ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/22/16

By Tom Evans

Yo… Well…I gotta tell you that it is getting hot now.  Summer seems to be upon us, not just date wise, but weather wise too.  Not many teams are on ElCap right now, so the report will be a bit short on variety… so I have thrown in some oldies to fill the gap.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

1) VA/Trip:  Paul and Suzanne are making short work of the VA part of their route.  Here they are as the sun came on them this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Here Suzanne is lowering out the kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Later this afternoon Paul finished leading the VA part of the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Over on the NA Wall, the Tennessee boys crossed the Borderline Traverse via the often difficult pendulum.  Best to have a big hook slung from your left wrist, as a grappling hook instead of trying to grab the flakes with your hand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  After a time the pendulum was passed and they headed for the Black Dihedral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Later, as the light was soon to pass, the team hauled and cleaned to the first belay in the Black Dihedral.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  By a bit after 1 the men were in the shade for the rest of the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I didn’t get any good shots of Neil Chelton today, but the last I saw of him he was about to lead the last pitch on Gulf Stream.  We await the tale!

 

8)  There was only one team on the Nose today and they went from ECT, did the King Swing, and were headed to the Gray Bands as I was departing this afternoon.  They bailed later in the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  I did spot a party out west, on the early pitches of Lurking Fear.  I normally don’t shoot that climb but every now and then I spot someone on the edge and get the shot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Here is a shot of the arête between the Nose and Muir Dihedrals.  I have long thought of climbing that arête and have even tried to get someone to do the work it would take to finish Mediterrano, via that arête.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK…HERE COME THE OLDIES!  Most came off old slides I copied recently.

11)  Bob Austin’s hands after 6 days on the Nose… late 90’s maybe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Alexander Huber climbing the Black Tower during their free climb of Zodiac… Early 2000’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Thomas Huber working the Great Roof in an early attempt to free the Nose, during the speed trials…Early 2000’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  Rob Miller doing the “stemming corner” while working the Muir for a free ascent… leading to the PreMuir route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Alexander Huber taking a break on the stance below Dolt Tower during the speed record efforts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16)  Random dudes on the edge of the Nose.  1990’s.  Or...maybe Lincoln and Josh during the Nat. Geo. filming for TV.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17)  I don’t recall this climbers name but he cruised the route solo.  Seen here on the Sawblade Flake on Shortest Straw…1990’s.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18)  Eirk Eriksson at the belay after the Carrot pitch on Tribal Rite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19)  The fast friends, Chris McNamara and Erik Sloan hanging at the Bridge in 2000.  Chris looks so young in this shot!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, on this Wednesday, the 22^nd day of June, 2016.

Capt. Tom…sweating it out in the ElCap Meadow…just for you!