ElCap Reports

ElCap Report 6/06/12

By Tom Evans

Yo… Great weather continues and the climbs are finally getting the attention they deserve! Lots of action on the rock today. Big news today…Alex Honnold climbed Mt. Watkins, the Nose, the Reg on the Dome, solo, in just 18 hours, starting at 4pm yesterday and finishing at 10:45am this morning. It was not a totally free ascent but the vast majority was climbed free. I am happy for him but mostly relieved that he made the climb safely.

Today’s ElCap Report…written just for you…unique in all the world!

Zodiac: Suddenly popular, the route is getting the blitz. A team climbed 3 today and fixed some ropes. The Korean team didn’t show today but should be up tomorrow. The disabled team climbed smartly today and were near the Circle when I left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1)  Disabled team at the Black Tower ledge this afternoon.

　

Straw: Matt Thomsen continued up the route today and was at the start of the 5^th pitch as I departed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2)  Matt, shot from way out west.

　

Iron Hawk: Mark had planned on being off this evening but I don’t think will quite make it unless he pushes hard and I doubt he has the gas to do that. Better safe than sorry applies here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3)  Mark looking at the 5.9 X mandatory free pitches ahead.

　

New Dawn: The French Canadian, Francis Perrault, will reach the top this evening. He has done a fine job on the route and I feel certain has reaped the rewards of an ascent well managed and climbed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4)  Francis, climbing above the Harding Roof, high on the route.

　

Nose: The Nose is packed… even the Piton Pete Show was there today and will be tomorrow too. Two NIADs were taking place today with the Colorado women, Jesse and Quin, leading the charge. They have not been above the Grey Bands before but climbed like old pro’s up there. No one even came close to catching them and I feel sure they will easily make a daylight ascent! With some more practice runs this team just might have a realistic shot at the woman’s record!

Dolt Tower was a hotel last night with all the teams staying there hitting the rock for another day. The team of Dominic and Corey stayed on ECT and were nice enough to let the two NIAD’s pass. They were headed to the Grey Bands when I left. The other NIAD was doing the Great Roof when I left.

I can’t really keep track of individual teams as they were jammed together for most of the day and all had to pass through Pete’s Show which was parked on Eagle ledge for most of the day. Pete helped some of the King Swingers finish the swing and they were able to stand on his ledges. All in all I don’t think he was a logistical problem, but more of an aesthetic one. The show moved on in the middle of the afternoon. The JTree Girls were a pitch below Dolt when I left and were making slow progress up the legs. Dolt for them tonight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5)  Everybody out! Teams leaving Dolt Tower this morning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

6)  Colorado woman meets the Show on Eagle after her KS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

7)  Colorado girls climbing out of Camp 5, shot from miles away!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

　

 

8)  Edge of the Nose from out west. Pete’s Show is in the Grey Bands while Dominic and Corey finish up the King swing.

　

Shield: Ben Doyle and “Burt” Bronson appeared on the route today. They somehow weathered the hard rain, in an unprotected area, and are moving along. Bronson lead the roof pitch and the long C1 up to the Groove. I didn’t stay long enough to see them do the Groove.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9)  Bronson on the vast expanse of the Shield. The wind and cold are always a challenge there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

10)  Ben and Bronson at the start of the Groove pitch.. Shot from Bridal Vail area.

 

 

Salathe/Freerider: The hordes have found these routes once again. I can’t tell who is who over there but several parties climbed from Hollow Flake to the Spire today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11)  Climber leading the pitch above the Ear this afternoon.

　

In other news: Not a lot of other news today. Lots of Tourons around and not so many climbers hanging out. Marc and Markus stopped by to hang out and tell their story of Tribal Rite. Good fun talking about it!

So that’s the way it is, for this Wednesday, the 6^th day of June, 2012.

Today we remember the many thousands of lives lost by all combatants in the D-Day landings in 1944. They live on in our hearts and minds.

Later, Tom