ElCap Report 6/11/14

ElCap Report 6/11/14

By Tom Evans

Yo.. Hey the weather continues to be great up on the wall... a bit too hot on the Valley floor.  Not a lot of action on the cliff but the routes that are going are seeing some good teams on this today.  The internet I have been using has changed and it is very slow now... so I will get this report done and see what I can find for the next one.

Today's ElCap Report.... written just for you...unique in all the world!

1)  The final Korean team of Jong Moon, Cho...Kyung Gi, Cho... Jae Young, Ji...Myung Hee, Lee.. and Mi Soo, Choi, climbed off this afternoon. I got this shot early this morning as some of the team climbed above Peanut Ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  British hardman, Andy Kirkpatrick, and a couple of friends are here to do the Nose.  They fixed yesterday and are seen here leaving the top of Sickle ledge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Well Andy and the lads seemed to have stalled low in the Legs this afternoon and it didn't look like they were going to continue...Conference in the Legs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4) Miranda Oakley and partner, Josh McClure, did a NIAD today in good form and time.  Here she is in the EXACT Right Position to finish the King Swing. Change feet... then left foot to the corner at the rust spot ...then pull and you will be on Eagle Ledge!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Higher we see Miranda lowering out from the Great Roof as she was short fixed higher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  Meanwhile, over on the Shield, a team of 4 crack Austrian guides climbed over the roof today and onto the Headwall.  Here is the dance of the unsecured ropes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7)  Team Austrian climber making the scary and very exposed jug to the belay over the Roof.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

8)  The lower part of the Shield Headwall... not so inviting!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  The Salathe has a team of three on it at the moment.  Alice Ng and a couple of friends are lounging at the Spire this evening.  Here they are on the Ear this afternoon.  Ben Ditto and partner are doing Free Rider at the same time but no good shots of them today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Jim Reynolds is out there in the heat trying to solo Cosmos... not an easy task!  Long and difficult this route does not see many ascents.  Good luck out there Jim!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Keenan, Matt, and Jaysen made it down from Tribal Rite this afternoon and were in a mood to celebrate!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12)  Big rock fall off the Cap at 4:30am.  Lots of noise, rock and dust as you can see.  It was just to the right of the one in the Fall several years ago.  Greg Stock thinks it might have been larger than the Fall one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13)  Shot of me taken on my Eastern Caribbean cruise in Jan.  At the beach on St. Kitts, with the island of Nevis in the background.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So that's the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 11th day of June, 2014.

Later, Tom

Relief

My 16 year old son, Chance, sent The Nose with a partner last night. A big thanks to the Camp Kooch-I-Ching and Ridgway,CO High School climbing instructors for teaching him the skills necessary to achieve this feat. Can't wait to see some of Tom's great shots.
Kyle Ronemus