ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/16/13

By Tom Evans

Yo… Splendid weather continues to dominate the late part of the season.  I’ve been shooting a lot of shots these days, but most of the good ones are in the morning or evening, as the midday light is very severe.  The Nose had a lot of action on it but all the SW Face routes are empty at the moment… Hello?  This is the time to get up on the Shield, Salathe, 3D or anything else that suits you. 

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  All the recent teams have topped out on this great route.  I did spot Steve Bate climb and clean the first pitch today.  He recently did the route with Big Andy Kirkpatrick a week or so ago but wants to solo it now.  I didn’t mention it before, but he has no  peripheral vision, because of his Retinitis Pigmentosa.  It slowly robs your vision and leads to blindness or extremely narrow tunnel vision.  He is doing this climb to bring attention to the disease and is sponsored by Sherpa Clothing.  We wish him all the best on this ascent.

1)  Steve looking proud on Zodiac’s first pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SSPO:  Ottawa Doug is putting the pitches behind him in good order.  He is presently doing two a day on some difficult rock.

2)  Morning shot of him at the belay on pitch 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Afternoon finds Doug in the deep shade that is so appreciated,  this time of year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nose:  This greatest of ElCap Routes, has a lot of people on it but, is not crowded.  Remember the guy with the stick the other day?  Well he unloaded it today in, of all places, the Stovelegs!  That ain't no stick, Son... that's a POLE!!!

4)  CONGRATULATIONS, STOVELEG STICKER’S!!  YOU HAVE GOTTEN THE MUCH MALIGNED… STICK OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris Bevins set off this morning at 5am to have a go at a solo NIAD.  He has looked good all day and is making good time.

5)  Here he is, just after the King Swing, approaching the party of three, strong climbers, from yesterday, Jared Stiles, Justin Cory, and Scott Rice.  We enjoyed their sign, which flew most of the day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Higher up, Chris negotiated the nasty Grey Bands Traverse, arguably the worst part of the route.  Certainly no fun for a solo!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  The Blue Bag team from yesterday, Mike Hannig and Greg Dooley, from FT Collins CO, climbed above Camp 4 this morning and I got this shot of them turning the Great Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Higher up I shot them leading the nasty pitch into Camp 5.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Way higher a team climbed toward the last pitch around 3pm.  They are shown here just reaching the Alcove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Lower down several teams were in the Legs including this team of three Austrians, Andy(yellow pants), George, and Reini.  They moved well all day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  A mixed team, Nacho and Majo from Argentina, climbed well today and were seen here turning the Roof in mid afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Several solo climbers are hoofing up to the base these days and we expect some good climbing from them.  Two more Korean teams will do Zodiac and the Trip.  

 

12)  Piton Pete is about to start on the Waterfall route… unfortunately his ride is not about to … start that is…. So he enlisted the Team Extreme Riders crew to give him a push this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 16^th day of June, 2013.

Later,

ElCap Tom