ElCap Report 6/22/10

ElCap Report 6/22/10

By Tom Evans

Yo…. The weather still rules here in the Valley. The Teams are mostly moving up with several punters, bailing for nebulous reasons. The day started out very boring, with just a few routes being climbed at the moment, but picked up in the late morning. Honnold goes big on the Dome and the Cap!!  Read about it below!

The Trades are mostly empty and the Tourons are wondering where all the climbers are. I just tell them the truth…. The missing climbers are lowly Pukes who don’t know a good thing when they see it. Do you really think Red Rocks is going to be better than the Valley right now? What’s up with Squamish too….I hear it’s been pouring rain there for months! I can’t explain it…fricking climbers… whatever!

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: The Koreans should have topped out by now as they were seen on the next to the last pitch at 3pm with hours of light left.
























Korean climber, on his last morning on Zodiac, heads for Peanut Ledge.


Lower down, the surviving team, climbed the 5th and the short pitch above in an effort that took many hours …. Bail now and save yourselves!

The North Carolina boys bailed from the top of two. Another team bailed yesterday. Like the lyrics to a stupid song say.. “Two out of three ain’t bad”! Name that Tune! So now is the time to step up and do the Zod!

Mescalito: Luke and Jason did make the Bismarck Ledge for the bivy after a long day of climbing. I shot Luke leading the Bismarck itself and the pitch above later. They are moving a bit more slowly today, probably because of the big push yesterday.  Frankie and Johnny bailed.

























Luke tackles the Bismarck.  Or maybe the other way around!


Nose: The two wall style teams topped out this afternoon. The rest of the route above Sickle is now empty.


Alex Honnold drove up this morning, and was eating a leisurely breakfast, when I went over to look at his new van interior. It looked pretty cool all pimped out!  He casually mentioned having just done the Reg on the Dome in a sporty 2:09, and was about to go on the Nose to finish the link-up. That time is the NEW solo record on the route. We chatted a while, as he finished breakfast and talked to some of the guys.  Later, he walked off to the Nose, with a considerable rack and a rope. He muttered something about having read Han’s book about speed climbing last night and was eager to see how the roped solo stuff would work for him. He wandered off around 10:30 and I soon saw him in the Stovelegs, carrying all his gear and a light pack, but 3rd classing everything. He did pull on a cam from time to time but didn’t break out the rope until the King Swing, which he did well. The next time it came out was on the Great Roof when he actually climbed like a roped soloer would. It was typical Hondo climbing…almost looked casual.. never rushed… cruising along. I last saw him at start of the Alcove pitch around 4pm. There, he ran into one of the wall style parties and another on the last pitch.  He spent some time chatting with the team climbing to the Alcove, seemingly unconcerned about the time going by.   I didn’t see him end the climb but Dave Turner said he talked to him and that he had done a 6 hour climb of the Nose. The total time, from the touching of the Dome and the tree atop the Cap, was a bit over 11 hours, a new record for the link up!! Cool stuff to watch.

























Alex walking off to the Nose, after crushing the Dome.


























Hondo third classing above Dolt.
























More third classing.

























Pancake Flake was a walk up and he did use a couple of hand hold pieces on the 11C part.




























Taking a look into the Changing Corners.




Sunkist: Brian and Ted are almost done with the route now and will be off tomorrow. Nice looking route!

























Early morning nailing on Sunkist.

























Cleaning, late in the day, on Sunkist.


Freerider: Kate and Madeline climbed to the Ear and then did the Monster crack in the afternoon. The thing was a full on chimney for the slender Kate but Madeline got the full off width treatment when she did it!
























Madeline meets the Monster.



Mystery pitch of the Day!   Name that pitch!    Ok an easy one for you Pukes… harder is identifying the climber! The climber himself is DQed from the mystery!






























In other news: The weather is so good and the rock is so empty! Well what can I say that I haven’t said before to encourage you to get your sorry ass here to climb the Captain? Andy Kirkpatrick arrived today, to solo something on the Cap. I missed him at the bridge late in the afternoon.

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 22nd day of June, 2010.

Later, Uncle Tom

Wow - great photos and news.

Wow - great photos and news. Keep up the fine woik.

Thanks for your awesome

Thanks for your awesome report on The Valley. We all know how magical this place is, but it takes incredibly special individuals to show us. When the two come together, amazing things happen. Thank you, Alex, for leading the way for the next generation. I predicted a gifted individual like Alex for the future of climbing. I'm looking forward to many more amazing feats from this guy, rock climbing's top dog, in my opinion. I'm not trying to start an argument and I've only been a rock climber for 23 years, so what would I know anyway.

Keep it up Alex and thanks again, Tom.


WOW... congrats to Alex!!!

WOW... congrats to Alex!!!

so glad i met him in person a

so glad i met him in person a couple weekends ago! he is a super down to earth guy and what an awesome badass climber he is!!!

I have to admit that I am now

I have to admit that I am now officially a full on Tom Evans junkie ... can't get enough ... (especially sitting here at my desk workin' my "mouse" hand ...
-- Tim B

You know calling people

You know calling people punters for bailing....from the bridge....is bad form. maybe they are friends of yours and you're just giving them a hard time? I hope thats it. Your reports are to good and entertaining to dip to something that low.
REPLY:   Read the Disclaimer.... this is entertainment only... taken very lightly.... it is a tradition here in the valley to rib people about bailing.... it isn't serious, it isn't bad form.  I have bailed more than most myself and I don't whine about some one poking a little fun at me.  Tom

"He muttered something about

"He muttered something about having read Han’s book about speed climbing last night and was eager to see how the roped solo stuff would work for him." Classic! Alex is phenomenal: what a great human spirit.

Pow! cheers, Skully

cheers, Skully

Wow! Half Dome and the

Wow! Half Dome and the Nose.



Sweet report!

Sweet report!

Tom: A big thanks for sharing


A big thanks for sharing the history of Big Wall climbing as it being made. Alex Honnold is amazing!

Thanks from just another lame cubicle puke.


Song band answer:

Song band answer: Meatloaf
REPLY:  Nice one!!!   but what is the song... Meatloaf is the artist.

Paradise by the dashboard

Paradise by the dashboard light

Bad ASS!!!! Alex... the best

Bad ASS!!!!

Alex... the best to ya!!!

Thanks Tom

Great Report

Mindblowing! Alex is the

Mindblowing! Alex is the man!

Tom, you are the man too - incredible that you are putting up history like this for us pukes to see!!!!

oops, didn't read the

oops, didn't read the caption...lol

haha, thats me on the

haha, thats me on the Lightning Bolt Roof, Fall 2008. I was on that one with Brian who just soloed Tribal and is on Sunkist. Great Partner. Thanks for the memories.

Signed, Lambone
Couch Puke

Way to go Alex Cheers Russ

Way to go Alex