ElCap Report 6/14/2015

ElCap Report 6/14/15

By Tom Evans

Yo… Perfect, cloudless weather, on this beautiful day, in Yosemite.  Lots of routes being done but we need replacements asap, as most teams are nearing the top.  Even the Nose is getting empty again.  We are running out time in the spring climbing season, so you need to get here soon, unless you like climbing in a blast furnace!

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

Zodiac:  The TER team climbed off this morning, after more than a week on the route.  For some reason they adopted the “Piton Pete Wall Camping Style” and spent several mornings sleeping late. 

1)  Lower down the Korean Alpine Club Team climbed the 5th pitch and was moving up to the Black Tower belay, as I departed, around 2:30 this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Trip:  The TER team climbed the rest of the corner pitches today and was seen finishing the 1st bolt ladder this afternoon.  Off tomorrow!  Here the second is getting the morning sun, which is normally welcomed, but not on a warm day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Here, the TER team is on the first bolt ladder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Lower down, the solo, Matt Stanich, put some pitches behind him today and is seen here on the first lead of the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Sea of Dreams:  Big Andy Kirkpatrick, got his kit hauled and by the time I arrived he was leading the 3rd pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Fortunately the Sea goes into the shade around 2pm so Andy had the rest of the day in shade.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Over on Brad and Mason’s project, Mason was seen climbing the ridiculously steep overhang, on the left side of the Heart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  Higher up, Mason worked this section of the upper crack for a time… I didn’t see if he got it or not.  Brad was talking on the phone to his girlfriend most of the pitch!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Pace Maker:  The team is getting up high on this seldom done aid route.  Here Kenny is tending the belay early this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Higher up Hunter is setting up the new belay.  Hopefully their water supply will last through these warm days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Over on the Nose, I spotted these guys hauling kit to the stance at the Jardine cutoff. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  These well dressed teams from yesterday passed the Jardine and King Swing respectively and are seen here merging in the Gray Bands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  High on the Nose there was a line of teams that climbed off during my shooting.  This team was at the back of the line but has plenty of time to get down by dark.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In other news:  Not much other news, at least that I know of at the moment.

So that’s the way it is, for this Sunday, the 14th day of June, 2014.

Later, Telephoto Tom

I'm Not On The Nose

Hey Tom. Dave Lane here at the shade and comfort of my table. We were to do it in a day. We started Sunday morning at 1245, it was hot already. We made descent time to sickle and i had completed the 1st. lower out off the anchor to make my way over to the stove legs. We had 6 ltrs of water total between us and one rope, after tough deliberation regarding the commitment level and the dread of the approaching sun we bailed before you could catch us and shame us.

Thanks Tom!! xo, Lib

Thanks Tom!!

xo,
Lib

Thanks Tom

Sitting on my arse in my cubical, I so appreciate your photos and narrative. Gas money donated! Keep 'em coming!

John