peanut ledge on the day they topped out.  The other one is leading the pitch.






























14)  Over on Lunar Eclipse, Korean solo, Eun A, Kim is seen here on the 8th pitch.  She would later bail from here.  Excellent effort coming down too.































South Seas to Pacific Ocean route got some attention this season with the team of Justin Ray Cory and William Mcelroy making the only ascent.  Here are several shots of their ascent.

15)  Justin cleaning the outrageously steep first pitch of the route.  Notice his clothing… very nice colors… now why can’t other climbers figure out what to wear on ElCap?






























16)  Will giving the ElCap salute while leading off on the 4th pitch on SSPO.






























17)  Will leading to the Sharks Fin while below Justin hangs the banner they always put up on Fathers Day!





























18)  Justin tried and tried to make the Rubber Band Man pendulum but was unable to.  I think he swung too soon as others have gone from fixed gear a little further left of his pendulum point.  So… he ended up going lower and doing an aid traverse pioneered by Scott Peterson last year on Tempest.



























19)  Jonathan Fleury, famous for his and this season’s “it” girl, Leah Pappajohn’s, nude ascent of the Nose, climbed Mescalito, with a woman who’s name escapes me.  Here they are hauling and cleaning on the 16th pitch.  Yes, they were wearing clothing!





























20)  Parting shot…. As you leave the Valley, on Rt. 120 you will get this great view of Bridalveil falls and the Leaning Tower just before you go into the long tunnel leading to the Foresta turn off.






























In other news:  I departed the Valley on the 21st of June and am now at home.  I wish all of you the very best summer with safe adventures and lots of love shared with family and friends.  I will see you again in the fall when the river will be low, the mosquitoes gone, the tourist long gone, and the fall colors in their radiance. 

Capt. Tom… back into the real world.