|Submitted by Tom Evans on Thu, 07/01/2010 - 01:45|
ElCap Report 6/30/10 SPECIAL EDITION
By Tom Evans
Yo… I know, I know, I have stopped the report for the season …. But there was big doings on the Captain in the last 24 hours and I thought you might like to see what is going on. The weather is not bad for this time of year and it has been instrumental in the climbing going on now.
If you will miss the Reports then you might go back and start from the beginning of this Springs Reports and read one a day! That way you will be able to review the season and see the pics again... as they say .... some things are better the second time around!!
So here it is …. One last time this Spring…. I hope!!
Today’s ElCap Report…. written just for you…unique in all the world!
Zodiac: Yesterday the three man team of Adam, Jordan, and Brit, Andy Kirkpatrick, did this route in a push in 17 or so hours. They are a crazy crew and laughed all the way up, with Jordan only clipping into 4 pieces of gear on the Nipple pitch. Crazy boys!
Adam leads, while Andy, who lead from the ground to the top of the Black Tower, lets Jordan haul the freight into the White Circle on Zodiac.
Nose: Two NIAD teams were seen on the route this morning. One was Erik Sloan and Nate Beckwith and the other crew I don’t know, except for their atrocious clothing, meant to blend into the rock.
Erik leads off Camp 6 on the Nose as Nate belays. Notice the King Kong Chimney on the left side of the shot.
Nate, short fixed, cleans the Changing Corners, as Erik continues leading.
Other NIAD team member, at the top of Pancake Flake.
Salathe: I did see a team over there high on the route. Two guys who started a couple of days ago, were last seen climbing to Sous le Toit ledge, in the mid afternoon. Below them, a team of two was seen hauling bags to Heart Ledge, in blinding heat.
OK… THE BIG NEWS ….
Alex Honnold (aka Hondo) and Sean Leary (aka Stanley) started last night at 8pm to do the TRIPLE link up on ElCap. They climbed the Nose in 4 hours 15 minutes with Stanley taking the first half of the route and Hondo the second. The Zodiac boys watched them pass by their bivy, on top, just after midnight. They then went to the Salathe, which they did in 6 hours and some change, again splitting the climb into two big blocks. I saw them this morning as they came by the Bridge to fuel up for the last of the three climbs, Lurking Fear. Hondo looked the worse for wear, as he had driven up from LA yesterday, with no sleep before the climb. But some food and drink perked him up, and they soon were back at it. They departed the Bridge around 11:35am.
"Dude, where's the centerfold?" The lads checking the topo one last time!
Sean and Alex walking out, past my set up, on the Bridge.
“Dude, maybe we can squeeze in Astroman, after this!!”
I went way out west later in the afternoon to get some shots of them. The heat out there was awesome, and for the first time in my memory, the air was so turbulent that heat distortion ruined most of my shots!! I picked them up as Hondo short fixed Stanley to the end of the 6th and easily lead the traverse. Stanley jugged slowly but steadily, and Hondo didn’t look too crisp, but they were moving along, in spite of the heat. I was very impressed, as I got torched off the route 2 years ago, and almost died!!
Anyway, I shot them until Hondo got to the Pillar of Despair, and then the heat sent me packing. So at this moment I don’t know if they make it, but feel confident they did within the 24 hours. I left them at 3:30pm at the top of the 9th pitch. They have until 8pm to make it within 24 hours. EDIT They were seen eating pizza a bit after 8pm at the curry deck... so they did make it!!! Steve Schneider said they did a 23 hour climb as they slowed way down in the brutal afternoon heat.
Pretty cool stuff!!! Or maybe I should say, "Pretty hot stuff!"
Hondo starting the long traverse on the 7th pitch.
Long reach on the 7th pitch.
Stanley coming up, short fixed, as Alex continues in the lead.
Hondo, at the end of the 7th pitch traverse.
In other news: There is no other news!! I am supposed to be having a vacation from the report but can’t seem to leave it alone.
This is the last Report for the spring season…. FOR SURE!!!
Remember if you haven’t donated something to the Website for all of the interesting reporting and photos you have enjoyed then feel free to do so… all donations are appreciated and go toward keeping the site and the photography going.
So that’s the way it is on ElCap for this the 30th day of June, 2010.
Bye… and I mean that!!