ElCap Report 6/11/2015

ElCap Report 6/11/15

By Tom Evans

Yo…Sweet weather has drawn the masses to the Nose and other trade routes.  Zodiac is loaded with Korean climbers, as that is a good route for new comers to get experience on.  The Nose is packed from the Great Roof down to the deck.  We did have a quick storm late this afternoon but it was gone as rapidly as it came in.  Lots of shots today… so … pay attention Cubicle Pukes it doesn’t get much better than this!

Today’s ElCap Report..written just for you..unique in all the world!

1)  Zodiac:  A two man team fixed a couple yesterday, and were off early to get on the route.  They were on the Black Tower as I departed around 3pm.  Here they are on the bolt ladder pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Higher on the route the TER team slept in until afternoon and were half way done with the MOZ pitch when I left.  Here is their camp beneath the MOZ.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  1pm and a leader is starting the Mark of Zorro pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a 5 man, Korean Alpine Club team, fixing on the route today and blasting day after tomorrow.

4)  Tangerine Trip:  The TER team was a bit slow getting to climbing but had done a couple by the time I left.  Here they are as the sun came on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Later in the day they were on the nice corner of the 8th pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  A two man team flashed up the Trip today… fast and efficient, they were on the first bolt ladder when I left.  Looks like a daylight ascent to me! Here they are on the 9th pitch as the sun came to them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Later in the day they were way up the route.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  ZM:  The solo Korean climber, Sang Woo Lee, is racing up the route.  He is surely the best climber on the SE Face at this time!  Here he is cleaning the 9 O’clock roof this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TOM'S SHOT OF THE DAY!!!

9)  Later Sang Woo lead the Sawblade Flake and is seen here cleaning the pitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Sang Woo cleaning higher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Real Nose:  Over on the Real Nose, Victor and Pete got some belay bolts up graded this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Nose:  The route is packed.  Here a climber does a power move up to the stance above Dolt Tower.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WTF OF THE DAY!!!

13)  STRANGE SPACE CREATURES INVADE THE NOSE!  Their antennas help them purify the air and vaporize slow parties blocking their way!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14)  High flying on the King Swing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15)  Shayna Brown is making a series of runs on the lower part of the Nose in hopes of a solo ascent later this season.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

16)  Big Freight hauling off Eagle Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

17)  This shot was taken later in the day… the pitch into ECT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

18)  Pace Maker:  Kenny and partner, Hunter (the well dressed one!) spent the day grinding up the slabs to the left of the Heart today.  It didn’t look like much fun!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

19)  Salathe/Freerider:  Mark Hudon getting the sun above Hollow Flake this morning.  The beat down came higher up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20)  A wall style team resting after doing the pitch above the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

21)  Out west on Never Never Land, Joe Marlay and Matt Lambert are seen here on the lower part of the route on their push on it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that’s the way it is, for this Thursday, the 11th day of June, 2015.

Later, Capt. Tom

WTF photo

Is possible that the antennas are a pair of GoPro 360º cameras?? This climbing video would be amazing!