ElCap Report 6/18/2015

ElCap Report 6/18/15

By Tom Evans

Yo… We had Bluebird skies today, that kept the heat up on the Cap.  There are still not very many climbers on the wall at the moment so you have the pick of any route you would like to climb.  Later in the day the air quality got bad and it was difficult to shoot without huge air swirls and haze showing up in the shots.  I was done by 2:30pm.  Also, due to weekend traffic do not expect a report on Saturday!

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac saw the Korean Alpine Club team reach Peanut Ledge early this afternoon.  Here they are starting out in the morning.





























2)  Later in the morning the sunlight came to do its work on the team.






























3)  Sea of Dreams:  I stopped by my early morning shooting spot to get this one of Andy Kirkpatrick, as he carefully worked his way along the infamous “Hook or Book” pitch. 





























4)  Later in the morning I got this shot of Andy near the end of the pitch.  This pitch is considered the psychological crux of the route but not the technical crux.






























5)  Just before I departed I got this one of Andy finishing cleaning as the sun departed from his part of the wall for the day.































6)  Nose:  A very speedy NIAD team was here when I first saw them and move quickly on their way.  Here is the pitch into Camp 4.






























7)  NIAD team cleaning the Great Roof….Love the pants!!






























8)  Lower down a junk yard has opened for business on ECT.  If you have plans for the Nose, you might factor in the takeover of ECT by the Real Nose team.  Ask them for a beer!






























9)  Steve and Heather Schneider have arrived to add some class to the Real Nose effort. Steve is seen here getting ready to jug and haul kit to ECT and join the junk show there.






























10)  Muir:  Ben Shackelford (blue shirt)and  Ryan Stickland are moving along well.  Here they are early in the day a couple pitches above the Gray Bands.






























11)  In the afternoon the Muir team reached the so called “slab” and later started the “Nutting” or “Stemming” pitch, depending on your style of climbing… aid or free.





























12)  Lower down at the so called “crossroads” this team appeared this morning.  3D or Muir?





























In other news:  I talked to Matt Stanich a few moments ago, about his difficulties over the past couple of days, and his subsequent rescue.  He is still unable to close his hands more than about 30% of normal.  He was very disappointed not to be able to finish the route on his own.  He climbed very well until the problem with his wrists/hands immobilized him.  It is inconceivable that any solo climber would just give up, with a couple of easy pitches to the top.  He did what he could and took a day off to see if he could work through the problems.  Unfortunately, he was not able to do so and had to call a rescue.  Good call Matt…no need to try something crazy when you are unable to even clip a biner onto a sling.

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 18th day of June, 2015.



They are Daniel Joll and Gabriel Mazur(in those Euro pants!). Just over 11h for the Nose.

"Steve and Heather Schneider

"Steve and Heather Schneider have arrived to add some class to the Real Nose effort"

No love for the junk show, eh Tom?

Muir team

The team on the Muir wall are Ryan Strickland (green shirt) and Ben Shackelford (blue shirt). Thank you for the updates and photos!


Thanks for the information!!!  Tom