ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/11/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Warm, warm, warm today. Not much action on the Cliff today. Yesterday was BIG. The Colorado Girls, as you may have read in yesterday’s report, did in fact break the Woman’s speed record for the Nose. Go back and read about it. Also the Jtree Girls finished the route too. Pete and Mark finally made the top after too many days to count on one’s hands.

Plus the news came out about the dates for the Men’s record attempt for the Nose. June 13,14 are practice runs and the push for the record will be on the 17^th at, what will most likely be, an ungodly early start, so as to completely avoid the sun.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Shortest Straw: Matt Thomsen didn’t climb off last evening as planned but was on the top by late morning today. It was a nice upgrade solo for Matt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Matt catching the sun as an unidentified flying object, to the left, goes by, after blowing off the top of the rock.

　

Zodiac: The solo, John Selove, who was neck and neck with Matt climbed off just a couple of hours after he did. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  John Selove, climbing off Peanut Ledge.

　

Lower down, Dave Hutchison climbed from the Nipple’s end to the pitch below Peanut while I was there and will probably stay there for the night.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  A solo’s prerogative… start whenever you like! Dave taking it easy this morning.

　

Lower yet Kevin and Elliot, who fixed yesterday, blasted on the route today.

　

Lost in America: Steve and Larry are slowly moving up the route. It looked a bit on the warm side there today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Larry clearing the belay this morning. You may be wondering why I have all these shade shots of late. The glare is so bad in the sun that it is very difficult to see anything. So I have resorted to shooting in the shade.

　

New Dawn: Roger and Brad didn’t push to the top but stayed on the nice ledge two from the top. They were gone by 11am.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  One from the top on New Dawn.

　

Nose: I only saw one team on the route in the legs today… a Dolt run. I did spot another team through the trees but they are too low to identify. I think they are most likely Bill Sherman and pard, Jordan Ramey but I didn’t get a good look at them.

Freerider: James Lucas has been working the route, from time to time, over the past few weeks and appeared on it today with jug monkey Aaron Jones, for an attempt to free it from the deck. He look pretty solid on the parts I watched. He did have a little whipper on the reach to the Monster but went back and sent it. He was at the Teflon Corner when I lost sight of him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

6)  James and Aaron at the belay beneath the Ear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

7)  James making the move to the Ear’s notorious chimney.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

8)  James making the reach to the Monster.

　

In other news: Nice at the Bridge with few people of any kind showing up. Some guys set up a slack line across the river that no one could master. Where is Crobin Usinger when you need him?!!

The JTree Girls stopped by to get their shots and tell their story of climbing the Nose. They will have bragging rights for years to come down there!!

Jes and Quin, the new Woman’s Nose record holders, stopped by for a short visit. I talked with them for a while and I think they might give it another go later in the week, weather permitting. They would like to get it down into the 9’s somewhere to set a good standard for others to work on. As you can imagine, we are all pleased for this fine team of woman climbers from Colorado!

So that’s the way it is, for this Monday, the 11^th day of June, 2012.

I badly need a shower so I am out of here!!

Later Tom