ElCap Report 6/24/10Submitted by Tom Evans on Fri, 06/25/2010 - 03:54 |
ElCap Report 6/24/10
By Tom Evans
Yo… Splendid day for climbing today. High clouds obscured the sun all day and the temps were very cool. The Bridge was mostly deserted as the climbers are climbing or gone. There is not much going on up on the Captain. So the report is pretty thin today.
Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!
Leo Houlding’s Project: Leo and Jason Pickles, left the Bridge this morning headed for a ground up on the long standing project on the far east side of the rock. He climbed the first 4 pitches rapidly in the afternoon and the climbing isn’t much to look at so no pics posted here. Tomorrow should bring the better rock into play and some good shots.
Zodiac: The “Team that wouldn’t bail”, Jon and Lynn, is going up, up, up! I watched them climb the Nipple and MOZ today. Still not speedy, but not too slow to take advantage of the long hours of daylight. They are most likely going to bivy at the start of the pitch to Peanut tonight, and climb off tomorrow. They could use some fashion advice!
Worst Dressed climber of the Day, leading the Nipple pitch.
Finishing the MOZ pitch in mid afternoon.
Nose: The Nose is crowded in the three pitch area of the Great Roof and no where else. A mixed team made a run up to Dolt for the exercise and were gone down by late afternoon.
Higher, the two man team of Lee and partner, hoping for a two day ascent are now on the 3 day plan. I last saw them leading the Great Roof at 5pm. Fortunately the weather is mild and they most likely are not having water problems.
Below them is a team of two who are hauling kit and will stay at Camp 4 tonight.
Below them is the “blue barrel” team who spent the night on Dolt and were last seen doing the King Swing around 5pm. They may bivy in the Grey Bands below Camp 4.
Mixed team running to Dolt.
Death blocks litter the Grey Bands traverse.
Second, pulling the kit out of the usual sticking spot, at the base of the Boot.
Camp 4, still crumbling after all these years!
Muir: I did see a mixed couple on the Muir traverse this afternoon. They are moving smartly along and, judging from their kit, will go for the Muir itself.
Muir Traverse.
Freerider: I did see Madeline and Kate climbing the corners to the Salathe Roof and then traverse around the corner to the finishing Freerider pitches. It looked like Mike hanging out shooting some shots of the girls.
Salathe Roof complex and Freerider Traverse.
Scenic from the Past.
View from Washburn Point.
In other news: I talked to an old geezer climber, 60 years of age, who is going on the Nose tomorrow, with another geezer in hopes of raising the age record for elderly climbers doing NIAD‘s. More tomorrow as the story develops! Another team is going for Zodiac tomorrow. The season seems to be closing out, even thought the weather, the usual culprit, is cooperating! I will soon be ending the Report but will stay on several days to shoot some more and have a little time off to enjoy the Valley.
So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 24th day of June, 2010.
Bye, Tom
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Too bad Mikey ruined your
Too bad Mikey ruined your shot of Madaleine and I! ahh well, he made some really good photos! Tom, nice work as always.
Tom, The guys in the Muir are
Tom,
The guys in the Muir are Melisa and ?. We saw them last Monday while descending from the Freeblast.
Javier
The 'team that wouldn't
The 'team that wouldn't bail'
They are always the most fun to watch because they are working hard to get it done.
Cheers,
Doug
AMEN!
AMEN!
I. C. Kang is right, Tom.
I. C. Kang is right, Tom. Olmstead Point is on the Tioga Road near Tenaya Lake. Your photo was taken at Washburn Point. Oooops! Best, Gene
REPLY: Thanks Gene....nice to have someone watching my back! Your chairs are still here and getting used daily!
I really enjoy reading your
I really enjoy reading your reports. It makes my mind wander out of this office, across the atlantic and all the way to El Capitan. Thanks!!
- The Norwegian
Hi..Uncle Tom.... Most of my
Hi..Uncle Tom.... Most of my friends returned to Korea... Korea is like a big furnace because of World Cup Soccer game.... I have a dream drink Cobrassssss and chatting with you...for next year... By the way.I have a Question when i see the photo"Vieww from Ohmstead Point"... when i saw Half Dome from Ohmstead Point, it stood opposite side...in my memory...Am i wrong? I.C.Kang who has poor memory....
REPLY: Well my good friend I hate to tell you but you are wrong. Half Dome faces roughly North thus the Shadow on the NWFace in the morning. In all shots from Ohmstead point it faces to the left.
OH NO!!! I am wrong! You are right my friend... I have the wrong name for the view point... as Gene points out below.... thanks for the correction guys!
Go Jonathan and David! Oregon
Go Jonathan and David! Oregon folk on the nose (staying on camp 4). Seeing them helps motivate to get down there!
Tom, I know exactly what
Tom,
I know exactly what you're talking about-its all about the colors. Bright colors look better out there and on the screen. Yeah, Jon is climbing with his wife's uncle, Lynn. Wish I was out there with the perfect weather and the lack of crowds. I pulled my shoulder last Oct hiking off the Nose and my buddy dislocated his a few months back so no walls for now. Take care. Phil
I know that colors do add to
I know that colors do add to the pictures however, I like to say it is not what a person drives (like a fancy car) but what drives a person. Like wise you could say it is not the cloths on the man but the man in the cloths!
Thanks Tom! Great photos!!
Thanks Tom! Great photos!!
Thanks for the update Tom,
Thanks for the update Tom, Keep shooting my boy Jon of "The Team that Wouldnt Bail." Looks like he won worst dressed climber of the day, but then again, I dont pick my friends for their fashion sense. Keep it coming. Phil-Redlands
REPLY: Phil it is about the colors for me because the shots look so much better when climbers are colorful.... plus.. well dressed climbers climb better! Its true!! Glad your boy is doing well on the Capt. Do you know who his partner is? Hey Phil... I live in Crestline, so we are kind of neighbors!
Tom
His partner is his wife's
His partner is his wife's uncle. His name is Lynn Robison and he is from Bullhead City Az.
Scenic For All Times, eh,
Scenic For All Times, eh, Tom? I hauled a barrel up El Cap once.....Worked pretty well, except for the "jutting lip". That thing sticks on everything. Cheers, man. Skully
REPLY: I remember that one and I have a nice pic of you and one eyed Scottie with the Barrel in the parking lot when you just got down. Good times. Scott comes around now and then and is in a nursing program and is out of teaching. He looks the same. Thin and fit... I hate him for that!! Tom