ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/21/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The nice days continue here at the Bridge. The Wall is pretty empty but good climbing is going on all day long. Most of my Korean climbing friends have left now but there is still one team representing, on the wall. A moderate breeze up high is the only distraction for the teams, in other wise perfect wall climbing conditions. There seems to be a continuing shortage of teams starting out on the routes, as other destinations are taking their toll. Why would you want to bail out of the Valley in perfect conditions? The high country is nice, of course, but the warm summer days are not yet in evidence up high. I will hang on here for as long as there are interesting climbs to be shot and stories to be told.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you… unique in all the world!

Zodaic: This top 10 climb on the Cap is once again bringing them in. The Korean team of two climbed the Nipple and MOZ while I was still watching and most likely will try to get the next one before settling in for the night. Off tomorrow for these first timers!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Doing the ElCap lie-down on Zodiac’s most famous.  Notice... no stick!  A lot of taller climbers still use a stick here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Cleaning the Nipple pitch in puffy weather.

　

Lower down a team of two, who fixed yesterday, blasted on the route. I watched them do the third, which took several hours…not a good sign. ;(

Below them a team of two first time lads from North Carolina fixed two pitches. I talked with them yesterday and what they lack in experience I hope they make up for in determination.

Mescalito: Luke and Jason are moving steadily along on this top 5 route. They were making a run for the Bismarck Ledge this afternoon and could make it as this is the longest day of the year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Luke wondering where the hell the route goes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

Late afternoon, in the deep shadows, finds the lads pushing hard for the Bismarck.

 

Frankie and Johnny are here, with fabulous shirts, to do this route. You will be seeing a lot of them in the coming days.

　

Nose: The two wall style teams from yesterday motored along above camp 4 today heading toward Camp 5 and possibly higher this afternoon. Lower down a team was messing around in the Legs but had no bags and seemed a bit short on talent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Pancake flake fun, in the afternoon, on the great Nose Route.

　

Sunkist: The boys, Brian and Ted are in the good stuff now. Ted lead a long pitch this afternoon way up high on the Headwall. It looked really impressive! The belays are cold and the leads hot!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Ted cleaning early in the morning on Sunkist.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

First light on Sunkist.   How's that rope management workin for ya boys?!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Ted, after a long difficult lead, and the route above… yes, it goes up that thin crack!

　

Golden Gate: I watched Tobias climb the A5 Traverse this afternoon, which he dusted off convincingly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Zach belays while the nearly invisible Tobias shreds the A5 Traverse.

　

Freerider: The girls have been turned loose on this great ElCap free way. Madeline and Kate walked up the Freeblast this morning and I was lucky enough to be out west when Madeline did the Hollow Flake pitch, with the 90 foot down climb and all. She worked at it in the warm sun and did it without too much sweat…it looked more awkward than difficult.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Madeline in tight in the Hollow Flake.

　

In other news: The Bridge was deserted all day. A couple of climbers stayed for short visits and soon departed. The Tourons were very scarce. That made for some extra time for me to shoot from some of the places I don’t get to enough. Leo Houlding stopped by and is getting ready to push his long term project, on the SE Face, from the ground in a few days. Andy Kirkpatrick is showing up in a few days to do a solo on the SE Face. The cavers from two years ago are due in soon with their long line to do some rappin and juggin over the big drop. I haven’t seen EE or Mike but figure they are around the corner and probably finished Lost World today anyway.

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 21^st day of June, 2010.

Hasta la pasta,

Tom