ElCap Report 6/15/10

ElCap Report 6/15/10

By Tom Evans

Yo… Continued brilliant weather is blessing all those who are working on the Big Stone. Several, not so often done routes, are in the offing these days but the King still reigns supreme. This is the time to strike if you have any aspirations of climbing ElCap before Autumn. Soon the summer heat and bad air will cook your skin and fry your lungs…. I know, from personal experience, how debilitating it will be in July and August.

On that pleasant note….

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you …unique in all the world!

Lunar Eclipse: The Korean Lunar Team is back on the rock and have moved up a couple more pitches. While watching them climb I noticed a rope that goes horizontally from the start of Zodiac’s 5th all the way over to the 5th on Eagles Way…what’s up with that? Leo is that your handy work?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waiting to move bags up in the dark and dank on Lunar Eclipse.

 

Zodiac: Bridge Rats, Steven and Pierce are on this route and climbed past the bolt ladder pitch to the start of the Black Tower pitch this afternoon.  They bivied at the end of the pitch.   They should have the route to themselves, unless Eric cuts in the afterburners and somehow speeds past them.   I don't think so!

Lost in America: The three man Korean team doggedly continues up the route and had joined with ZM by late afternoon. These men are tough guys who have gotten better with each passing day. They should be off tomorrow!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another early morning start on LA.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First light on Lost in America.  Hopeful partners watch anxiously as the leader tackles the crux pitch.

 

Tangerine Trip: The two guys from yesterday have blasted on the route and were finishing the 5th when I left around 3pm. Nice shirt Bro!!  They bivied at the top of 7.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Black Cat asks, “why did you haul that kit up there instead of just lowering it over from my belay?”

 

Lower down a solo woman, Chris Chan, who soloed the Shield last Fall,  has established her presence on the direct start to the route. Kate and Kitty talked to her a couple of days ago and their assessment was that she looked like a real solo climber.   She was seen on the 5th pitch at dusk.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chris Chan getting it done on the Trip in mid afternoon.

 

Mescalito: Strange goings on over there. The Montreal boys, a team of three now, from the report a few days ago, spent the night at the top of the first two nights ago, and the second last night! They were climbing the third when I saw them this afternoon…. Ahhhh Boys… this plan will never work as it is being executed!  You are go for throttle up!  I don't think this is a team of serious ElCap climbers.

Another team of two has decided to go for the route too and are planning to blast by the inert Montreal lads tomorrow!

New Dawn: The Korean team of four is putting the pitches behind them and have fixed to the start of the roof system. They nighted on Wino Tower last night and always seem to have a leader out. Keep up the good work. Team Extreme Riders rule!!  They bvied at the start of the corners leading to the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sorting gear on Wino Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leading the pitch above Wino.. Notice the Bismarck Ramp leading to the ledge.

 

Nose: I looked today but didn’t see any sign of the Korean lads team, so I assume they climbed off late yesterday. Not to worry, the route is still pretty full of climbers. Several parties of Korean climbers worked above ECT today and will stay at C4 and C5 most likely. One team of two, climbed above C5 this afternoon and may stay at C6 or make a run for the top.

Lower down a team of two speedy lads with no real baggage climbed over Dolt and on to ECT and kept going. I heard they were just out for a run to ECT and might go higher if they were sending fast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Past the King Swing early in the morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Speeding lads  heading to ElCap Tower early in the afternoon.

 

A  team of four climbed from ECT this morning and did the KS in early afternoon.   They may be the team of 4 Germans, one of whom stopped by the bridge the other day.  We had a large crowd of Tourons and climbers watching the leader do the Swing and although he made valiant runs and lunges he was rejected several times. The crowd was yelling wildly at him! Seems like Tourons really get into the King Swing and always yell their lungs out and cheer when the thing is successfully done. He made it after a time and gave the thumbs up on Eagle Ledge, indicating that he had heard the cheering!

The route is empty below the Boot at the present time, but I hear some teams are going out tomorrow for NIAD climbs.

 

Shield: Scott Stowe and John Wells climbed past Grey ledges and I spotted them bivied over the roof pitch.

 

Magic Mushroom: A couple of lads have blasted for this route.

Sunkist: A team of two is lined up to do this seldom but very worthy route.

Salathe: A couple of teams are making runs at the lower part of Freerider tomorrow but I saw no one on the route today.

In other news: The Bridge was thin on Tourons and thick on climbers today, which is a good thing! Pete and Mark made it down from Pace Maker and a Nose team arrived at the same time to enjoy the pleasures of that first cold beer! Several “old timers” came by too and a good time was had by all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of the Rats at the Bridge this afternoon, including Ben Flintstone!

So that’s the way it is for this the 15th day of June, 2010.

So long…. Tom

Great first light shot on

Great first light shot on Lost in America.

-John Fine

1st light on LIA

what happened to the 1st light pic?
 
Still there!
 

Happy Birthday! U R the

Happy Birthday!
U R the Best!
Queen of the Bridge

hy Tom. Now I´m sitting on

hy Tom.

Now I´m sitting on the other side of the report again...
good job!!!

What is with Bob?
The Solo from next to lurking fear.

thanks for the Report

Stefan / Austria

Hey Tom, Lovin' the reports

Hey Tom,

Lovin' the reports as always. Early morning shots on LIA are fantastic. Glad to hear that team is steaming ahead. Neat shot of the pitch above wino tower with the bismark off to the side.

Thanks,

Doug

Huge congrats to the Korean

Huge congrats to the Korean youth team.

Hi Tom. Korean Youth team

Hi Tom. Korean Youth team was reached on the top of Nose at evening and return in the sunny side. They are visit you tomorrow. Please make picture for them.
Thank you so much your work.
Sincerely yours,

Guyoung Kang

Thanks Tom!!! greets from

Thanks Tom!!!

greets from Holland

Niek

I just want to Know Looking

I just want to Know

Looking at my Zodiac Topo and having done the route just trying to figure out where is the Direct Fart variation

Russ

Thanks Tom. Information about

Thanks Tom.
Information about Korean youth team. They may be sleep at sunny side today.

Thanks and Aloha Tom! I enjoy

Thanks and Aloha Tom!
I enjoy daily but fail to give thanks as much.

Aloha,
wil

Anyone see elmar and zac from

Anyone see elmar and zac from one tree hill?