ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/17/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… The killer weather continues to delight and climbers are stepping up to climb their dream routes. Very quiet at the Bridge today as the Touron traffic has dried up for the moment. Not many climbers in evidence either…must be out climbing. The Big Trades continue to dominate the scene, as do the Korean Teams. I will be here for about two weeks more so if you are getting used to these reports every day, enjoy them while you can!

Today’s ElCap Report … written just for you…unique in all the world!

Plastic Surgery Disaster: Big Andy and Skiy have saddled up for this very rarely done, Eric Kohl route. Might be a little wet up high men, but it will be scary all the way! I saw them fixing a couple this morning and didn’t pay much attention this afternoon.

Lunar Eclipse: This is, I believe, the last of the Korean Team Extreme Riders still on the rock. They continue to get the pitches done in a calm, methodical manner. I’m loving the shooting!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

Early morning finds the Koreans on the job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Climbing out of the beautiful, White Circle, one of the sweetest features on the SE Face.

　

Zodiac: Pierce and Steven are moving along smoothly after a bivy at the start of the MOZ pitch. They were headed to Peanut as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

　

Steve and Pierce talking it over at the bivy this morning.

　

Lower down, Eric, the solo, somehow got a jump on me last evening and climbed past the Black Tower undetected. He moved into the White Circle today and had finished the center pitch as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Eric, throwing a salute to the Old Captain, while climbing in the White Circle.

　

Lower yet a team of two Koreans appeared and climbed to the third later in the afternoon. They look a little on the slow side but it is early yet.

Lost in America: The three man team climbed off this afternoon. Good on you Boys!

Tangerine Trip: The two man team, high on the route, will be getting off tomorrow. They have had a routine ascent thus far.

Lower down, Chris is moving right along and appears to be having no problems thus far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Chris, finishing up the Slab pitch, early this morning.

　

Mescalito: The Montreal Posers have evacuated the route and the real climbers start in the morning.

New Dawn: The four man team, we have been enjoying seeing shots of, cleared the top early in the afternoon about the same time as the other Korean team on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

The end of the Dawn Wall!

　

Nose: The Nose had what I counted to be 4 NIAD teams and 3 wall style crews. My posse boys, Aaron and Walker started late and blew past everyone in front of them having the route above the Roof to themselves.  They passed Conrad Anker and partner Scott on Texas Flake.

I don’t know their time but it looked to be pretty fast!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Aaron looking for the passing lane, above Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

 

Aaron leads, a short fixed Walker at the Glowering Spot, up the pinnacle that forms Camp 6, on the Nose, late in the afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leading above Dolt Tower in the morning.

　

Lower down the other NIAD’s were looking a little slow and they will have a long climb out in the dark most likely. The wall teams are moving right along without any real problems thus far. I also noticed the Highway workers vest climbing to ECT late in the afternoon!  Here is a wall style team on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

　

Getting some momentum on the King Swing, shot from way out west. I like this shot!

　

Shield: Scott and John made Chicken Head this afternoon and just might make a run for the top. It looked very windy and cold up there today.

Another team made the left turn at the Muir junction and went to the base of the Roof as I departed. A lime green shirt caught my attention.

Muir to Sunkist: Brian and Ted (Ted from the old Lance, KFC, Ted team) were seen climbing the lower Muir this afternoon in some stiff heat. They were moving along fine.

Magic Mushroom: This team, touting a guarantee of 90% success is nowhere to be seen thus far!

Freerider: I did see Mason taking a run at this route today but don’t know if he sent it… he has a buddy belay/jug slaving for him. I knew but forgot who it was.

Lost World: Basking Bob is moving up the route way out there in the land of the hot slabs. I got this shot from the Bridge, although I have others taken from out west, I liked this one best. EE and Mike are headed out that way too…. Something about Squeeze Play… I will keep you posted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

　

　

Basking Bob, working hard out west!

　

In other news: Very quiet day here as the climbers are mostly climbing and the Tourons are all looking at the waterfalls today. It was nice!

It is late and the Lakers have just finished winning the championship so the Bar is pretty empty and I need to wrap this up….

So that’s the way it is, on ElCap, for this the 17^th day of June, 2010.

Later Tom